Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Pomacentridae

  1. I am looking to convert to a bayonet mounting system. Wanted to know if the different brands (Nauticam, Inon, AOI) are compatible with each other?
  2. Thanks Chris this sounds like the most versatile solution for me at the moment. I really like the idea of inon wet lens, small and compact enough for my use. Will look into it. The mirrorless track is starting to look a bit more promising to me than the compromise compact route. Just need to balance the costs to get the most bang out of my buck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. You are right, I surmised the same from the images I saw. From what i could find publicly, the flash trigger is a separate AOI STR-003 Flash Trigger. I messaged him, but didn’t get a response. Based on past images I think they are doing testing right now. It is a bit hard to gather info because most of the discussion is in mandarin haha. Found another picture though the housing is in the background. Very similar to the PT-EP08. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Hi Chris, Thanks for that insight, if the EPL10 and the EM-5 MKII are similar, I think I will be okaywith that AF. I've used the EM-5 MKII for bird photography (not the best but reasonable), it will definitely be better than my current compact. Agree, I am aware that the LX100II isn't an ideal solution since there are limitations when using the flat port with wet lens. It really is a compromise solution. I figured I could use two combinations with the LX100: (1) Macro x Fish Portrait combo with the Standard Port and Wet Macro Lens. (2) Wide Angle x limited macro/fish portrait combo with the Short Port and Wide Wet Lens. Do you think that the 14-42 lens in a flat port augmented by wet macro and wide lens would be a better solution versus that LX100II combinations I talked about earlier?
  5. Can you confirm the models they might be planning to release? I've been Facebook stalking some diver friends of mine from Taiwan, one of them I know is connected with AOI had an obscure picture posted this week with another captioned AOI UH-EM5 Mark III (see below). I am a bit excited because this will make it more affordable to go mirrorless for me.
  6. Hi All, Was hoping to get your thoughts and insight into a system that is suited for me. Originally, I wanted to upgrade and get mirrorless system, either the Olympus EM-10III or EM-5III in a Nauticam Housing. But given the cost of the housing + port + focus gear is already 2,500 USD alone, add to that the cost of the lens and body you are looking at about 3,000-4,000USD. This is beyond what I am willing to spend. I had decided to go with the LX100II in a Nauticam Housing because the housing + camera + short port is about 2,300USD, plus I already have the necessary wet lens to use with this for both macro and wide angle. It fits my budget. A bit of background, I am a research diver in the Philippines and travel to very remote locations. I usually dive for photography during my “spare” time while out in the field. But given the random and remote locations I don’t really know what to expect when I dive, so the criteria in picking was: Ease of use - quick access to manual controls, back button focus, fast focusing, fast access to white balancing, can set the temperature to match my strobes and small size for travel. This allows me to react quickly to situations and unexpected subjects or behaviors I encounter. My frustration with my old Canon G15 was I could not change settings quickly and focus fast. Versatility - need something that will allow me to do the following photography during a single dive. Again I do encounter random and very different subjects. I am very opportunistic when I photograph and take pictures of things that present themselves well as I encounter them. So being able to capture different scenes is a criteria for me. Macro = subjects 2-3 cm in size, I don’t do really super macro subjects. Fish Portraits = subjects 10-30 cm in size General Wide Angle = various macro fauna. Performance Great Lens: for the LX100II it has a useful focal length of 24-75mm and is very bright at F1.7/2.8. I have the wet lens to augment this already. Sensor is a Micro 4/3 Fast focusing mainly for fish and small subjects. My Canon G15's focus would hunt a lot. Allows for rapid flash triggering. I am keen on behaviors, typically I would shadow my subjects or stay in a single spot waiting to capture behavior. Been frustrated at the slow recycle time of my current compact camera. Life span and longevity - I don’t upgrade equipment often (hard to afford as a researcher), but I have used a polycarbonate Canon DC-WP48 case for my Canon G15 for about 8 years. So far it has held up and I have never flooded it. I have just meticulously cleaned it after every dive but given there is no maintenance or repair support for the housing, I am in constant fear of flooding as it ages from wear and tear. That is why my criteria for a new housing is: Housing preferably aluminum Has a vacuum valve Easy to maintain in the field Maintenance Service in the Philippines. I was about to purchase the LX100II when I saw on Backscatter a review on the Olympus E-PL10 with the AOI housing (here is the Review and here is the System Chart). This made me stop as the E-PL10 in AOI housing falls well within my budget and seems to tick all my boxes. I really like: For 650USD, it come with the LED triggering and vacuum valve system. This ticks two of the things I am looking for. It has the ability to have dedicated macro or wide lens, aside from the 14-42mm kit lens, if I choose to or ever need it. This gives me the ability to expand the lens I use. And given that the housing only costs 650USD I have enough left over in my budget to get those additional ports and lens. I do have some major hesitations and would like hear people's opinions on these: Life span and maintenance given E-PL10 is a polycarbonate housing. Are AOI cases repairable or serviceable (especially the buttons and led triggering electronics)? I don't want to have a breakdown and not be able to repair a system I have invested in. I understand over time things fail, but I just need it to last like 7-8 years, aluminum housings definitely last this long but are polycarbonate housings good enough? Versatility and quality of Olympus 14-42mm lens versus the 24-75mm lens of the Panasonic (in conjunction with the CMC-1, CMC-2 and WWL wet lens). Which would be a better setup? I am weighing this because most of the time I will be diving in that configuration. Performance of the LX100II versus the E-PL10 in terms of WB, Focusing, and Manual Controls? Given Olympus just got sold, is it advisable to begin investing in the Micro 4/3 line up? Would love to get your insights on this. Happy also for other recommendations. Cheers, Pomacentridae
  7. thanks everyone for the replies, I decided to go with my normal prescriptions and had that installed onto my mask.
  8. Hi I am planning to get prescription lenses for my dive mask. Was wondering if you correct for the magnification of the water when picking prescription lens? i.e. my actual grades are -2.50 for both left and right eyes, do I need to get a lower diopter of -2.00 to compensate for water magnification? Or there isn’t any value in doing this, and just get it in my actual grade. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Really depends on what you plan to do. If for photography during the day, a dive light will not really help as it won't provide enough light to overcome ambient lighting and won't make a big difference (unless really up close like for macro). I suggest buy a strobe light instead, you'll get way better results because the flash from a strobe is millions of lumens versus thousands from a dive light. Dive lights for day time conditions are rarely ever used. If for night diving, the 1600 lumen light is plenty bright as a photo light as there isn't ambient light to overpower. You can get decent pictures with that light (but would still recommend a strobe because more lumens). The additional colors make it more versatile and gives you more creative options. That amount of light is also good enough for general night time navigation in clear water. Also works well as a decent video light at night. If for video during the day the 5800 lumen light would be useful. It would bring back some colors to subjects about 2 feet away. But beyond that distance, colors drops off quickly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Haha Where was this NorChill bag when I was looking for cooler bags? I was looking for a cooler bag with that over-sized front pocket, unfortunately when I was buying AO Cooler no longer made that version of theirs. The Cooler Bag version I have is the 24-can size (17" x 12" x 10") it is small enough for carry-on. If I recall my research right, you can go up to the 36-can model and it still meets carry-on requirements. The 48-can model unfortunately isn't carry-on compliant. The 24-can size fits my Compact Camera with Dome Port, 2 x floater arms and 2 x Z330 strobes (but barely!). You got to contort the arms and strobes a bit in order to close the bag. But if you leave the bag open it'll swallow it up no problem. I just keep the bag open if I am just setting my camera down on the boat but neatly fold my strobe arms to close the bag when we are moving. I can imagine the 36-can version to be okay for a Mirrorless or DLSR setup? The CB70 Square Grouper is most likely carry-on compliant as well given the size at 16" x 12" x 11".
  11. Hi, I recently got an AO Cooler bag: https://aocoolers.com/24-pack-carbon-cooler-black.html I got the black carbon model because it is very water repellent and dries really quickly. I typically just hose it down at the end of the day, then wipe it down dry. Salt seems to just slide off, did not notice any salt build up on the zippers. Used it for about 3 weeks out on fieldwork for my camera system. It worked well on the boat. For travel what I did was I bought a camera bag insert: https://fstopgear.com/products/icu/pro-icu-large So the cooler serves double duty as my camera bag during travel. I typically arrive at my destination and i can just pull out the camera insert and all my stuff is there. That camera insert stays in the hotel room nice and dry. Then I assemble my camera and just drop it in cooler bag and that serves as my wet bag which i can take onto the boat. Hope it helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Interesting sorting categories. I agree I will need a pile of those items I never use
  13. thanks Adam haha, we are in the same boat here, looking for knick-knacks takes a few minutes of my life everytime.
  14. As my underwater camera gear setup grows, so does my collection of parts grow. I have many adapters, lens, spare o-rings, clamps, arms, nuts and bolts, small accessories that typically comes with your lights, strobes, etc. All of it just randomly placed on my shelf. Wanted to know how do you guys store and organize all your stuff at home? Pictures would be appreciated so I can get an idea of how you do yours. Thanks
  15. What did you eventually get? I am actually picking from the two at the moment. Thanks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  16. Does anyone have any experience with the TRT Electronics Turtle trigger for use on a compact camera with a hotshoe? Specifically the LX100 II in a Nauticam housing? Are there alternative flash triggers that may be compatible with compact cameras?
  17. Thanks Chris, I did not realize they had that universal bracket, I will get that instead. Cheers, Aaron
  18. Hello there, I have a Nauticam Flexitray II and want to install a trigger mount. However, since I don't have a Nauticam housing the Nauticam brackets won't work. I am looking at third party options but don't know if those options are compatible with the Nauticam Flexitray II. Would like to know if the Dimension X and the Screw Diameter here are standard? Cheers, Aaron
  19. Thanks so much Chris and Interceptor for the feedback. That gives me enough information to conclude that when I am running these video lights, I'll only be able to do macro work and not be able to shoot farther distances. Based on that I'll stick to my strobes for when I do wide-angle work.
  20. Hi Chris, I understand, I am currently using a Canon G7X III, it is fairly decent in low light. But I am not sure if the video light would be strong enough to allow me to take fish portraits (0.5 - 1.0 m away) that are sharp and where you have the colors back. Would like to know your thoughts. thanks.
  21. Hi All, I am looking for video lights that can operate both above and below the water for extended time (40 mins+). This is a bit hard to find as most underwater video lights need water to prevent them from overheating. Right now the only option I am able to find is the Light and Motion Stella CL 1000/2500 UW Video Light. The light will function up to 1000 lumens above water and up to 2500 lumens below water. Based on my experience 2 x 1000 lumen video lights is sufficient lighting above water to illuminate photography subjects up to 5 meters away. However, underwater I am not sure if 2 x 2500 Lumen Video lights would provide enough lighting to be useful underwater. My questions are: 1. What type of underwater photography/video would 2 x 2500 lumen Video Lights allow me to do achieve decently? I know it should be enough for macro but what about medium sized subjects at about 0.5 -1 meter distance? 2. Does anyone have experience using the Light and Motion Stella CL 1000/2500 UW Video Light? How was your experience? 3. Does anyone know of other Video Light options that are able to operate above and below water at extended periods? Thanks, Aaron
  22. Hi Everyone, I am a photography enthusiast based in the Philippines. I love taking nature pictures and animal behavior both above and below the water. The kick I get out of it is the thrill of the hunt to get that perfect shot -- the more challenging the shot the better. I would typically spend 2-3 days out in the field finding, observing and photographing a specific animal or location. I am looking to seek advice with photography underwater. Cheers, Aaron
  • Create New...