Jump to content

pablo

Member
  • Content Count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About pablo

  • Rank
    Lionfish

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    Salt Lake City

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony HDR-SR1
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite 6038.90
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Fixeye HG20DX
  1. U/W VIDEO SYSTEM FOR SALE (Minus SR1 Camera - if Camera Wanted, Add $700) System Used on 2 Dive Trips ---------------------------------------------- 1396 Ikelite Model #6038.90 Housing (for Sony HDR-SR1 Camera) 45 Ikelite Red Color Correction Filter to Fit Standard Port 300 Ikelite W-20 Wide Angle Lens w/Carrying Pouch, Covers 85 Ikelite Red Color Correction Filter to Fit W-20 1200 2 Fisheye HG20DX Halogen U/W Lites w/Spare Battery for Each 100 2 Daylight Temperature Color Filters for Fisheye Lights 150 Inon UCL 330 U/W Closeup Lens w/Carrying Pouch, Covers 100 Expodisc W/B Custom U/W Sealed Mount for Standard Port 350 Expodisc W/B Custom U/W Sealed Mount for W/A Lens 110 Pelican #1610 Hard Case for Camera and All Equipment 100 Misc Caps, GorillaPod, etc. ===== ============================================================= 3936 Total Spent Please make an offer. This rig works great, is less than 1 1/2 yrs old. (Giving up diving due to wife's situation.) Contact Info: Paul Sharp 1218 S. 1300 E. Salt Lake City, UT 84105 801-463-7940 111@kream.com
  2. Thanks - couldn't find my post this morning but looked around until I found it here. Wonder what I should ask for the whole thing?
  3. I want to sell my complete rig (except for the camera, unless the buyer wants that too). Adding a list and what I paid. What kind of percentage of the amount would those of you with more expereience recommend to ask based on what was paid/market conditions, etc.? And is there a separate forum to list for sale rigs? U/W VIDEO SYSTEM FOR SALE (Minus SR1 Camera - if Camera Wanted, Add $800) System Used on 2 Dive Trips ---------------------------------------------- 1396 Ikelite Model #6038.90 Housing for Sony HDR-SR1 Hard Disk (30 GB) Drive Camera 45 Ikelite Red Color Correction Filter to Fit Standard Port 300 Ikelite W-20 Wide Angle Lens w/Carrying Pouch, Covers 85 Ikelite Red Color Correction Filter to Fit W-20 1200 2 Fisheye HG20DX Halogen U/W Lites w/Spare Battery for Each 100 2 Daylight Temperature Color Filters for Fisheye Lights 150 Inon UCL 330 U/W Closeup Lens w/Carrying Pouch, Covers 100 Expodisc W/B Custom U/W Sealed Mount for Standard Port 350 Expodisc W/B Custom U/W Sealed Mount for W/A Lens 110 Pelican #1610 Hard Case for Camera and All Equipment 100 Misc Caps, GorillaPod, etc. ===== ============================================================= 3936 Approximate Total Spent
  4. I put it all in the NLE and looked at it. I couldn't detect any except with the Ike W/A W-20 on top of the Inon 330 C/U lens.
  5. Well thanks for the input. I'll be finding out here in about 3 weeks. It will be interesting to see.
  6. Still wondering if some of you experts could mention what differences, if any, I might expect to see in vignetting and W/A imaging underwater v. the on-land tests I mentioned in the previous message.
  7. Here's an update. I finally got the pieces (including one of those nifty small tripods everyone has been talking about here and getting a custom milled piece to mount it on my main horizontal housing bracket). Unfortunately, due to schedule and other factors I wasn't able to run tests in the pool itself. I did run some tests on dry land though (in my house, i.e.). Here's the list of components used: - Sony SR1 AVCHD Camera - Ikelite SR1 Housing (#6038.90) - Ikelite W-20 W/A Lens - Inon UCL-330 Closeup Lens 1 - I tested with just the Ikelite W-20 W/S lens on the housing, and saw no vignetting or edge distortion - which is the same I observed on my last dive trip where I first used the rig (all U/W shots were taken with the W/A lens). So the Ike W/A W-20 lens works well with this housing and camera combination, for any that are interested in knowing that. It does have the usual W/A distortion from the middle outwards - so if you test like I did with a square sign you see the difference, but that's what I'd expect from any W/A lens. 2 - I then tested with just the Inon UCL-330 closeup lens. That looked good at full wide, and zoomed in as far as I could go I could get focus around 6-8 inches from the lens. I saw no vignetting - even at full wide. 3 - Then I screwed the Ike W-20 W/A lens onto the Inon C/U lens. With that combination I got vignetting like crazy at full wide and quite a ways down into C/U zoom. However, I could zoom in tight and really get a monstrous magnification of something v-e-r-y small only 3 inches away! So that's something to remember if I were to come across a need for it. ================= I have a big question for those with more experience: what might I expect to have seen different if I were to have run these same tests underwater?
  8. Well I certainly hope you are right. But too many of the TSA (and FAA, too) people are nincompoops who don't read, don't understand, and simply do what the latest interpreter of rules tells them. In my experience, the "interpreters" are also closed-minded. Generally, if you want to refer to any copy of the rules with these people, you've probably already in a situation where you're going to lose. I am a pilot and have found over many years' experience that the FAA is one of the worst, absolute worst government bureaucracies in existence. My experience with the TSA hasn't given me any faith in their being better.
  9. I admit not having read the actual rule, but the sites I've checked all say you can only care 2 spare batteries - not just a limit of 25 whatever it is in ratings. To me that means it doesn't matter if 50 batteries are under the rating limit - you can only have 2 spares, period! This is as asinine as most other stuff from the TSA and FAA.
  10. Where you go may influence your choice of using the Pelican or other similar cases. They "advertise" something expensive that's easily stolen. There have been some serious problems at some locations such as San Juan, PR. After reading some of the horror stories, I've left my "Pelican-like" case at home and taken the serious (expensive) stuff with me as far as I can in carry-on luggage. I have insurance, but it's far more trouble and expense replacing the stuff than it would be worth to me if I had to make a claim compared to not having things stolen int he first place. Just a thought.
  11. OK - I think I get what you're saying now. In some cases you can get a WB if there was one earlier on, whereas right down from the top you might not be able to get it. I can see where that could happen as the differences hitting the algorithm might be too great for it to even try. Thanks.
  12. I was trying to say what I was thinking - possibly "dangerous" as my wife might say. I meant that if you leave it on AWB then the camera is continually correcting, isn't it? But if you (with the camera in manual mode) do a MWB, then it just makes a correction matching the instantaneous conditions? Probably shouldn't have thrown that in as it muddies the question. My overall question is if the camera reads the conditions and makes a correction based on preconceived algorithms in the software which react to what is seen through the lens to the CCDs (or whatever receiving device the lens sends it to), I can't understand why it would make any difference whether you did it 10 times each ten feet along the way down to 100 feet or just did it once at 100 feet - if the scene and lighting were exactly the same at the 100-foot mark why should it make any difference? And I'm assuming the balance being set on the same white medium in this example - everything the same except that you do it a few times on the way down v. once when you get there and MWB in every case (no AWB in this case to foul up the experiment). Why would it make a difference how often you did a MWB on the way down v. once at the target depth? Please - not questioning your experience or veracity. The questions are spawned from my ignorance; in fact I remember reading similar input from someone else on the forum. I've learned a great deal from reading what you and others here have posted. In this case I'm trying to understand what the physical phenomenon is that would make the difference. PAUL
  13. My Ike housing is a fairly new model, having come out just last November (one year ago), but I don't know if they made any "modifications" WRT the port and W/A stuff. I'm going to the pool for a practice session in early January. I'll try to get a card or something that will show sharpness around the edges (if anyone has a suggestion as to what to use and where to get it I'd appreciate thoughts on that) - or fuzziness as the case may be. I'll do some shots with and without the Ike W-20 W/A, then add the Inon closeup filter to the W/A lens and shoot again. Then I can post here and all can see what I get. (I'm shooting HD with a Sony SR1.)
  14. I have a question, Nick, on what you said about big jumps in MWB. I can't imagine what the technical reason is for that. Can you explain it? It would seem that if you do a WB you get "balanced" and why should the camera have a problem with it whether it's a big jump or a little one? Don't the electronics react the same way every time? I've read this before here on the forum but have never understood it. Why would Auto WB make any difference other than it continually corrects while MWB does an instant in time?
  15. I have the Ikelite W/A lens that I bought from them: W20 I believe the model number is. I haven't noticed any softness around the edges. I am no expert, though, and only used it on one trip to Tahiti so far. But nothing I saw showed fuzziness. I don't know how it would look if I were to shoot a focus card or something like that.
×
×
  • Create New...