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About fisheyeview

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D200
  • Camera Housing
    Sea&Sea DX-D200
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    INON Z220 x2
  • Accessories
    Fisheye Mod Light

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  1. I will add my 0.02 on this. The Tokina 10-17 is my W/A lens of choice too. I use it for wrecks, reefs, diver shots, walls (just got back from Little Cayman), turtles, fish shots, and even a close up of mating squid. The Tokina is the way to go. IMHO
  2. Attention all alumni and fans of Virginia Tech and Kansas. The Virginia Tech Hokies will be squaring off against the Kansas Jayhawks in the 2008 FedEx Orange Bowl on January 3rd. The game starts at 8:00 PM My company has a skybox on the 50 yardline at Dolphins stadium. (This is not an exageration. The owner of my company signed up for the box the day they announced that they were building the stadium.) The box comes with 14 tickets & 4 parking passes. The parking is so close to the gate that is a joy to go to the games. If you have never been in a skybox for a game you have never experience the only way to go. I am not posting this to make you envious. We will not be using the box for the Orange Bowl game. If anyone is interested in the box PM me.
  3. I would also recommend Birds. Went with them in January and really enjoyed it. Go during the week, and avoid the holidays, and you should be okay. Weekends and holidays will have crowds. I was still shooting f**m when I was up there in January. I used my 16mm fe and was happy with the results. When I go back with my D200 I will be using the 10-17.
  4. While the dry diopters usually give you stronger magnification they limit you to your shooting. I use a wt diopter for teh flexability to put it on or take it off as the shot calls for.
  5. This is due to the fact that the bulkhead & the cable connection are made out of two different types of metal. It's called electrolitic pitting. That's why boat engines have zinc's. The softest metal will attract the pitting. In your case it is the sync cord connectors taking the beating. I was having the same problem with my sync cords on my first housing. I would leave the sync cords connected all the time, and I ended up with severely pitted connectors. I now disconnect my sync cord when I'm not diving. This has eliminated the problem for me. Short of putting a zinc on your housing this is probably the easiest solution. On an extended trip I will leave them connected, and clean them once half way through the trip. Of course, YMMV
  6. I use B&H and Adorama. I have been happy with both of them.
  7. I have never had a battery problem with the D200. I dove 2 weekends in a row (4 dives) on the same charge with no problem. I have done as many as 6 dives on the same battery.
  8. I just got my camera & 105mm lens back from Nikon. The lens had the repair information attached to it. The camera had a shipping slip stamped BEYOND REPAIR. Well, at least I got back a usable 105mm lens. And I still love my D200.
  9. I am partial to Sea & Sea (but then I already had the ports since I went from a Sea & Sea housing for my F100 to the D200). It is negative, but I have never found this to be an issue. I shoot it with the Tokina 10-17 FE in the Fisheye Dome Port, with the 60mm in the Custom Flat Port, and with the 105mm VR in the Custom Flat Port with the XS Extension Ring. I use dual INON z220's. I have done 4 dives in a day with the 105mm VR, and never found it to bother me. Maybe my wrists are just stronger than others from when I was a youth..............................what? I played lacrosse. Ryan is down in Bonaire right now. I think he will be back on Monday, but you can always talk to Richard. I believe they will do rentals that they will credit toward the purchase if you decide to by the setup. If you do any deco diving you might want to look at the Light in Motion housing. You can play PONG on your deco stops.
  10. Jim, I have the 105mm VR. I will have to try this technique. Thanks
  11. I would set it to FULL. I accidentally had it on LIMIT once, and it drove me nuts the entire dive.
  12. Both lenses have their place. You have to look at the subjects you want to shoot, and the viz. As said above, I would start with the 60mm and if you feel you need it you can add the 105mm. Something else to consider....will you bee shooting the old 105mm, or will you be shooting the 105mm VR? With my Sea & Sea housing I could go from the 60mm to the 105mm by adding an extension ring to my flat port. When I got the 105mm VR I found that the same set up would not work without some modifications. With some housings you will need 2 seperate ports to have both the 60mm & the 105mm.
  13. You forgot the g-string. After comparing a lot of options I went with the D200 and could not be happier. I would go with the D200. As to the weather protection in case of a flood I should know soon. I flooded my D200 and 105mm lens on a dive a month or so ago. Sent them both to Nikon. Nikon said they could fix them, but then they said the same thing to someone else I know. The camera eventually came back to them labeled as "unreparable". At least Nikon said they would not charge me if they could not fix the camera. I bought a new body, and the 105mm VR right after the flood. If the flooded system comes back fixed I will have a back up. I already love my D200. If they can fix my flooded one I will be the biggest D200 advocate around.
  14. Hi Mathew, Dish soap works, or Johnsons Baby Shampoo. As for o-ring grease just enough to keep the o-ring from drying out. The o-ring itself keeps the seal, not the grease. The more grease you use the more likely you are to attract sand. Especially shooting in the surf. Welcome to the pool.
  15. Definitely RAW. Why let the camera do any of the thinking?
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