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Everything posted by jonm

  1. I've got an Ikelite housing for the Olympus TG-5 for sale. It was used for ~20 dives or so before my wife decided she liked the Olympus housing that she had with her TG-2 better. Overall it's in good condition, with some mineral spots on the front lens (which go away underwater), and some scratching on the back plastic. Comes in the original box, with the manual and accessories. New this sells for $299, I'm selling this one for $150, shipped. If you want, I'll throw in an Intova double-arm tray (with DS mounts) for free.
  2. Has anyone tried the Sony 50mm macro lens underwater? I've had great results with the 90mm macro, but in lower visibility situations I sometimes wish I could get closer to the larger subjects. Having a wider field of view would help, I think. -Jon
  3. Is this still available? PM me if so... -Jon
  4. I started using this on my SMC-1 when the rubber cap disappeared: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00009R9BL/ It's nice and tight and easy to get on/off underwater. -Jon
  5. Has anyone tried this with the Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 lens? I'm curious if it would provide any benefits there... -Jon
  6. I just started posting at https://www.instagram.com/jon_mcclintock/ -Jon
  7. Compositionally, if you can't get the ideal "portrait" of the nudi, as other folks suggest above, I would back out and see if you can't get a wider shot that places the animal in context. Using the rhinophores as eyes, tell a story about where it's going and the environment it's in: -Jon
  8. Some more details on the camera body: its got 42,230 shutter activations. There is one stuck pixel on the LCD display, but nothing on the sensor or actual pictures.
  9. I picked up the Nauticam SMC-1 before a recent dive trip to Anilao. It definitely takes getting used to, but once you've got it dialed in, you can do some amazing things with it. Pros are that it's sharp, has good color, minimal distortion, and nice bokeh. Cons are that it's heavy, and I noticed some vignetting occasionally. I used the flip diopter holder, which was also helpful for when you want to take pictures of slightly larger stuff. Sample images attached... -Jon
  10. I've upgraded to a Sony full-frame setup, so it's time to find a new home for my old Olympus micro-4/3rds gear. Here's what you get: Olympus E-PL5 16 megapixel micro-4/3rds body, with extra battery. Olympus PT-053 housing, with the original flat port and an extra unused o-ring. Zen Underwater 100mm dome port (with extra o-rings). Olympus 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 lens (with zoom gear and anti-glare shroud) Olympus 9-18mm f/4.0-5.6 lens (with zoom gear) Olympus 60mm f/2.8 macro lens (with focus gear) Panasonic 45mm f/2.8 macro lens 2x Sea and Sea YS-D2 strobes (these are the black Chinese ones), with spare fiber optic cord. iTorch Venusian III 800 lumen focus/video light, with two batteries. KitDive dual arm tray with 2 8" arms for each side. Everything works, and has been well taken care of. The housing has never flooded. There's some blueing to the aluminum from hard water on some of the liveaboards we've been on, and it's all definitely been used (the strobe arm mounts have some wear on them as well). But, it's ready to go dive and take pictures. All of this, shipped to you, for $1700 US. Unfortunately, I can't ship internationally, sorry. Examples of the pictures I've taken with it just last year: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jonmcclintock/sets/72157701827088315 https://www.flickr.com/photos/jonmcclintock/sets/72157673235003268 https://www.flickr.com/photos/jonmcclintock/sets/72157697635211164
  11. The key thing you're running into is that the natural light is overpowering your strobe. You can tell this because the red colors are really undersaturated, and there's a lot of blue. Underwater, natural light loses most of the red spectrum, whereas your strobe has the full spectrum of light. So what you need to do is use the controls of the camera to limit how much natural light gets in, and create more opportunity for your strobe light to be recorded. When you set your camera to do the metering for you, it's going to make its calculations based on the light it can see, and guess how much flash needs to be added to make a properly exposed picture. The problem is that there's plenty of light coming in, it's just all natural light, which is strongly blue. If you don't want to mess around with manual settings, you can use your camera's exposure compensation to try to tell it to ignore some of the natural light. I'd try dialing the exposure compensation down to -1 or even -2, and see if that helps make less natural light come in. You might then need to dial the flash strength on your strobe higher. And, as other people said, get closer: the less water between your camera and the subject, the less light gets filtered out by the water. However, in the long term you're going to get the best results by going manual, as other people say. It's not that hard to get used to, it just takes some experimentation. You can do this on land, too. Go into a darker room with a window. Put something on the table in front of the window. Experiment with shutter, aperture, ISO and strobe speed until the subject and the stuff outside the window are equally exposed. I like to start by picking an ISO (such as 400), picking a shutter speed (1/100 is a good starting point), setting the strobe at midpoint, and then using the aperture to get the subject properly exposed. Then you adjust the shutter speed to get the background properly exposed. A slower shutter speed will increase the exposure of the background, and a faster shutter speed will make the background darker. Try this a few times and a few situations in the air before you try it under water. -Jon
  12. This was my first dive with a new setup (A7R III w/ 90mm macro in the Nauticam housing), but I got a couple of good shots: More in the album if you click through to Flickr... -Jon
  13. Hi folks, I'm a Seattle-based diver, who dives in both the PNW and warmer waters around the world. I've been doing underwater photography for a while now, but just upgraded from an Olympus micro-4/3rds setup to the Sony A7R III. Check out some of my pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jonmcclintock -Jon
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