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Pedro Carrillo

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Everything posted by Pedro Carrillo

  1. I am with you Udo, I´ll keep my fingers crossed but just remember that we need it does not automatically mean it will be updated; the micro range comes to my mind (200mm, 70-180...)
  2. Two days ago I ordered a Nikkor 16m and Sigma 15mm to B&H Photo (Alex, you could´nt help me to make my mind!) to pair with my brand new D4 (yes, Alex you HELPED me with that one! ) Imagine how happy I am now! Luckily, rumors are just rumours, aren´t they?
  3. +1 and a great camera for land photography when you are done with the diving. Shame on Nikon they added all that video stuff; you either shoot photos or video, and I could not care less for the video part (I try to remain "focused" )
  4. Hi, I am selling an almost new Seacam DP125 dome: -Just used a couple of times, it is in mind condition (glass is scratch free and delrin body has no marks) -New Seacam thread-bayonet system (digital) -Neoprene cover and cap included -Best suited for the following lenses: Nikon: Nikkor 17-55 f2.8 for DX Nikkor 17-35 f2.8 for DX and FX Canon: Canon 16-35 f2.8L USM and USM II New sells for aprox. USD 700; I am willing to take USD 400 plus shipping. Thank you for looking!
  5. Hi, I have for sale quite a few Seacam parts. Based in Spain, will ship worldwide. I state first the listed price by US Distributor and then my asking price. I am willing to apply further discount if anyone buys the whole set or a significant package Pls do not hesitate to contact me at: info@pedrocarrillo.net Thanks! Fisheye Dome: New USD 1701 - Asking USD 900. It is the old model (all metal). Minor marks in the glass that won´t show on photos. Normal cosmetic wearing on the bottom shade Focus gear for Canon EF 100 and Zoom gear for Canon AF 16-35: New USD 241 and USD 180 - Asking USD 145 y USD 100 Domeport 125: New USD 655 - Asking USD 375. Brand new. PVL 25: New USD 254 - Asking 155
  6. Hi, does the housing have the M/S/C control? (it´s optional) and any bulkhead on the hole under the shutter, on the right side? (this is optional, too) Thanks!
  7. Hi, I am in touch with the Nai´a guys to redeem a prize this summer. My idea was combining a one week charter in Fiji with one week extension to Tonga to see humpbacks, but they have told me they are not doing the whale safari this year due to problems with the local authorities. They also said they are unsure about whether next year will be able to restore the operation. Does somebody know something about this? Thank you.
  8. It´s gonna be crowded down there, guys!!! Gotta go macro, I guess
  9. David, you´re a "brasas" color coding for the MC-30 is: yellow-ground violet-shutter white-AF I don´t remember whether I solded together ground and AF or shutter and AF. Give it a try to both configurations... http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/F100/diy_04.htm
  10. Hi David (and also Alex, who has been waiting for ages for this diagram -sorry Alex!-) you need to wire this two pins: And as Jean says, whichever cord is OK since you only need to work with two wires (trigger and ground) I remember there were poles in the Shearwater, but the ball in the end was rotating freely and it was kind of frustrating to keep the rig in horizontal position in the water. Maybe some duct-tape might do the trick... You are running out of time, mate
  11. That´s right, Alex, the ones in the middle are mine!!! But those are the ones I modified for my seacams, that will screw in front of them... Here you have how the SV will have to be cut to fit the Inons, with a different system, as commented above: What you see standing by are a couple of PVC reductions (50 to 32 and 32 to 20 -european size-) that will fit in the snoot without any need for machining, so you can effectively reduce the beam angle (also function of the lengh of the snoot itself -longer now and therefore helping to narrow the angle even further-) and the distance flash-to-subject Here you can see them mounted: The final diameter is a little bit smaller than a one and a half liter Coke bottle´s cap, as you can see in the photo. I am pretty sure you can go even narrower with further attachments, but I found that careful placement of the flash usually is enough for getting the desired effect. In fact, I´d rather prefer this system because, by carrying the PVC bushels in my BCD´s pocket, I am also able to have a wider beam should I need it; keep in mind that snoots are not only useful for macro!!! (this photo made finalist in the BBC Wildlife, portraits category):
  12. Hi, I can confirm that the SV snoot works with the Inons; I do use it. You only need to work a small modification: if you take a look at the photo, you will see that the part that fits into the flash has 4 small cuts that make for 2 short sections and 2 long sections; you need to cut the long ones so only the 2 small ones protude. This ones will secure the snoot over the rubber ring in front of the Z240 without any noticeable light spillage. Fit is very snug and you´ll need to exhert some force to mount them, but for my it´s OK since it prevents them from getting lost. Please note this snoot does not come with grid, that you will need to either buy separately or DIY. Hope this helps.
  13. Hi all, For what I´ve red, there are quite a few in-camera considerations for later successfully coming up with a panorama in PS (the following seems to apply to land photography): 1-Using a tripod 2-Leveling the camera 3-Overlaping 20-30% of the shots 4-Shooting vertical despite you´re looking for an horizontal panorama (to reduce distortion) 5-Shooting manually with parameters (speed, f, WB) set to a compromise in between all the segments 6-Going longer than 35mm in focal lenght to reduce distortion 7- Pivoting the lens around a nodal point to reduce distortion effects of parallax So far so good, but now I want to translate this UW for shooting a large panorama of an UW mountain that must be more than 100m long and I sincerely have no idea of how undertaking it: -Mountain base is quite deep (>50m) so tripod seems not to be the way to go (I know it has been use in shallower water with wrecks, ie) and therefore parallax and assembly problems will be high -Going longer than 35mm UW is no option, but I doubt in between tokina 10-17 (at 17 barrel distortion is bereable) or Nikkor 12-24 -How may shots for section do you estimate I´ll be needing to have chances of coming up with the panorama? Do I need to stick to the nodal point theory or I could just swim all along the wall making photos at the same distance/depth? Or should I just drop this crazy idea? (last but not least ) Hope to get your input, guys!!!
  14. Hi, I would take the Fisheye Dome if you decide to sell separately Regards.
  15. Hi, Alex I do have both the straight and angled Seacam viewfinders and I am happy with both. I guess Subal´s are comparable. For macro and general wide angle, I´ll rather stick with the angled one. If you are shooting moving targets, the straight one is absolutely the only way to go (this is the one I took to Bahamas ) Therefore, nothing really new to add to what has been said in the forums before, but my first hand experience with both... In the Canary Islands I would say I use the angled one 80% of the times... Enjoy the trip...
  16. up, up Tihs magnificent light is still for sale.. what about 450 USD???
  17. Hi, Bruce Seacam does, but give it for granted that not at a cheap price!!! http://www.seacam.com/en/blitze/system_blitz_nikon.htm
  18. Here you have more photos: -General "diving with tigers" photos: http://www.forobuceo.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=46825 - Emma´s photos: http://www.forobuceo.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=46826 Hope you like them!!!
  19. Hi, guys not many more to be added to this comprehensive report. An incredible experience highly advisable for others!!! Thumbs up for Jim and his amazing crew too. Without them nothing would have been possible! And thank you too to Alex for his advice and patiente with me while together Most important of all, the opportunity to meet such a group of photo freaks!!!: Marc, John, Paul, Chris, Bess & Robin. Ya´ miss you, guys... I am still working in my web page, but in the meantime you can see some of my keepers in the spanish forum I do participate in: Cover Shot: http://www.forobuceo.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=46709 Lemmon Sharks in Tiger Beach: http://www.forobuceo.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=46718 Dolphins: http://www.forobuceo.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=46749 Night dives in the Golf current: http://www.forobuceo.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=46751 Regards.
  20. Hi, David, as you can see in this thread, I have changed my macro rig and I rather prefer having a smaller focus light to reduce the weight of the whole thing: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25099 Otherwise, totally happy about the Fisheye performance. Rgds.
  21. Hi, guys Question is: I am leaving this friday to Bahamas with Wetpixel expedition and Seacam wanted 1500 USD for a remote control to shut my camera remotely (from the polecam) Since I have a remote Nikon cable (MC-30) and noted that the right bulkhead (S6) of my housing had 4 cables loose, i thought I might be able to set up the rig myself. As you can see, I have already connected the remote plug that goes into the camera inside the housing with the wiring (the MC30 uses 3 cables to fire the camera). Connecting the MC-30 shutter release to an S6 cable that goes into the bulkhead as normally, actually fires the camera (only issue is that I can not override the AF mode, but I will pre focus to the hyperfocal on land and set the camera in manual, so no problem here) The point is that I would like to have a "clean" connection. That is, a cable that simply has the MC30 shutter in one side and the S6 socket in the other one, so I do no have to worry about connections getting loose while shooting (I have tried to connect 2 S6 cables one to the other so I have lengh enough for the pole cam, but does not seems to be failure proof) Here are the 2 connectors involved: Does somebody know how to open the S6 socket and whether I could mount it again on another cable while being yet waterproof? thank you!!!
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