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mvermill

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About mvermill

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    Starfish
  1. Possible DUMB Question: I am using dual ikelite ds-50 strobes and thinking about putting two aiming flash lights on the strobes. Do you have to turn off these aiming lights BEFORE you take the shot so you don't get any hot spot (light spots from the flash lights) in the shot? Or will the strobe's lights just over power any hot spots from the aiming flash lights? Thanks Marc
  2. I am looking for a raw converter for the Oly 5060 (5050 is slightly different format). I don't currently use Photoshop CS, but I do use Photoshop 7.0. (No currently $$$'s to upgrade rigtht now). I want to review & tweak the exposure on the raw image (post-dive). I download the Olympus plugin from their website but that plugin doesn't allow you to do anything, just to read the file. :-( Does anyone have a low cost raw file converter???? FYI: The program listed in the splashdowndiver article doesn't work with the 5060 raw file. marc vermill marc@southcoastdivers.com
  3. I think I am doing something wrong with my Ikelite DS-50 strobe. At least 50% of my underwater pictures appear as if the strobe did not go off. The pictures are very dark. I can see that the strobe went off when I take the pictures. I have a Olympus 3020, with an Ikelite housing and a DS-50 strobe. The strobe is 'connected' via the slave. I deflect the internal strobe with the supplied shield (and the internal flash is set to be always on). I make sure to partially press the shutter button focus and pre-flash. The strobe is set to ttl (not manual). I normally use the camera on program underwater (and aperture or shutter priority above water). Have I screw things up? Should I set the camera (when underwater) to shutter priority and set the shutter spread to around 1/60th or 1/80th a second to better synch the strobe? (I normally fairly close to my subject less the 3 feet. The strobe is normally off to the side at 45 degree angle slightly above camera level.) HELP??? Thanks Marc
  4. Thank you for your suggestions. Well now it is time to hit the stores to find the right one. Again thank you! Marc
  5. I have a digital camera (Oly 3020), Ikelite housing, and an Ikelite DS-50 strobe and now I need a case. I want to get a pelican case? But what size? I will want to use the case as carry-on when I travel with my camera. Who have purchase one for their camera? Is it large enough? Where did you buy it and the foam from? How much? Any regrets? Do you wish you bought some other manufactor? I am thinking about a Pelican case because I love the one I have for my gear. Thanks Marc
  6. Any comments or tips to improve. This picture was taken with an Olympus 3020 with an Ikelite housing using the program ('P') mode and the internal flash in about 20ft of water. I just ordered a DS-50 strobe this week. So that should help. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks Marc
  7. I am learning how to take underwater pictures using my digital camera. I think this one came out 'OK' with little backscater (photoshop cleaned). Please let me know what you think. I want to improve! Thanks Marc I could not post the link to the actual image but here is the webpage. Look at the 3rd picture from the left on the top row. (Purple Sea Urchins) Thanks http://www.geocities.com/lunnie/coranado_islands.htm
  8. I am fairly new to UW Digitial photo. I have an Olympus 3020 with an Ikelite housing. I am looking to purchase a strobe for it. It looks like I will be getting the DS-50 with the TTL slave but all the package I see have the stobe on a stick and not on a ball and socket joint. The ball and socket joint is 100+ more. Should I spend the extra money and get the ball and socket arm or is the straight arm OK. Is the 50 good enough or should I really spend the extra dollars and go with the 125. I don't plan on becoming a pro....... Thanks Marc
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