Jump to content

E_viking

Member
  • Content Count

    419
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by E_viking

  1. Would be interesting with the Housing compatibility. Not that I need the updates for UW Photography. I assume that the Battery grip could be the interesting/killing issue. /Erik
  2. It all depends on what you want to shoot. The 105:s are good if you want to get into super macro. The 60 is more versatile, but not good for supermacros. If the object is a wee bit larger then you have to back of a lot, when using a 105mm. That will lead to too much water in between camera and object. /Erik
  3. The Inwardlightning as Oku dscribed it. Helps y to get a darker background. The illuminated fish stands out more against the dark background.
  4. Hi, Unless you are into Video then you do not need a very stong one. The Focus light tends to spook the subjects the more the stronger it is. So, make sure that you can turn down the light. Something in the range of 600-800 Lumen is pretty much enough. I seldom use more than 2-300 lumen. I have an i-Torch with 600 lumen. /Erik
  5. Another hint can be to try with inward lightning. Basically pointing the strobe backwards and just using the outer rim of the strobe light to light the subject. That way you do not illuminate the Background. It is fun to Play around with!
  6. You are of course allowed to do whatever you want to and find good! Anyway, I was thinking of more classical drysuit areas. For me that is alpine lakes with about 4-7°C temperature and not the Red Sea :-) Air is what gives you the Isolation. The more Isolation that you need/want, the more air you need to add to your drysuit. ( The air is either trapped in the neoprene or added into the drysuit.) The more air that you add in your drysuit, the more weights you need! Wetsuit diving is a different ballgame, since the extra weight has no benefit. /Erik
  7. @goose: I would personally state. 1) You need a certain amount of weight to keep down, as with Neoprene. 2) Depending on water temp. You also need "warming weights", especially with a trilaminate. There is a huge difference in self Isolation between a trilaminate and a 4.5mm neoprene dry suit. Where you put your "bouvancy" air is a personal issue. I always teach to newbies that they should put enough air in the Suit to feel comfy and the control part in the BCD. /Erik
  8. Hi, I also retrofitted it into my D800 Housing. I find it great. In my opinion the Price is ok. No Troubles so far after about 60 dives with it. The only slight negative is that you have to open the Housing in order to Switch on/off the electronics. Well, that is a minor issue. The LED is very easy to see even in bright daylight. I find this a really good and important. It is not difficult to retrofit it yourself as long as you can solder, since the cables are much longer than needed for my D800 housing. /Erik
  9. Hi, Did you set the internal strobe and the INON correctly? For S-TTL: Camera: to TTL INON Mode Knob . STTL INON Lower Push button: If I remember it correctly you it Needs to be either pushed in or out ( I can not remember which one). Cheers, Erik
  10. Hi, Just check how quickly it sinks. It should sink very slowly. I would guesstimate that 250g is ok, but not 100% optimum /Erik
  11. I would assume that most of them should work. I personally use the ULCS and they work nicley for quite some years now. /Erik
  12. My humble opinion is that the main difference is in how you lock your Focus. Manual Focus: turning a Knob "Back Button AF": pre locking the Focus at some easy object Then the real Focusing is done by moving slightly back and forth in both cases. /Erik
  13. Hi, I have used it quite a bit over the last year. The only false alarms I have gotten was while rinsing it in the Bathtub after diving. When I by mistake have tapped up to warm water :-) Apart from that it is working nicely. /Erik
  14. Hi, I do not believe that you will feel the need for Manual Focus. There are situations were a locked Focus is desirable. My Definition of those are when you are moving into the direction of super macro. An easy way to get around the issue is to use the "back button Focus". I am not sure if the D200 has it, but I would assume. It is a method in which you deactive the Focus from the Trigger button and activate it on a button reachable from your right hand thumb. Which button and how to changes from Camera to Camera. This way you can lock your Focus to the desired distance. Then you Focus by moving. /Erik
  15. You will be fine with 2 INON Strobes. The most important is that they have the same Color Temperature. Otherwise, you would get strange Color casts. Both the INONs do have the same Color Temp, according to my knowledge. It also makes it somewhat easier that they are similar in controls. /Erik
  16. Be Aware that you can spook the Object with a Focus Light. Some animals does not care, some others get spooked with white light, but not red. Some other animals just turns away. An example is the Pygme Seahorse ( no Eyelids)
  17. How do you Keep the Gel in place? I assume that you would use a Diffusor that you already have and put it behind it. How did you manage to buy it. I tried it, but gave up. /Erik
  18. Well, I would say that 21USD is not that expensive in comparison to the rest of our Equipment :-)
  19. I would be astonished if any of the Housing manufacturers are making a Housing for it. The reason would be that they would have to do quite a bit of design chages, due to the controls. I personally by far prefer the controls of a DSLR, but it looks cool.
  20. okuma. These Color Temperature Conversion Diffusors that I wrote about are marked INON/ 4900K/ -0,5stop or INON/ 4600K/ -0.5stop. They are warming up the Strobe from 5500K downto 4900K resp. 4600K. They produce a warmer blue water.
  21. I use the Diffusers/Filter that warms the Strobes all the time on Wideangle. It warm up the Color of the Bluewater nicely.
  22. Hi. Macro: A Focus light will probably help. With the Focuslight you might scare some creatures. Be careful using it! You can prefocus pn a spot where the object Returns to. You can prelock the Focus and move back and forth until it is in Focus. Wideangle: The particles in the water softens up everything, unless it is gin clear. To avoid this. It is just to reduce the amaount of water. Focus: Sometimes it can be low contrast while UW. Try finding something with a bit more contras to focus on.
  23. It all depends on what you are after. In my opinion you always have to Research and adjust your expectations to it. I been plenty of times to Egypt and I visited the Azores last year ( and elsewhere as well). The General rule ( my opinion) is the further south you go in Egypt the better it gets. I think that the main Problem in the Red Sea are the amount of divers. The Azores have some amazing Bluewater dives, like Princes Alice Banks and the Condor Banks. However, the reef diving in the Azores were rather dull.
  24. I assume that it all depends on how big it is allowed to be. The Olympus OM-D:s seems to be a good choice.
×
×
  • Create New...