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Everything posted by martys

  1. Nice! I've never seen a wolfie and octo in the same hole before. Great shot.
  2. Hey Marjo - I'm looking at the Great Stuff web site and they have many different products. Which is the one you used? The Big Gap Filler is the one listed as "triple expanding", the others only say "minimal expanding". thanks, Marty.
  3. So many warm water pictures in this forum I just had to put up a couple of friends from local waters here in Puget Sound. All images shot w/Canon 10D, 50mm macro. Juvenile Wolf Eel f/10@1/60; strobes @ 1/2 power Adult male Wolf Eel f/8@1/60; strobes @ 1/2 power
  4. I love my Subal housing! I use the 15mm fisheye in the FE2 dome port and the 50mm macro in the FP75B flat port. I also have the new 100mm macro and use it in the same port with an EXR-60 extension ring. The problem with 100mm is with the 1.6x mag factor it's kind of hard to use unless you're shooting REALLY tiny stuff. I find the 50mm adaquate for up close and personal shots down to small hermit crab size. The same extenstion ring allows me to shoot the 28-105mm in the FE2 dome port as well with a +2 diopter. Others on the board are successfully using the DP-SWC dome port as well. You'll also want to get a focus ring the 50mm as well as a zoom ring for the 28-105 if you choose to go with that lens. Oh, and for strobes I'm using dual Ike DS125's. I can't comment one way of the other on the Sea & Sea strobes because I've never used them.
  5. WENT on the rebreather trip (last Feb). I had to choose due to limited time and budget so I spent a week on the Tiburon in Key West taking a tri-mix class for my Inspiration. It was very fun, but no opportunities for photos :-( while trying to follow tables and run drills at 180ft. I did put the training to good use on the Nautilus trip last May where we dove the Transpac off of Princess Royal Island, BC. I got some good images of a hole cut into the hull at 225ft. It really put the Subal to the test! On the first dive the buttons froze up past about 180ft so the second dive I made sure everything was set where I wanted and just used the shutter lever and main & quick dials and it worked perfectly. Next year I'm going to Alaska on the Nautilus for a week. It's a GREAT boat.
  6. Very nice, and very unusual. btw - have fun on the shark trip coming up, wish I was still going with you :-(
  7. Hey I just wanted to post an update that this great little system is still available! Wouldn't you love a small spare housed system to take as a backup? Or a second system for a diving spouse or child? This is a great little point & shoot system for an excellent 5 megapixel Nikon Coolpix 5000. Drop me a line and help me find a new home for this beauty.
  8. I love my Subal C10. Yes, it was stupidly expensive but man it dives like a dream. I'm using the FE2 dome port with both the 15mm fisheye and 17-35/f2.8 as well as a FP75b flat port for my 50mm macro and the same flat port w/extension ring for the 100mm macro. You can check out some photos from a recent trip up the BC coast last May here. My only complaint is that the bayonet ports are REALLY tight. Subal says to put some silicone grease on them so I'll try that next time I'm out with it. I'm considering adding the Ike manual controllers for the DS125s, and will probably do so later this summer. Too bad Ike's not coming out with external eTTL controllers - now that would be the bomb! Marty
  9. Anxiously waiting to hear of any cool annoucements or prototype sitings. or if James actually showed anyone the Wetpixel secret handshake
  10. sorry, I want to sell the system as a whole
  11. I was informed by Backscatter yesterday that the new redisgned LMI Mod Light is "still under development and not expected for another 5-6 MONTHS" This is so lame, anyone know of any out of the way u/w camera shops that might have one of the old ones around I could buy?
  12. Thanks James! I'm definitely going to look into the manual controllers before my next trip.
  13. I have dual DS125's also and am thinking about adding two manuel controllers. Can you explain how yours work? In the photo it only looks like you have one wired to the housing, is the other in slave mode? thanks.
  14. I wish Canon would come out with something similar to the 12-24
  15. I just wanted to follow up to this question I posted a few months ago. I just finished a weeklong trip with the opportunity to shoot some wreck photos at 200+fsw. On the first dive I tried to make some exposure adjustments like boosting the ISO or simply hitting the lcd light button on top of the housing and the camera totally locked up until I ascended to around 120fsw where everything started working again. On the second dive I set everything the way I wanted before going deep and the camera worked perfectly as long as the only controlls I used were the main dial, speed dial and shutter lever controls. I purposelly left the buttons alone and could shoot images at will for the whole dive. On both dives I used the FE2 dome port without problems. The conclusion I have now is that the button springs are strong enought to hold buttons out from sea pressure but not strong enough to return them to the up position if depressed beyond 160fsw or so. I'm not sure when I'll be able to test depth limits again, bit its good to know the housing can hold up just fine beyond its documented limits. Marty
  16. it's true. check out my post in the lighting section with a response from LMI on when the new model will be out.
  17. I'm selling my Light & Motion Tetra 5000 with Nikonos bulkhead, Wetmate Pro Kit (wide angle and close up adapters) and ULCS Tetra swivel tray. It was purchased new Christmas 2002, has about 70-80 dives on it and works perfectly. Total new price was $2585, selling for $1500 plus shipping. The sale does not include the Coolpix 5000 camera, but am willing the negotiate a fair price for the camera as well if you're interested.
  18. I've used several brands of hoseless computers and they have ALL failed at one point or another. Sometimes it's as simple as changing a battery, others are more fatal like the transmitter flooding. My Cochran Gemini loses its signal if its worn on the same hand as my 18w HID light. In any case, I hate the concept of aborting a dive - especially if I've spent a lot of money to get somewhere I probably wont be again for some time - just because my computer has died. I have a simple Scubapro mini pressure gauge and a wrist mount computer. I also have the dual mini console that includes a depth gauge with the pressure gauge. I don't use them both, most of the time is use the dual gauge and it just sits clipped to my belt down to the left out of the way. I know my breathing rate and when I need to start watching the gauges to make the turn back to the surface. I usually check it about every 10 minutes early in the dive and more often as needed as the pressure falls below 1200psi. If my wrist computer dies, I can finish the dive with the mini console. I'm not concerned about time because I'm pretty much an air hog and have to turn back well before I've exceeded decompression limits. I also wear a dive watch so when I hit 20 feet I can stay for a good safety stop. I like reducing points of failure and diving with backup devices. My experience (and it's only MY experience, not a comment about how your computers have served you) is that hoseless computers have the ability to cause more problems than they solve. And they die at the worst possible time. The bottom line is that hosed gauges are 100% reliable, hoseless are less than 100%, your mileage may vary. :-)
  19. Thanks Stu - I'll let you know if I break that mark this weekend :-)
  20. My Subal C10 has a documented depth limit of 70m (210ft) but on the FE2 Dome Port there's a sticker that says "Depth Limit 180ft". Has anyone taken their Subal to 200ft or deeper with the dome port? I don't understand why the dome port couldn't go as deep as the flat ports or the housing itself. It's the same bayonet mount and my understandng is that spherical surfaces are better at depth than flat surfaces because they distribute the pressure more evenly across the entire surface. thanks, Marty
  21. I received this update on the Mod Light from LMI yesterday - From: Eric Squires [mailto:esquires@lmindustries.com] Sent: Fri 3/5/2004 4:32 PM To: Marty Steinberg Subject: Re: Mod Light Hello Marty- The 2004 Mod light should be done in about 8 weeks. Backscatter can certainly help you purchase if you would like to get in the que for one. Let us know if you have further questions. Best regards, Eric Squires Light & Motion
  22. I'm considering adding an LMI Mod Light to my housing as a focusing light. I've noticed Eric and several others use these for focusing lights on their rigs. I called Backscatter today and they said the Mod Lights are currently unavailable due to a design change currently under development. I had heard there was a recall on them due to them turning on by themselves but had not heard the current design was no longer shipping. Does anyone have any info as to when these wonderful lights might be available again? thanks.
  23. must be a bug, same message posted twice
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