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Pomacentridae

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Pomacentridae last won the day on June 24

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About Pomacentridae

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Philippines
  • Interests
    Wildlife Photography: Fish, Arthropods, Corals, Reptiles, Amphibians and Birds

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Philippines
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EM5-III, Olympus E-PL10, Canon G15
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z330s, Light & Motion

Recent Profile Visitors

999 profile views
  1. Hey Guys! Just want to share the good news on the AOI UH-OM1 Housing. https://www.aoi-uw.com/news/aoi_uh-om1_housing/?fbclid=IwAR2IrqUvTGn2Xd90vXhSt_z_snirau7Uo52QvYeTuu9-doPddU1RW4z7eeU I think of interest to the existing users of the EPL10 is the new adapter to convert the PEN port to an OMD port. We’ll now be able to support PRO lenses. Cheers, P Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hi There, Lately moving into the CFWA sphere. I am encountering some technique problems and wanted to see how others do it. I am using Olympus EPL10 + 14-42mm + WWL-1B 1. How do you get close enough to fill the frame enough to make the subject thee subject? Given I am using a wide angle lens, I need to get very very close to the subject to even see any details on the subject and with that distance I find the subject running away. I have no problem with reefscapes or large subjects (i.e. divers, humphead wrasses, larger rays). But the small and medium sized critters (golf ball to a little smaller than a basketball) I am having difficulty. They appear more like reefscape photo than a CFWA shot. Need to know if it is a realistic thing I am trying to achieve with these smaller to medium sized subjects. 2. How do you gauge distance and not hit coral or rock? I am using a viewfinder and I lose all concept of distance. Found myself gently bumping into coral or rock once or twice (thank goodness no scratch!). I know I am really close but in the viewfinder it looks so far away. 3. In bright conditions (0-10m) with the sun up high. I get this weird lens flare with my WWL-1B quite a bit. I usually need to shoot with the sun behind my back. Is this normal with the WWL-1B. On land with fisheyes this never seems to be a problem. Thanks all! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I have the EM5III and you just set the flash power to 1/64 on manual. And it pretty much allows you mash the shutter button as fast as you can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I was able to try both out in the store. I realized you can’t really compare the two. The straight one is really a magnifier. It makes the image look twice as big. It really allowed you to see all the details on screen amazingly clear. However you really need your eye on the viewfinder to see it clearly as there is no eye relief and there isn’t really a viewing angle. Also it is more like a 15 or 20 degree angle. The 90 degree one on the other hand is really just two mirrors that allow you to see the screen at an angle. It however isn’t really 90 degrees. More like a 70 or 65 degree angle (between a 45 and 90). Versus the straight viewfinder, there is some eye relief to 90 degree viewfinder. You can keep your eye about an inch from the viewfinder and still see into it. And there is a bit of viewing angle, which is helpful in targeting as you can look forward and still see into the viewfinder from your periphery. This made it comfortable to use and aim. I went with the 90 degree option because that was really my need. But the straight viewfinder was also compelling because of the magnification, like nailing details was so easy with it. Will be diving with it next weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Oh perfect. I am also shooting at f8 and ISO200. So I guess that is about the same. Will play around with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks for that! Yeah I am trying to better understand my Z330s. I am usually shooting at 1/2 or 3/4 power and not lighting up enough reef — therefore feeling I am getting some settings wrong. I am gonna try to get nearer and also play with my camera settings so that I can get good exposures at that 1/8 to 1/4 range. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Hello, I would like to get thoughts, experiences and recommendations on AOI viewfinders. I am choosing between the AOI UMG-01 (straight) and the UMG-05 (90 degree viewfinder). I am leaning towards the 90 degree one as it'll be useful shooting low to the seabed and when in the prone position. One issue I am kind of seeing is when shooting in the upright position, I will be looking down while trying to see my subject directly front me. Would that be difficult? Is it such an issue I should also get the straight one? Or from your experience will you be able to adjust to it? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Hello WetPixel, I am trying to decipher the Inon Z330 power settings. Maybe best is to show what I understand to be the power output based on the setting (showing my understanding in table below) 1. First Understanding = you only get a full dump when in “M Full” Flash Mode. In the “M -0.5 [emoji839]-6”flash mode you only get less than full power. Is this correct? 2. Second Understanding = each full negative stop you half the output power. Is this correct? 3. What does EV stand for? Exposure Value? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks [mention]TimG [/mention] I went out and bought the Cinebag CB80. I am using the Peak Design Camera Cube large which is exactly 18 x 13 x 7 inches. The fit was perfection, so exact. I also had space on top and the side for my other hardware. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hi Owen, Having the same concerns. I did talk with Nauticam and they said “Yes, you can absolutely use the hard cap for protection while in water.” So I will definitely be taking a drill and adding a clip to my hard cap. It’ll give me options. But as for the neoprene cover. I have bought the WWL-1B neoprene cover (https://www.nauticam.com/products/neoprene-cover-for-wwl-1b) and sewn on a bungee cord to the top velcro clasp. This allows me to undo and loosen the top clasp while keeping the cover securely on the lens. Having loosened it, i can now pull the neoprene cover under the lens and out of the way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks Chris, no worries. Did my own solution. I sewed on a bungee cord to the top velcro clasp. This means I can undo and loosen the top clasp and pull the cover under and out of the way while keeping it still attached to the lens. Top Clasp undone Cover pulled under and out of the way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. As I was curious and have been using the hard cap a lot, I did check with Nauticam on this and they said: “Yes, you can absolutely use the hard cap for protection while in water.“ But agree that you do need to rinse it and not let it dry with saltwater. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hi Chris, do you have a photo of this setup by any chance? I am looking for ideas on how to attach my neoprene cover to my housing. I don't really have pockets on my BCD so no where to keep the cover.
  14. Any suggestions for photo organization software in the cloud? Something that I can use to organize and access across many devices usually on the go. I will just be storing the final JPEG files onto this. Thinking Flickr?
  15. Good to hear, I am deciding on getting the CB80 Square Grouper XL. So far it is ticking my boxes: carry-on compatible, portable rinse tank, boat protection, and very durable. Now it just needs to fit my existing camera cube which is 18" x 13" x 7". I will visit my local store to check the fit. Hoping it does. The water bottle pockets are a plus for the Grouper bag. I really can't live without such a bag on the trips I take. Sadly, my AO Cooler bag inner lining tore after about 2 years use and I now can't use it as a rinse tank. Sad because it still looks new expect for the torn lining. So I am looking for a replacement.
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