Jump to content

Pomacentridae

Member
  • Content Count

    87
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Pomacentridae last won the day on September 19 2021

Pomacentridae had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Pomacentridae

  • Rank
    Moray Eel

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Philippines
  • Interests
    Wildlife Photography: Fish, Arthropods, Corals, Reptiles, Amphibians and Birds

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Philippines
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM5-III, Olympus E-PL10, Canon G15
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z330s, Light & Motion

Recent Profile Visitors

607 profile views
  1. I did this and used the gradient tool in doing the WB. Here is the final result. Some haze left but I feel like it is better now. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hi @ChrisRoss, I am using DXO Photolab 5 and am shooting in RAW. I realize that I seem to be pushing what I can do with my single strobe. From my other post I realize that the gradient was due to my single strobe being at the far RHS. My next steps would maybe be to buy a second strobe and longer arms. Cheers,
  3. Hi @ChrisRoss, I think your analysis is spot on. I sort of understand the issue would be me using a single strobe to shoot this scene -- it is on the right hand side. And is giving one side more color than the other. So when I correct the WB or Black Point globally it does not even out with one side either too much or the other side too little. Yes I am trying to balance the tint, if I use heavy tint the RHS would be reddish (like what you see here), if I use low tint the LHS would be greenish. I am using DXO Photolab 5. Thanks
  4. How far away were you when you got this? I could only manage about 2 meters away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hi there, I did some surface shots of striped mackerel and crocodile needlefish feeding. I am shooting in RAW and using a single Z330 strobe. Images are still greenish after but the strobe gives good light to make it sharp. Then I mainly correct for white balance only. The main issue I have is that there is a reddish haze on my images. I have attempted to remove it by darkening the shadows. Any way of editing that out in post? White balance corrected below: Shadows darkened to minimize haze below: White balance corrected below: Shadows darkened to minimize haze below: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. [mention]Kraken de Mabini [/mention] took me a while to get back to the spot with the garden eels but found time over the weekend. I was able to get about 2 meters away, and you can now see the details. Unfortunately, the water was very silty during my trip. Hence the haze. Gonna ask here in the forums if there is a way to remove silt/haze in post processing. Also any tips on aiming your strobes at such a far distance (2m) and not hit the particles? My strobe arms are only 14 inches long, i am using a Z330, so I am really hitting the particles between me and the subject. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I just want to share a simple solution I came up with. Remove Before Dive Ribbons We’ve all become preoccupied at least once and forget to do a pre-dive photo check and have ended up on a wonderful dive carrying a brick! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thank you! I like what I am hearing about what happens on the dives, I typically linger on a dive site for typically 2 days as well. Day 1 is just taking photos and getting a feel for what happens on the reef throughout the day. So you see all the opportunities when and where the fish typically feed, what behaviors they do. Then on Day 2 you can sort of plan or anticipate what you'd specifically like to go back and capture. For the out of water stuff. Do they have like photo briefs before going down? Does the dive boat get very crowded and chaotic getting in and out of the boat? Do you guys socialize or do people share stuff, or is it more like everyone is too busy maintaining their gear and backing up images to bother talking with people? Or does it depend on the crowd? Was hoping to get learnings from others being on the expedition.
  9. Hello there, I've never been on those planned UW Photo Expeditions or Holidays with other uw photographers so I don't know what I am missing. But would like to know how is it different from your typical photo diving experience (i.e. drive to the beach or boat to a dive site, dive and take photos, go home). Wanting to know what is it like? what activities you do during the trips? amenities typically provided? are there like workshops or sharing? during the dive planning are there photo specific briefs? Whats the diving like are you all together or spread across the reef? Are UW photographers typically friendly or serious? etc. I usually plan and go to the same places they go to on my own. So I see their expedition boats pull up to these locations full of UW Photographers with trained staff helping them in and out of the water. So was wondering what am I missing and what are the added benefits I would get in joining these expeditions -- given that I am already able to go there on my own. Thank you
  10. Thats sounds about right. Your depth of field is about 5mm, meaning everything in that 5mm thick plane will be in focus. Your working distance is the maximum and minimum distance from your camera where you can move that 5mm plane. From my experience, because of the very shallow depth of field, the cmc-1 is really a challenge to work with for macro photography. Video I feel will be a lot more challenging. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Hi I understand we are both using the same Olympus EPL10 with the 60mm Macro. That lens is currently my favorite and use mine for both macro and fish portraits. My main tips are: - Back button focus, this allows you a lot of control with focus. I focus on the eye and then recompose, then shutter release. - Smallest single focus point, allows you to focus on the exact point you want quickly. - Use the focus peaking feature, it helps show which parts of the animal are in focus. - Use a focus light, the camera uses a contrast AF. Providing light allows the camera to pick up those features and focus quickly. I use the focus light on my strobe for this. - minimize lighting particles in the water, they cause the lens to focus on the particles and hunt for the subject a lot. Just light up only the subject. If it locks onto a particle and starts hunting, waiting for it to find the subject takes forever, i usually pull back focus on my fin or hand then go back in. This isn’t a major problem. - typically i don’t limit the focus, that allows me to compose things from fish to nudis on a dive. Having the focus light makes it focus so quickly anyways so no need to limit. - I typically shoot at f11 to maximize depth of field for macro while minimizing diffraction. F5.6 if sharpness is what i am after or larger animals. Shutter speed is from 1/160-1/250 to adjust the background color. ISO usually on low, but sometimes bump up to 200 or so if i am shooting at f11 and want a blue or green background. - with a CMC1 wet lens, hard as hell to work with haha. Cheers, Pomacentridae Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Don't know a lot about this but two inputs: (1) The Oly 8mm is longer than the Pana 8mm. AOI makes a port DLP06 that supports the Pana 8mm, but for that port to work with the oly 8mm, you need to add a 24mm port extension. (2) I feel doubtful that the mentioned dome port will work well with the oly 60mm. Usually we use it with a flat port. The 60 mm is an excellent macro and fish portrait lens. I am currently using the Oly EPL10 with AOI housing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Yeah, unfortunately i shoot in jpeg most of the time. But have been trying to shoot in RAW to do better post. But I am still at that development stage in learning to edit in RAW. This patch is way up north near Ligpo Island. I prefer it there, less tourists and divers. Its open again so trying to be there every two weeks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. True true. I also approached down current and from below the slope. They did not seem to freak out as fast haha. Will definitely explore the remote cable. Might try a GoPro on time-lapse and lights first to see if the composition with that technique would be worth all the effort. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Haha That is the ultimate dream! I wish I could afford a rebreather! I explored it, even if I could get the CCR unit, the maintenance and logistics of it are quite expensive and limited here in the Philippines. Maybe as more people adopt it, it'll become more practical. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...