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E_viking

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Everything posted by E_viking

  1. I would assume that the beam Pattern would be a bit mor rectangular, since a straight flash bulb instead of the T-shaped.
  2. What type of Batteries did you use. I had an Inon die on me ( luckily the 2nd was still working). I was told that it was because I was using 2700mAh Batteries. The symptoms were that everything seemed to work, including Focus Light. It just did not want to Flash. I am using D80, heinrichs and 2*Inon's. I am only using 2500mAh Batteries now and no problems anymore. After reading a bit about the new verson of the Z240, version 3. I have learned that they had problems with Heat dissipation already in the previous version. /Erik
  3. Hi All, If you use A-mode then you have a few possibilities for a slower shutterspeed: 1: Change the slowest allowed shutter speed, standard 1/60. I can't remember what it is called, but it is possible. 2: Use the Slow Synch Mode 3: Adjust the EV, until the slowest allowed Shutter speed is reached. If you want to increase the Shutter Speed without changing the Aperture. Then the only chance in A-mode is to change the EV, Exposure Value. I think that you can change it +/-2EV. Just a question, which Aperture & ISO did you set?
  4. Be careful of buying built in Batteries. You will/might get into trouble while flying. Subtronic are also offering Batteries in the Arm. That way you can separate the Battery from the Strobe while flying and also an easier change of Batteries.
  5. Hi Guys, Me and my wife have 1 each. We have used them for a bit over 1 year now and we really like them. We have not had any problems whtsoever in keeping them dry (inside). You just need to be careful in switching it on. The On/Off is the screw type. So, just open it until the light comes on. If you open them too much, then they will flood. The Water can only enter trough the O-ring and if you open it too much, then there is no pressure on the O-ring ( Ergo, here comes the water). They are in that sense not "fool-proof", as any Lamps or Night dive Markers etc etc etc. Those Hot-shoe types seems to be OK, as long as they have the Sea&Sea dimensions on the lamp side. I use them with ULCS 3-way Clamp and one of those small Lamp holders with a 1" ball at the end. /Erik
  6. I did a classic flood about 5 years ago in Sipadan. Thank god that it was a P&S Digicam. I was sleeping in a Hammock between dives. I woke by the shout "time to dive". In the stress I was missing a hair while closing the lid. I am for the moment quite happy that it happened to me with a cheap kit ( moral support for Alex :-) ). I hope that it makes me a bit more aware nowadays. I have3 promised myself to skip the Camera if it happens again. If I really will skip the Camera on a dive is another question. i tend to prepare all the camera stuff before heading to the hammock nowadays. /Erik
  7. Hi, I am using the INON 45° for a year now and I love it. It is generally great at lowdown Macro. As written previously the half-half photos are a bit more tricky. Be sure that you will be able to tilt it 90°, ie no buttons etc in the way. I have to admit that it took a bit of time to get used to it in the beginning, buit a couple of dives and that part was ok. I also find somewhat troublesome to find at Night dives, for some reason. Otherwise
  8. Sorry for not having looked at this for a while. I managed to have a look at it myself, unfortunately dry only. It works just nicely. My biggest worry was how to cover the internal flash. Just like you have seen, Pennywise. Have you come up with a solution so far? I was assuming that it must be possible to get something sticky and dark covering it in there somehow. Well, he Camera would be for my wife. I hope that I will not have to wait too long for my Pics :-) Cheers, ERik
  9. Hi, Have someone tried the new "hard-to-get" ( atleast here in Europe) Sea&Sea DX-1G together with an INON D2000 Strobe? Or atleast found out if it would work? Sea&Sea would of course not say anything about it. /Erik
  10. Hi, I switched from P'n'S to a Nikon D80 last winter and I had worries about the Viewfinder. My solution was to get an INON Viewfinder, 45°. I am still very happywith that decision. I have no problems to take pics of the PygmeSeahorses. I actually find it harder to se them in reality :-) Well, I assume that it makes it much easier that I just have to slightly look up. My Metamorhposis has gone so far that I do not see any need for a Liveview anymore. /Erik
  11. Are you really getting 4 hours out of the batteries? Do you leave the Live view on constantly or does it/you switch off somehow between use? Well, a fact is that the Monitor eats a lot of battery power. If I remember it correctly there is a pretty small view finder on the E-330. Would make sense, since it is mainly a Live view camera. So, it might not be the perfect comparison. Well, as I wrote above. Everybody gets happy in their own ways. I personally do not miss the Live View mode ( when going from Compact to dSLR). I thought that I would miss it, but that is not the case.
  12. Hi all, I just wanted to make a general comment, since I stood before the same topic around Xmas time. Since then I have done about 70 dives with my dSLR setup. The step from the "Live view" of a compact to the view finder of a dSLR camera worried me. How would it work etc etc. At the end I decided for the Nikon D80 with the INON angle view finder. I had no problems to adjust to the view finder. It took me about 2 dives or so, until I actually started to prefer the View finder over the Live view. The reason for that is the clearer and sharper picture. A really big advantage for the View finder solution is the battery life. The worst battery eater in a camera is by far the LCD Monitor. If you use a system with Live view, you will need to change batteries between dives. I tend to need to change my 4GB memory card before I need to change batteries. This reduces hazzle and also decreases the risk of flooding. Every person, a different mind & different experience. Anyway, take this as a my experience in going from Live-view to View finder. It was much much easier than I thought.
  13. Hi All, Sorry for the late reply. I had to tryout my, finally arrived, drysuit. I fitted and was dry :-) @ Christian: I have just learned those formulas myself :-) Yes, I admit to being an Engineer I really like your picture of the Manta. I have to say that I generally tend towards the smaller INON's. E_viking
  14. @Christian, I am afraid that it is the case. The Maxi has a Guide number of 16 UW and the NOVA has 20. That can then be multiplied with sqrt(5)=2.24 to get an air Guide Number. That would give us 16*2.24=36 and 20*2.24=44.8. To combine 2 equal strobes the equation is GN=sqrt(2)GN1. That would give us 1.41*24=33,8 Then there is the fact that the Subtronics has a dome glass at the end that should theoretically reduce the GN. Well, they are expensive strobes. That is what makes me think! However, I am leaning towards the INON's for the reason of having 2. E_viking
  15. @Christian Thanks for the Inputs. That helps me in taking the right decision, or atleast feeling good with it. I will start with a Sigma 10-20mm, but knowing myself I will probably end up with a Fisheye as well sonner or later Have you dual INON Z240 users ever felt limited by the firepower? E_viking Ps! Keep the comments/inputs coming.
  16. Hi Guys, Thanks for your quick answers, keep them coming! Bruce: Thanks for the advice. I have been thinking about it as well, but I find that the Sea&Sea adapter is too expensive ( especially based on the reported problems). I would then rather cough up the money for the built in TTL of the Subtronics. If I would already have the Strobe/Strobes it might have been a different thought. Espen&Mike: Does the 2 Inon's deliver enough firepower for the wideangle of a Sigma 10-20mm? What does your experience say? Color can of course be an issue It is of course possible to calculate on the guide numbers, but they "sometimes" seems to be measured in a bit of a positive way Anyway, converting the combined GN of 2 INON Z240 (GN=24) to water would give a GN(water) of 15.2 and a subtronic Maxi has 16. A question of the correct aiming of the strobes etc. Then there is of course the energy in Ws as well. Hmm, experience seems to be better, atleast easier!!!!! e_viking
  17. Hi All, I need some help with the choice of a Strobe or Strobes for my Nikon D80. U/W housing is ordered and the Sigma 10-20mm and the Nikon 60mm are also on the way. So, now I need to decide on Strobe/Strobes. So, what am I looking for? * I want a "one system fits all" type of setup, ie I don't want a set for macro and a set for WA. * I want to have the ability to use TTL, it seems to start to come around. ( I do not have an Ikelite housing, so no Ikelite Strobes.) * I do not mind them being reasonably sized for traveling. So, now we are getting to my questions to the more experienced guys out there. * What kind of overall Guidenumbers are actually needed for Wideangle? * Is it better to have 2 Strobes like the INON Z-240 or one big Subtronic, 116°. ( Money wise it ends up roughly in the same neighbourhood.) What are your thoughts on the topics above? Cheers Ps! Based on previous postings, regarding troubles with Subtronic. I live in Munich, Germany, ( a 2 hour drive to Subtronic ). That should be helpful, if I would end up with those troubles
  18. Hi, I have been contemplating a couple of years about getting into the world of dSLRs and I am finally about to go for it. After looking around for a while the Nikon D80 seems to be the right choice for me. ( No old glass, so I am free to choose B) ). I just wanted to hear with you guys if I have missed out on something here? I have been looking at: * Olympus E-330: Too expensive wideangle * Canon 400D: Too small grip for Topside * Nikon D200: Does not seem to offer me anything motivating me to go for the cost Are you D80 users out there happy with it? is is something that I have overlooked? What houses have you been using? Are you happy with the Ikelite housing? Which makro and WW are happiest using? /E_viking Ps! I know that there has been a lot of posts close to this, but these are my questions
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