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About buzo

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Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D2X
  • Camera Housing
    JAFTEK custom
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    none yet
  • Accessories
    none yet
  1. Thanks for the info Colin. I think that I will buy several of the different thickness cables to do some experimenting. So far my experience with the SB-800's has been very frustrating. Exposures are not accurate, and they recycle very slow,even though I shoot at f2.8 and f4.0 most of the time. I find that Fantasea dropped the ball with their housing when they did not make room for the 5th battery. They should have made the housing big enough to fit a small battery pack with the strobe. Underwater lighting sucks up a great deal of light. Not to get to far of subject, but will the SB-800 sync to an INON 240 using the TTL feature on both strobes and shooting a Nikon D 2X? buzo
  2. I do not like the spiral cable because it catches on everything. I would prefer to tie wrap a stright cable to my arms. I used the velcro attachment strips that came with the cable, but they were continually falling off. I beleive that the amount on light transmitted through the Fantasea cable is not strong enough to be reliable, especially in murky waters where I do most of my photography. I lost my cable on my last outing, so I need to buy another one, but do not plan to get another Fantasea. Anybody? Thanks, buzo
  3. I am looking for an fiber optic cable that is not spiral wound like the Fantasea. I also need one that transfers a stronger light signal, since I have not had good reliability with the Fantasea system. I have been using 2 Nikon SB-800 strobes with the Fantasea Housings, but I have found that the slave strobe fails to fire most of the time. Also, the velcro like attachment used to connect the 2 stobes falls off regularly. Where can I get this seven strand optic cable: http://www.marcfurth.com/new_page_2.htm This seems like a better setup. buzo
  4. I plan to continue diving in the Everglades. It is a very different environment from the ocean, and I would like to document the rest of the animals. As for getting close to the alligators, I would not do it on my own. The diver in the photographs is Manny Puig. You may have seen him with the Wildboyz or some of his Ultimate Predator Videos. Manny has been diving the Everglades most of his life, and he knows it like the back of his hand. He has a vast knowledge of predatory animal behaviour, including sharks, poisonous snakes, alligators, bears, etc. When we entered the ponds and the canals, he would identify the dominant alligator and predict their behaviour, including a charge that one of the gators made towards me when I was entering the pond. I would not get in the water by myself. Some of these canals are 15 to 20 feet wide and 5 ft deep, water visibility can be less that 3 ft, and there may be 20 gators hanging out in very close proximity. We have come accross several 11 footers. Manny gets very close to them; I hide behind my huge housing. Manny is fearless, I beleive that he projects a confident presence when he enters the water that the alligators recognize and respect. So in answer to your question Chris, I know very little about their behaviour, but they are very powerful and dangerous creatures. Don't let that mischivous smile fool you. Alex, I like the ambient light myself, but sometime it is so dark in there that in order to capture the images, the exposures will go down to .5 sec to as much as 2 secs. It is very difficult to shoot in this condition and get sharp images, especially if there is any motion. Last week I took my strobe in and I was only able to pull one useable frame. I have an INON Z240 with a Sea & Sea converte,r and I was trying to use it for fill rather than overpower the ambient light, but I could not balance it correctly. The water was very murky and the tree canopy covering the canals took the light levels very low. Here are 2 shots, one with the flash and one without. I do not like the flashed picture, but I was not able to bring the flash output any lower using ttl. The TTL seemed to be very hit and miss exposure, and the low light levels produced many soft images. I am not sure how to add another image. I have tried uploading it several times, but it does not work.
  5. I just finished building a custom aluminum u/w housing last month for my Nikon D2X, and since the ocean has been pretty rough off Miami, we decided to take it to the Everglades. I did not have a strobe at the time so I was forced to shoot available light. The images ware made on 3 different days, and water visibility ranged from 2 feet to ten feet. ISO ranged from 100 to 400, and shutter speeds varied from 1/2 second to 1/80 second. I used the Nikon 12-24mm zoom lens and the 15-55mm Nikon lens. Most of the images were take at the widest apertures. Shooting distances were 1ft to 3 feet to subject. You can see the images in my web page. http://jafphotography.com/ The site is still under construction, so you will find some errors and some gibberish. Go to the PORTFOLIO tab and open Gallery2 page 1. Click on the thumbnail to open the photograph, and click on the photogrpah to close it. I have since picked up a stobe, but I had some problems using it the first time. Diving the Everglades has been of the most interesting and exiting dives I have ever made.
  6. Well, for what it's worth, I drove up to ReefPhoto this afternoon and picked up a SEA&SEA TTL converter and an Inon Z-240 strobe. Nice compact strobe package. Now I need to learn how to use it. Nice people at ReefPhoto.
  7. I have been a professional photographer for over 20 years and a diver for even longer, but I have not taken many photographs underwater. I have spent most of my time spearfishing. However, I have just recently started photographing underwater, and I have decided to hang up my speargun. I am in the process of shopping for an underwater strobe, and I am leaning towards the INON Z-240. I am using a Nikon D2X inside a custom built aluminum housing I made in my machine shop. I have a 5 pin Nikonos V strobe cable that attaches to accessory shoe on top of my camera. As I understand it, this connector will not give me TTL capabilities with the INON strobe, I will need to use a ttl strobe connector between the the Nikonos connector and the strobe. I don't think that the manual setting on the strobe will work for me, since I find that the light conditions I have been shooting under, change quickly and dramatically, as does the distance to the subject. So far I have been shooting available light only, and although the results have been pretty good, the slow shutter speeds and wide apertures necessary result in a large number of soft images, not to mention some dark shadows, low contrast and poor color. I've had good luck shooting above water using ttl. so I hope to be able to use the same method underwater. Will I be able to use the automatic settings on the strobe using the 5 pin Nikonos V cable without the ttl connector? The ttl connector is a bit pricey at over $500.00, so I may want to get it at a later date. Thanks.
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