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Karl last won the day on April 27 2013

Karl had the most liked content!

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About Karl

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    Wolf Eel
  • Birthday 06/25/1965

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  • Location
    Rockingham, Western Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea DX-1G
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    YS 27
  1. I dive a lot in Cockburn Sound, Western Australia where on a good day the vis is 4m and an exceptional day it is 6m but on average it is <4m and green with lots of silt and floaty bits. On my EM-5 I have the 60mm macro and the 12 - 50mm and I use the 12 - 50mm almost entirely all the time in these waters with it locked into the macro mode (43mm). The 60mm is a fantastic lens but you have to be too far back from some subjects that you are shooting through too much water and crud whereas the 12-50mm (in macro) allows you to reduce that water column and get close to the subject. If you can't use the 12-50mm lens then the Panasonic 45mm would fit the bill for you. Karl
  2. Be aware of Eneloops as well as there are some fake ones out there on Fleabay etc that are causing allsorts of issues as well with over gasing and poping 'O' rings - I had it happen to me (saved the strobe) and I know of one other who had both strobes flooded. Karl
  3. I have had mine 'freeze' on me twice. Once when I was playing around with it topside and I had to turn it off and remove the battery for a minute or so and the second time when I was underwater and I turned it on and it didn't come on so I abandoned the dive. I removed the battery but it didn't start so when I got home I inserted my other battery and it worked. I am thinking it is a battery issue and have since bought some after market ones which I have just started using. Checkout Scubaboard as there is a big thread on there about this issue - it isn't an isolated issue. Karl
  4. I can recommend Liberty Dive Resort - it is clean and comfortable, the dive guides are excellent and the rest of the staff are just like family. It is a short down hill walk to the entry point for the Liberty Wreck and all other sites they transport you there by a small truck. The food in the restaurant is good - nothing super special but good - or it is a short walk into town for the restaurants there. Karl
  5. You need to focus with the wet lens first before using the camera's auto focus. By that I mean you need to move the camera back and forwards until you get a reasonably clear / sharp image in the LCD and then once you have this then you can focus with the camera. Essentially the camera will be taking a virtual image created by the wet lens and not of the actual subject. To practice take the lens off of the housing and put it next to an object - say your thumb - and them move it backwards and forwards from your thumb and you will see it come in and out of focus (remember it is just a big magnifying glass) there will be a point where it is clear and sharp - this is what you want to achieve when it is on the housing. Also remember with it on the front of the housing you will be a lot closer to your subject. Also once everything is in focus you don't have much room for movement as any slight adjustment and you will need to re focus. Hope this helps. Karl
  6. Most of my mates have either the DS-01 or the Z240. Those with the DS-1 and have no issues with them (I have the YS 110A) but they all use fibre optic cables and not the sync cord. Also the ones using the Z240s have about the same experience with the Z240s. All up I think both are excellent strobes. I will be upgrading to the DS-01 in the near future as the YS 110A are slowly dying Karl
  7. For the EM-5 you need to set the 'Flash' setting to 'Fill Flash' (TTL). Karl
  8. Caroline, I think your shutter speed is too slow - try 1/100 or 1/125 as the out of focus may actually be motion blur. Karl
  9. You do not put the zoom gear on the 60mm lens - the zoom gear is only for the 12 - 50mm - the 60mm just sits inside the port. As to wether you want the flip dioptre is really up to you - if you are going after the really small stuff then you will probably need to use wet lenses but again which ones you need is hard to say. In Sep last year in Tulamben I used both the 60mm lens and the 12 - 50mm lens locked in macro (43mm) for most of my images and found that both had their pros and cons; having said that IMHO the wet lenses may be better with the 12 - 50mm than the 60mm (but others may have different views). Karl
  10. IMHO I would suggest maybe bumping your ISO up to about 400 and using shutter priority set the shutter to about 1/100th to freeze the action and let the camera chose the F stop - test and adjust from there. Karl
  11. Harlequin Shrimp, Tulamben, Bali OMD EM-5 & 12 - 50mm (43mm macro), twin S&S YS 110A snoots F14 @1/100 ISO 200 Snoots at 2/3 power Karl
  12. 1. The white pieces are PVC plumbing fittings. The large piece is a 90 - 75mm drain water fitting and the inside piece is a cap for another size pipe - they are glued together. The YS 110A has a diameter of 78mm so I have lined the inside edge of the pipe with 6mm rubber strip which reduces the size and snuggly fits the strobe. 2. The fibre is 10.7mm solid core fibre - unfortunately I am unsure of manufacturer as a mate did a bulk buy. 3. The base connecters are 1/2" Loc-line Part No 51804 3/8" NPT Connectors 4. The end pieces are 1/2" Loc-line Part No 51802 1/2" Nozzle 5. The blue pieces are 1/2" Loc-line segments Part No 51801 (2 sets per arm). All up total cost to me in AUD is about $100 but I have enough pieces leftover to make / try something else. Karl
  13. Just thought I would share my home made fibre optic snoot I have made for my set up - fits my Sea & Sea YS110A strobes. Have dry tested them and they work well - hoping to wet test them before I head off to Tulamben Bali next week. Karl
  14. I was one of the first to buy from Jeff and at that time he was selling +3 & +6 strength lenses. These are his newest models (version 2) and from what I gather the strength has been increased. Karl
  15. Here is an uncropped image of the Frogfish taken without the dioptres - just with the lens zoomed out to maximum and 'macro' setting turned on. Karl
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