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oskar

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Everything posted by oskar

  1. I tend to agree. I can repeat the problem by pumping down the pressure, and then reverse by releasing the pressure again. This makes me think there's no issues with the batteries. I cannot test actual diving for a longer while alas. If i could, i could test diving without any under pressure in the housing to see what difference that would make. IF the problem is a too soft button that pushes down by pressure, however the effect of the water pushing the buttons should soon overshadow the effect of the vacuum pump and give the same result. For now, the main culprit must be assumed to be a misalignment or bad button. I think i have to do what you suggests, okuma, however I don't know how to check the button play when the housing is closed. I would very much appreciate suggestion for this. How about you Nauticam dealers, how do you analyze issues like this? Cheers/O
  2. I have a crazy issue with my leak sentinel on a Nauticam housing for Olympus OM-D E-M5. My camera malfunctions when pumping the pressure down to green flashing. See my thread here for details: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53344 This seems crazy to me, do i have the only pressure sensitive E-M5, is this a result of some too lose buttons? Any ideas? Cheers/O
  3. Two dives today where I repeated the problem on both dives. This brought some more leads. The issue is this: The camera shuts down after sometimes one, but most often repeated shots, at second or third shot in a series. This happens: I take the shot, the rear screen momentarily blacks out, as usual, but instead of showing preview of the shot taken (i've set to 2sec) The camera flashes the "IS1" symbol red on the right side. Blacks out again and shuts down. In order to get started again, I have to cycle the camera on-off again. This happened frequently on both dives today. The housing was not opened between dives. Most shots taken with manual flash 1/64s (to trigger external strobes with fibre) all in M mode with 8m fisheye at 800Iso and f3.5-6 s at 1/20-1/200. Conditions: Fine, water temp from 13-9 degrees centigrade. surface temp about 17 degree centigrade. 2h between dives. Depth 9-30m At home, I opened the housing and tried the camera with the same set-up. The issue does not repeat with the camera outside of the housing!!! Analysis? I initially though that the camera image stabilisation is broken, however it works a charm on land. What can be the issue? I can only conclude that there must be something wrong with the Nauticam housing?!? Issue: Does not like vacuum!!!! Finally I tried to seal the hosing again. No issues. But when activating the vivid housing leak detector, and pumping it to flash green, the problem comes back. And it is repeatable! So, what on erth is this, is really my camera individual pressure sensitive, or could this be a function of one or several stuck buttons? Any ideas for finding out? Cheers/O
  4. I sure understand! If you have been photographing any subjects with subjects filling both the middle of the frame an some parts of the peripheri, that could reveal some difference, right? /O
  5. I've bought it for my NA EM-5 housing and installed it myself. I have dived it a week in arctic conditions (really, but arctic summer!). It has worked great so far. Easy to install and no battery changes so far. No problem in cold water conditions 4-5 degrees centigrade. I would recommend it to anyone so far. My eyes are tricked by the color though, the intense green light color conditions in the waters I was diving made the green flash LED seem orange. For the next version I would recommend a distinctly different flash pattern so one does not have to think about the color. Cheers /O
  6. I've tried to repeat this on land after having stored the batteries in the fridge over night, no problem. So I am leaning towards that maybe there's som problem with the actual on-off lever. It is quite loose and wiggly on my hosing, should it be? Are there any known issues with the on-off lever? The contact surface looks a bit worn, I think that the housing has been closed some times with housing lever and camera in different positions and thus it has become worn and might be loosing grip. Thoughts? Cheers /O
  7. No one had this happen? One other ergonomic issue i've noted is that if I hold the housing with my right hand in thick dry-glove, I often accidentally switch of the camera with my palm. However I don't think this is the case in the above, I have now adjusted the right handle so it is up right next to the housing, which gives some distance to the on/off lever. Cheers /O
  8. I have an issue where it seems like if I take reapeated shots in quick sucession, the camera blacks out and shut down. I suspect it is because the water is a little bit chilly, about 5dgrees centigrade, and I take flash shots in quick sucession. After 3-4 shots, the last shot does not come up in review-mode, but the screen black out once, and then the camera comes up again in camera mode but is unresponsive and then blacks out again. At this point I flip it on and off again, and it is ok. So i suspect that the battery does not deliver enough power when recharging the strobe and the voltage drops so the camera shuts down. However, to contradict that, no battery symbol shows, and I am not shooting in TTL mode, but 1/64 manual mode which should conserve power to some extent. The batteries (both) are originals, only a couple of years old maximum. Cheers /O
  9. Agree, this is where forums like this shines. Have you and more people tried the diopter in the wild yet and possibly have some moore feedback and examples?
  10. About 3:rd party batteries, note that the capacity rating printed on them typically have scant or no relation to reality :-)
  11. Cool, it would be great to see some pictures of the installed detector from one of you EM-5 guys, thanks! Im contemplating getting one myself for peace of mind. It seems to me that because the acrylic in the middle, it could sheer off if hit badly, right? What is keeping the "sandwiched" contruction together? Cheers/O
  12. About a dry bag, it is an extra safety, but it wont help if it leaks at depth, as there will be full ambient pressure on the housing anyway. The dry bag will seem vaccum wrapped onto the camera. Cheers/O
  13. Does the Sony 7s have exactly the same body as the others, and thus fitting the same housings? /O BTW the mirrorless forum is loosing the point if we cannot move the treads from the old DSLR forum, Can someone do this if we just point out the main ones?
  14. Thats a nice size comparison pic. Somethinginteresting happens though if you configure them all for a fisheye / dome option. Anyone seen a pic like that out there somwhere? With fisheye, the compact and m43 are almost on par! Thats a nice size comparison pic. Somethinginteresting happens though if you configure them all for a fisheye / dome option. Anyone seen a pic like that out there somwhere? With fisheye, the compact and m43 are almost on par!
  15. What breaks, the handle itself? What's the weak point? Cheers /O
  16. Is this typical performance with this combination? I thought that i got quite decent corners already at 3.5, but need to check closer! Cheers /O
  17. I'm one of those guys who prepare the husing in a heated room of 24 degrees C then jump into 3 degrees C water ;-) sounds like a case for false negative perhaps
  18. The Leak sentinel system is about half price compared to the cost to retrofit my Nauticam EM-5 housing with the proprietary vacuum systems. What are pros and cons if you compare them? Cheers /O
  19. Ok thanks, as you seem to have found out the nodal points of the domes must be corrected with extensions to coincide with the lens' nodal point otherwise the results will always be bad. So there could be hope for the 4.33" maybe? Anyone that have a couple of 20mm extensions lying around to test? Edit: could i ask you to measure the 4" port length from base to, say inside top of dome?
  20. Yes, + 1 on that it would be very interesting to see how the works with the 4.33" (+ some extensions) Another useful piece of information would be to get the optical dimensions of the 4" port, as compared to the others. I suppose length from port mount to dome top would be useful for comparison. And dome radius. However I've heard that the 4.33",3.5" and 4" ports all have the same dome radius but I don't know if that is correct.
  21. Greit experiment! So your conclusion is to always use the +2, right? Part from the added distorsion, what are the drawbacks of the diopters? What is the actual subject distance by the way? How does the distortion look change with the diopters, more barrel-like? Cheers /O
  22. Yes, especially as it is a statement of fact, the forum is already common. The forum "liquidity" does not vouch for further splitting, IMHO. A side track: My experience is that there is less discussions here than a coupe of years ago. Why is that? Less interest in UW photography or are discussions held elsewhere (where?)? Or am I just mistaken :-)
  23. Nice,could you add the details for those please, are all those f2.0? On the large-animal photos you don't notice any corner softness for natural reasons, but on close focus it is quite marked
  24. It would be interesting to try the 9-18 behind the 3,5 dome. I would be happy it it was possible to optimize fore the wide end and just use that, skipping zoom. Providing that part of the soft corners are caused by lens nodal point being off the dome's optical center. As i mentioned: i've been suggested 2 20mm extensions + the 4.33" dome should work with the 9-18. That would be interesting to get a second opinion on. Cheers EDIT: A measurement of the nodal point shift of the 9-18 (and other lenses) can be found here: http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E_System or http://forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/attachments/discussion/41308d1328482916-finding-nodal-point-panoramas-less-equipment-nodal-points.pdf The nodal variation is 6mm between the ends of the zoom, is that excessive? /O
  25. Capital DIY! And just in time, now lets see if you dare house the camera in the first dive! Cheers! /O
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