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dwood

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About dwood

  • Rank
    Clownfish

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony RX-100 Mk II
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240
  • Accessories
    Ultralite arms, Inon WA & Macro lenses
  1. I've been looking at setting up a system similar to yours. Instead of the AD mount, I've ordered the UWL-H100 28LD lens and the Nauticam 67-LD converter. Any reason that this shouldn't work? Why did you go with AD mount vs LD?
  2. This is the website I was referring to in my initial post on this topic. What I was wondering about was actual experience with these 2 approaches i.e G9 with Inon UWL-100 (without dome port) vs G10 with WD-4.
  3. The UWL-100 definately won't work with the 28mm lens of the G10/11 cameras. Certainly an advantage of the UWL-100 is that it can be upgraded with the dome unit. Still, I was wondering how a G9 with a UWL-100 (without the dome port) would compare with a G10 with a WD-4. Thanks
  4. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Ikelite's WD-4 Wide Angle Dome, particularly as it compares with the Inon UWL-100 (or Ikelite W20) on a G9. According to Ikelite's web site, the WD-4 on a G10 theoretically gives a wide angle view about the same as the G9 with their W20 lens. I was hoping someone had some real-life experience comparing these. My G9 flooded and I'm tempted to move up to a G11 (which should also be able to use the WD-4), but I don't want to lose the wide angle field of view I'm used to with the UWL-100. Thanks
  5. I've found that the best way to get good macro pictures with the G9, particularly with the macro lens added, is to use manual focus. Anything else doesn't give me very reliable focus. I set the distance then move the camera in and out until the subject is in focus then shoot. There is very little lag in that situation. The camera also magnifies the focus point (which you can move) so you can get very accurate focus.
  6. I used a G9 in an Ikelite housing with a DS-125 strobe a few days ago. The WB was set for auto. The pitures had much too much red, although the exposure seemed OK, or slightly underexposed. I shot RAW and by adjusting the WB (reducing red), I could get the color to look right. These were shot in macro mode, aperture priority f=8.0. I adjusted the strobe output and got it to overexpose, but still too much red. Should the white balance be set for flash? I never had any problem using the WB auto setting with my Olympus C-5050. Thanks in advance.
  7. I played around with the G9 some more. In aperture priority mode, with the flash set to fire, the shutter speed stayed at 1/60 no matter what I did. So, if you are shooting a scene where you need a slower shutter speed, you'll have to go to Tv. An example would be with low ambient light where you would like to light up the foreground but still see the background. In that case, you might want to shoot at f/2.8 and, for example, 1/20. For a camera like this to not provide TTL strobe control in M mode is highly aggravating and totally unnecessary. A little work in software could have taken care of it.
  8. I was disappointed to make the same discovery you did. On my C-5050, I could set shutter and aperture manually and get TTL strobe control. For macro, it hasn't been a problem. I'm setting the aperture to 8.0 and not worrying about the shutter. For bigger things, I'm using Tv, but it's a work in progress. It's annoying that Canon did this. It would think it could be fixed easily with a software update.
  9. With respect to fogging, a lot depends on the air temp and humidity when the housing was last opened and the water temp. In New England where I dive, in the summer, the water temp below the thermocline is in the low to mid 40s but the air temp (and humidity) is higher and you will get condensation, even without using a strobe if you don't use a gel pack.
  10. What I've done while flying is to leave the o-ring in place, but put a piece of paper across the o-ring from inside to outside the housing. This keeps the 2 halves of the hosing from banging against each other but prevents an airtight seal.
  11. I was under the impression that the Sea and Sea DX-1G was capable of TTL strobe control via fiberoptic cable for appropriate strobes such as the YS-110. A recent posting on the thread "Upcoming Sea & Sea DX-1G camera" indicates that this is not the case. What have other people found?
  12. This camera might bear watching. A DSLR sized sensor in a compact digital camera. It will be interesting to see what it's other specifications are and how it performs. It would have the potential for much better high ISO performance than we can get with the little sensors we are stuck with now (without having to go to a SLR).
  13. Have you (or any G9 user who happens to be reading this) had a chance to do any macro shooting with the short port? Does it result in much limitation in comparison to being able to zoom further out with the long port? How about using the UCL-165 with the short port? Thanks.
  14. A question for G9 owners. On the G9, there are 2 custom settings, C1 and C2, on the mode dial that you can set up the way you want. Does this allow you to set a specific zoom amount that it will go to when you use it? It would be helpful to find the minimum amount of zoom needed to get rid of the vignetting with a wet mount WA lens and have it go there as a default. The other custom setting could be for when it is zoomed out until it almost hits the port (particularly useful when using the short port) so you wouldn't have to bang the lens against the port every time you zoomed for macro shots. I'm considering this camera as a possible replacement for my Olympus C-5050 but don't have enough info. yet to know if it's worth the money to do so. On the C-5050, I have 8 custom settings, and it will remember the amount of zoom on each. Thanks
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