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Everything posted by Scotzh

  1. I have the old NX Compact Macro Port Base+ / Compact Macro Port SII combo for my D500 and 60mm. I can add a Extension Ring 20L and use the 105mm with this combo but not with the focusring. The focusring cant fit inside the Compact Macro Port SII hole. I saw that S&S released a new combo for the 60mm where they use NX Extension Ring 30L+ together with the new DX Macro Port 52. Did anyone buy this combo yet? Can anyone help me with measurements of the inner diameter or tried 105mm with focusring? Or even better, does anyone have a solution for the old combo? I'm trying to optimize the traveling weight. Thanks, Jonas
  2. Phil, I’ve been using the cmc-1 with 60mm but someone told me that you could use the cmc-1 with the 105mm. I was sceptical since Nauticam only specify the 60mm as compatible with the cmc-1.
  3. Joss, I've tried the 105mm with CMC-1 today and I too had problem getting the object in focus. I guess I just have to buy me the SMC-1 and a SMC-1 multiplier as everybody else.
  4. I know that many use the Nikon 105mm or Canon 100mm together with the SMC-1 plus multiplier but have anyone tried to use the 105mm with the CMC-1 on a DX camera (D-500 etc)? Did you get any good result? Diffractions, sharp corners, image quality etc?
  5. Thanks, I thought so Tim, that’s why I started with that I was sorry if this had been covered before. I also tried to search for the topics but try to search for, arm AND clamp, and see the results. It’s very hard to use the search for things that is used in so many different topics. I will put it on my todo list how to perform a proper search. Maybe you could point me to that tread and then we could close this one? Thank you all for replying even though it had been covered before.
  6. Hi I'm sorry if this already has been covered before. I'm using clamps and arms that I'm not so happy with. They are very narrow in angle if you're not trying to move the arms in the joint direction. I've seen the S&S's new SA8 II. The new clamp can be set so that you can move the arms 60 degrees sideways. Instead of buying a new set of clamps just to try I'd rater hear your opinions of clamps and arms. What is you favorite brand and why?
  7. I heard that the pictures wasn't showing so I have edited the post and moved the pictures to Flickr. I hope you will be able to see them now.
  8. I like to share my lightweight insert creation. I had a hard time to find any good options for my carry on bag so I started to look at options how to make the inserts myself. I bought a light weight foam mat, velcro tape, and fabric that the velcro stick to, like loop fabric from Velcro etc. The total cost is around US$25 (not including the carry on bag price). I had to use another fabric type than the fabric described above since I couldn’t find the loop fabric locally. I recommend that you use a more stiffer fabric than I got hold on. My fabric stretches so I had to saw strait seems to fixate it onto the foam mat. I hope it will help someone else. The empty carry on bag weigh 1.65kg/3.64lb The total weight of my insert setup is 452g/15.9oz The total weight with my current gear that you can see in the picture is 10.9kg/24lb
  9. I was assuming that the E-Opto worked like the TTL-converters like S&S etc. Now I know better thanks to you. Thank you Jerry
  10. What is the fastest shutter speed you can use with the E-Opto converter? There is no specs about this on the website.
  11. Nice reading. Tim, does the DGX version work on d500 and tokina 10-17? What apertures is the AF working on? Would like to test the setup. Any suggestions for a zoom-ring for the sea&sea mdx housing?
  12. May I ask what you think was the leaking reason? Was it the sentinel that leaked the water?
  13. Hi Thanks for your input. Sounds good that it might not be such a big issue. Then I will send it in for service once the housing needs it. The problem is if that occurs on a trip though. Would be nice to be able to fix it on the spot.
  14. Is there anyone that can help me with information/guides about what o-rings, springs etc that is used for the Sea&Sea mdx-d500housing? I’d like to service it myself since I’m travelling to places like Lembeh. It doesn’t make sense to send it in for service after each trip to get rid of all the sand in the buttons. I know that some of you would like to avoid me from doing it myself but come on, It’s not rocket science how to do remove and replace parts. And you also have the vacuum system to help you detecting any leakage problem. Anyone? Private message me or reply to this topic. I guess more ppl might be interested.
  15. I have upgraded to a DSLR UW-rig and have a Nauticam WWL-1 wet lens for sale in mint condition. For use with Sony E, FE systems such as the full frame Sony A7, Canon M or Micro 4/3 such as Olympus M.ZUIKO, Panasonic Lumix. It is also great for compact cameras such as Sony RX100 version II to V and Canon PowerShot G7X, G16, S120 and Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX100 With this lens you can take 130° wide angle pictures but also shoot awesome close focus WA pictures. Excerpt from Nauticams website. (read more and take a look at pictures taken with the WWL-1 lens at Nauticams website) BREAKTHROUGH LENS DESIGN ZOOM TO FRAME STUNNING FIELD OF VIEW INCREDIBLE SHARPNESS & CONTRAST CLOSE FOCUS Current backscatter price is US$1680: Nauticam WWL-1 Wet Wide Lens 130°, $1,320 Nauticam Buoyancy Collar, $58 Nauticam Hard Cap, $92 N50 Short port with M67 thread, $210 Included in the package: Carrying Case Neoprene Cover Rear Lens Cap for WWL M67 Mounting Ring Bayonet Mounting Ring Buoyancy Collar Front hard cap N50 Short port with M67 thread I'm only asking for US$800 plus shipping. I live in Sweden and the shipping is around $50-60 to US.
  16. I've searched a bit more and came across a video from Tokina where they actually explained the difference between the old lens with hood and the new lens without. What Tokina has done to enable the lens for FF is just to remove the hood. Thats it. No other difference.
  17. Thanks Tim I just saw that the no hood lens is now also compatible with the FF. Does this mean that there are any changes for the cropped sensor because of this? https://tokinalens.com/catalog/lenses/?p%5B4%5D=AT-X%20AF&p%5B5%5D=Wide%20Zoom
  18. Hi The Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye Lens for nikon can be bought with or without a hood. Do you actually need the hood when used UW? /Jonas
  19. Hi I'm going to buy a used Sea & Sea mdx-d500 housing. I have two Inon 330 strobes that I like to continue using. I can't seem to find wether or not the Optical YS Converter/N1 from Sea & Sea will work fine with my Inon 330 in TTL mode. Does anyone know if there are any issues with this combo or do they work 100% and fast? Then I saw the i-TURTLE SMART TTL converter from art-electronics that seems to work with the MDX housing and Inon 330. Anyone using this TTL converter that like to share their opinion? Are you happy with or would you go for the Sea & Sea converter? Happy to hear your thoughts and opinions.
  20. Hi Tim and Tom and thank you for your input @Tim you're right that i didn't mention WA as an own separate number in the list but within number 3. I'm on thin ice here so correct me if I'm wrong but I got the impression that you'll be able to get WA with the Nauticam MWL-1 on a FX camera with a 60mm lens or the WACP with the AF Nikkor 28-70mm. Am I correct? Can I use these on a DX camera or are they only working on the FX cameras? @Tom If I can't use a 60mm with the Canon 5D I guess that will remove it from the list. Jonas
  21. Hi all I'm in the process of upgrading from my RX100IV to a dSLR system (the RX100IV with Nauticam housing and WWL-1 lens will be for sale when I've upgraded). I've started to read a lot about cameras and see that the d500 and d850 are popular Nikon choices for the DX and FX respectively. I can't find that much about the 5D mark IV and 7d mark II from Canon. Is Nikon the foremost choice for underwater photography? If so, how come? Is it because the Nikon lenses are better or is the technology in the cameras better from Nikon? Is it correct that I can only use the Nauticam SMC-1 on the 105mm lens and not on the 60mm lens while I can use the SMC-1 on the 60 and 100mm from Canon? Can I use the CMC-1 on the Nikon 60mm? Would it make sense for macro? Since I'm not moving anything from my R100IV setup would you recommend me going for a full frame or a cropped camera? I like to take macro/super macro photos in e.g. Lembeh but I'm also interested in using the new Nauticam MWL-1 and perhaps WACP in order to reduce the amount of lenses and domes ports for the housing. Would you recommend me starting with a 60mm or a 100/105mm lens for macro? I read that several people stopped using their 60mm after awhile and just using their 105mm and SMC-1 and even a multiplier. I would like not to travel with a container of stuff just in case I might need it and I would like to "invest" in a camera that I can use for a long time and be happy with.
  22. Hi all members I'm a swede loving to dive in the coral triangle.
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