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bentoni

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Everything posted by bentoni

  1. Hello PeteAtkinson, I do 360 panoramas with a Nikon D810 and I use the Sigma 15mm. I measured where my 'No-Parallax_Point' is on my lens and it is 37.5mm from the rear of the lens. (where the lens mates flat against the camera body) I have attached a photo with the spot marked in red. To be clear, this is the point around which the camera/lens pivots to eliminate parallax. I hope this helps.
  2. I just bought a Sea&Sea MDX-D810 housing and find that the image through the stock viewfinder is very small. I had a Sea&Sea MDX-D700 before and the view seemed fine. Are there adjustments I can make, or replacement viewfinders that will make the image larger? Thank for any advise on this. Randall
  3. OK, how about $1200? It breaks my heart to do it, but I have reduced the price further.
  4. I have a Sigma 15mm FE lens on a Nikon D810. I want to get a mini dome port for it like the Zen DP-100, but I am told I would need to shave off the lens shade to get it to fit. Has anyone done this? Is it something I could do myself. If not, who can do this for me?
  5. I have rethought my asking price, and have reduced it to $1500. Thanks for looking.
  6. I am selling my Sea&Sea MDX D700 housing. It is #55 of 100. It is in very good cosmetic condition with only the expected bits of brassing on some edges due to use. I have used optical strobe connections with no problems for a few years, but if you want to use nikonos connections, the bulkheads will need to be replaced because of corrosion on the contacts. (Due to unseen drops of sea water, I assume) I will try to upload some photos. I paid $3700 originally in 2008. I am asking for $1900. If there is no interest here I will list this with eBay, but I thought I’d give the “Wetpixelers” first crack at it. You may email me with questions at rbenton@sacbee.com
  7. Thank you very much Tim! I am updating my website, and I want it to be accurate. Since I am not a biologist, I really appreciate your help with this. Thanks again. Randall Benton
  8. Can anyone tell me what kind of fish this is? I shot this in Bonaire. It appears to be a juvenile which makes identification a bit difficult for me. Thanks in advance for your expertise. Randall Benton
  9. Hello Triggerfish, I have used PTGUI with great results. It can be used to do the type of multi-photo panoramas such as your example. I use it to make 360 degree 'Virtual Reality' panoramas of topside spaces. For your application it is simple and automated. It can stitch together multiple (even handheld) images into one with ease. It also allows you to fine tune the result manually if needed. Here is a link to their website: http://www.ptgui.com/ Here is also a link to a website that contains a wealth of information about creating panoramas of all types: http://wiki.panotools.org/Main_Page I hope this helps, Randall
  10. Steve, I like all these suggestions. The beauty of Photoshop is that there are so many ways to skin a cat. I find that the simpler your corrections are, the more natural the results seem to look. (just my humble opinion) Anyway, I took a shot at your sample image, and have posted it below. I used the 'Hue, Saturation, Brightness' tool and with just the CYAN channel selected, I dragged the Saturation slider all the way to the left. Then I bumped up the 'MASTER' saturation about 15%. That's it. The manta is contaminated by CYAN, so by taking it out, your subject looks neutral, and the deep pure blue background will remain almost unchanged. This should work on most images, but the specific color of the background water can sometimes contain enough CYAN that you may need to tweek the results a little more than this. Or you can paint the original color back into the background with the 'History Brush' I hope this helps you.
  11. Max, How, exactly, are you saving the photoshop file? As a .psd? When you try to reopen it with photoshop, what happens?
  12. For whatever it's worth, I agree with bvanant. With the photo exhibits I've seen it appears that the 'standard' style is to sign the matte in pencil with numbering for limited editions if you are doing that. But in my opinion, a title seems a bit pretentious for a photograph. To my mind, a title implies that the artist had a statement to make, and created the art to fit it. The genesis of photographs is usually the opposite. I guess I liken titles to nicknames: (if I may borrow from Jim Rome) It's bad form to "self-gloss." Of course all of this is just my opinion. Randall
  13. Take a look at these two apps. Many of my workmates who use iPads heavily use PhotoGene Pro. It will work with RAW files, has most of the editing options you will likely need, allows for editing of metadata, and can then move the photo via ftp if needed. The other popular app for this purpose is Snapseed. I hope this helps. Randall
  14. As a press photographer, I am very proud to have won third place in the 'Nature' category of the World Press Photo competition recently. This is a very competitive competition with over 5,000 photographers entering from around the world. You can see my entry at the following link: http://www.worldpressphoto.org/awards/2013?category=54 and I have uploaded it here as well.
  15. I attached a 2-foot long metal plate to the bottom of the housing and held it down with a pair of ten pound sand bags. I prefocused and set the camera's intervalometer to fire every four seconds. I put the camera into the water where I could see several salmon congregating. Naturally the fish stayed away once the camera was in place. But I tried several locations, and was very patient. Eventually I managed to catch a few frames of salmon. I will try to attach the best three here. Thanks for all the advice, and I hope someone else can learn from my efforts as well. Randall
  16. I want to shoot salmon as they swim upstream in our local river. If I get into the water with my camera they never come close. I want to anchor my camera to the riverbed, and fire it remotely (or set an intervalometer to fire it) Has anyone done something like this? What's the best way to keep my camera from floating away with the river's current. I plan to be in approximately 12 inches of water, with mild current. Thanks for your advise in advance. Randall
  17. I did not know that. I actually bought this gear to use on the Nikon 17-35mm 2.8. It worked, but the fit was snug.
  18. I have a set of Sea&Sea focus gears for the Nikkor 105mm 2.8D lens. One gear is for manual focus, and the other is to switch the lens from Auto Focus to Manual Focus.bThey are used, but in great condition. They sell new for about $260. I am asking $150 for the pair.
  19. I have a set of Sea&Sea focus gears for the Nikkor 60mm 2.8D lens. One gear is for manual focus, and the other is to switch the lens from Auto Focus to Manual Focus.bThey are used, but in great condition. They sell new for about $200. I am asking $120 for the pair.
  20. Even if your exposure is just right, after about 15 feet of depth the sun just looks like a bright blob. If you get the exposure right, in shallow water the sun ball can exhibit better definition, with sharper 'rays' radiating out. In deeper water, I usually try to avoid the sun as an element for this reason. Just my humble opinion about the aesthetics, of course.
  21. Really? No one? I'm beginning to wonder of I should have passed on this prize and chosen the tote bag instead.
  22. I recently won a few days diving at Kosrae Ecolodge Resort. I have not been able to find much unbiased information about the diving there, or about the resort. Has anyone on this forum had experience with diving in Kosrae? I'd love to hear your opinions, and/or advice. Thanks Randall
  23. Thanks for the advice Larry. I was very apprehensive about starting this project for the first time, and I wanted everything to be done right. I left the shade on, and shortly after I got started I realized this was not brain surgery. My port looks like new again and I am ready for the next time.
  24. I searched the forums for this but turned up nothing. I am about to (gulp) resurface my acrylic Sea&Sea fisheye dome port using the MicroMesh kit. I want to know if it is possible to remove the shade from the port in order to reach the edges of the dome more easily. It looks like there are some screws that may allow me to do this, but I don't want to compromise the integrity of the port by doing something foolish that I cannot repair. Has anyone done this? Should I just proceed with the shade attached? I welcome all advice. Randall
  25. Over the years I have only sporadically tried to log dives. The earliest logbooks are long lost. More recent efforts have gotten water soaked. I really have no idea how many dives I have done. I could only guess. Not as many as you might think. There were several years that I did not dive at all as my two best dive buddies died. In the past twenty years my wife and I take a trip or two each year and that is about it. I wish I could dive more, but I live in Northern California and don't really care for the cold water here. Tropical water is expensive to reach.
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