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burville last won the day on October 2 2018

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About burville

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  1. My screen name has mysteriously changed at some point recently, can see no way to change it back nor can I see any reference to the screen name I've had on here for 13 years... Sent admin an email yesterday.
  2. Not sure that Adorama article will teach you much of anything tbh... Here's a good place to start: https://www.uwphotographyguide.com/underwater-photography-guide-beginners As others have pointed out, everyone should be well experienced and comfortable in the water before trying to shoot photos. This is extremely important for many reasons.
  3. I've been using a combo of ULCS and old Aquatica clamps for 13 years. I recently purchased a couple new Delta 3 clamps and I must admit they're fantastic. Really impressed by the ability to lock it down and easily release it. Great handle design - I do find the ULCS straight-bar handles get caught on things very easily. I also agree about the limited usability of triple clamps - bought a couple years ago and never use them now, very awkward.
  4. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57627
  5. I see many posts about lanyards on lengths of cord - designed so you don't 'lose' the rig, but not to secure the rig. I think the OP is asking about securing it. Any length of line will make a rig flop around if you let go. I attach a bolt snap to the base of each handle and sling it like a stage bottle - one on a shoulder D-ring and one on hip D-ring. It is important that the bolt snaps are tied very tight to the handles so they themselves don't flop around, they're rigid. Look up the methods of tying bolt snaps onto bottles/lights etc from tech divers to get an idea of how to tie a very rigid connection. Now I've only done this for scuba - its more challenging for free diving. I'd experiment with dual D-ring placement at different points on your belt. Perhaps to secure the camera on one hip or across the lower back. The D-rings should be rigid to form a tight connection and stop the camera from flopping around. Placement of the snaps on the housing is important so it sits naturally and doesn't try to rotate itself on the connection. Personally mine works best with the snaps on the bottom of the handles. Experiment. Cheers, Chris
  6. I think we forget how lucky we are to have Oskar posting on this forum at all - other strobe manufacturers do not. I pre-ordered the Retra Pro the first day it was available back in Nov. I'm super excited whenever its ready but also very aware that I agreed to an open-ended delivery. I'm sure they'll post updates once they have a better idea. Happy for them to take the time to make sure its a solid product.
  7. Ikelite sells a Nikonos to dual Ikelite cable (both TTL & non-TTL versions on B&H) so I'd see no point in buying other strobes if you own DS160's (except perhaps for switching to smaller strobes with user friendly knobs!). There are numerous trays available that could mount a Nikonos and dual strobes (I like the ULCS double tray and find many uses for it both UW & topside).
  8. Not reading the whole thread but Aquatica sells a remote trigger. I've also rigged up some fishing line in the past to physically pull the shutter lever.
  9. I'm unsure how these are all attached, I'm not familiar with the Nauticam gear, but you can get threaded step rings 77mm-67mm or 67mm-77mm at B&H or any other large camera store. Just don't buy the cheapest ones as they bind and would be no good for UW use. Ex: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/11687-REG/B_W_65069434_67mm_to_77mm_Step_Up.html Otherwise if its some sort of friction mount, you may just have to be creative. Cheers, Chris
  10. Yes, checking for cleanliness first throughout is key. Otherwise: Did this happen when you made the switch from D7100 to D500? The lens is notorious for 'hunting' UW due to the low light/contrast conditions and the fast speed of its AF motor. Could it be focusing faster on the D500 and therefore hunting more if it can't find focus? When it was first introduced many preferred the older screw-drive 105mm as its slower AF actually helped people to 'stop' the AF close (let go of the button if the camera couldn't lock focus) and 'rock for precision' as you say. The newer lens focuses so fast its hard to do the same. Chris
  11. Ummmm.... I shoot the D810 in an Aquatica and do indeed use my 24-70mm UW (though its been a while). Aquatica offers an extension ring and zoom gear for the lens. Good for sharks. Does Nauticam somehow not support the lens?? I'm not sure what you mean by "lens selection is very limited" - Nikon/Canon SLR's have great lens selections....
  12. Stick with the D810. Period. I would agree the D500 makes more sense for UW if buying new. However I disagree with Adam that AF is so important UW. The D810's AF is fantastic (its my housed camera) and while I haven't used the D850 (I have used the D500), I consider AF as quite unimportant UW. I shoot more topside than UW and pushed the AF limits of many cameras in challenging situations over the years, but UW is not one of them. That being said, the D810's AF is improved over my old D700 UW with the 105mm - I use my focus light less which is great for shy subjects. That did impress me. I wouldn't expect to see any significant difference with the D500/850 UW. Topside action would be a different story. The D810 was a huge leap over the D800, much closer to the D850 overall, despite what the spec sheets say. I'm glad I made the D800-810 upgrade, but have no desire for the D850. Chris
  13. I've been through many bags and my current favorite (just been to Indonesia and back) is the Lowepro Whistler (larger one). Its shape is unique. Camera compartment is deep enough to hold my Aquatica D810 housing. My 9.5" dome goes in the outer expandable clothing pocket. Its fairly narrow so fits in tight overhead spaces, using the vertical space instead of horizontal. I've fit it when people with much smaller rollers have to go back and gate check. Bonus is that the camera compartment can be removed if going on a flight with small overheads (done that too). Of course you have to deal with carrying all the weight, but I find airlines don't usually bother questioning & weighing backpacks like they do rollers. I also have a Thinktank Airport Security which is a great bag, but just too much for tight carry-on rules these days. That served as my 2nd checked bag on my latest trip, carrying strobes, arms, torches, tools, chargers etc. Also a Peak Design Messenger as 'personal item' which handles one body and a couple lenses. Overall worked well managing a ton of UW and topside camera kit.
  14. Skipping through this thread a bit... but will say my D810's AF with the 105mm macro is mind blowing compared to even my previous D700. Don't need a focus light for 90% of situations whereas absolutely needed it for most things with older cameras. No mirrorless camera could remotely hope to compete with that. No firmware updates are going to magically bring sensor-AF up to par with a modern dedicated AF module. Not anytime soon at least, no matter how good some people claim it to be. Perhaps under 'ideal' circumstances but UW shooting is far from that.
  15. Haven't read through this whole thread, but would suggest the Lowepro Whistler backpack (the bigger size). The shape of the bag is unique, quite 'deep' (how far it sticks off your back) especially using the outer pocket expansion. This means it can fit straight into most overhead bins, using the full vertical space in the bin instead of the horizontal space. I've fit it when people with smaller sized rollers have to take them back off the plane to be gate checked. Also agree backpacks get weighed less. Just traveled to Indonesia and back, never got weighed once (it was about 40-50lbs). Even used the outer pocket (kind of a clothing pocket) for my 9.5" dome + clothes, always a challenge to pack. One extra bonus is that the camera compartment can be removed (had to do so once with a small plane). That box is also a size that fits nicely in most normal carry on roller bags, seen that done too. Amazed to see pics of people packing their housings with the handles still attached - to me an utter waste of valuable space. Unless you can't detach the handles from some housings???
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