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Everything posted by oskar

  1. I think there are not enough followers to slice and dice this community in a lot of sub forums. Two are enough. One compact/fixed lens forum and one System camera forum. I can skip subjects not directly in my interest. I'm happy to call these whatever, as long as this is the gist. The system issues and solutions are similar for all of these, mirror or not. Cheers /O
  2. I'm asking for my old camera (I've also got a m4/3 now, but forge about that now). The dodgy thing about this wet lens is the comment 84degrees in water and 106,5 on land. This is the only comment specifying in water. So the magnification doesn't seem trustworthy after that. If this is right, I agree the dome would have been better, and a proper WA lens would have been better still. Cheers /O
  3. Great! It seems like a great difference. So is it right to say that the +5 diopter makes the corner sharper at all subject distances? So I should get a diopter at the same time as a lens! Is there any drawbacks getting the actual 46mm diopter and not use stepring? B+W 46mm Close-up +5 Lens (NL5) EDIT: 1/3 stop loss light is great compared to stopping down 3 stops to get sharper corners! Cheers Oskar
  4. Thanks alot Coroander! I had some hopes of getting usable result almost wide open, but it probably takes another dome with bigger radius then. The diopter would help most at close focus, or also at medium distance, what do you recon? The dome's virtual image when the subject is at infinity is still quite close, isnt it? My mate that I use as reference, that get good results all the way up to 2.0, did not know what dome he uses, "Old Olympus" which then probably is a large Zen or Athena dome. But, It seems like decent results anyhow, so'Ill get the 12 as a compliment to my fisheye now anyway and see how it goes. BTW something that would be very useful is some proper dome port data on the Nauticam ports (and others for that matter). I'd like to know the radius and optical node for the ports to be able to predict results. for example, what radius and optical nod distance from the sensor is the 4.33" fisheye dome and the 3.5" dome? Cheers /O
  5. Thanks, that seems about right as the camera's wide end is 24mm equiv. Which also means that now that i transitioned to EM5 m43, the 12mm (24eqv) should work with the same type of documentation images.
  6. How well does the 12mm f2 perform with the small Nauticam 4.33" dome with respect to corner sharpness and maximum usable aperture with that respect? I expect that your larger ZENdome allows usage of larger apertures than the smaller 4.33" dome? However, for me it might still be worthwhile getting the 12 f2 as I have the 4.33 dome anyway. I would be using the 12 f2 for documentation, (maritime archaeology) so sharpness is an issue, and so is light EDIT: I saw below that you have first hand experience of with the 4.33" dome as wel Phil, how do they compare? http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-403387.html Cheers /O
  7. I have a Sea & Sea we lens made for the compact cameras DX-1G/2G. I though it was equivalent to a 16mm (35mm film lens), but reading the specs it does not seem that impressive any more: To me it seems like it is in fact only 24mm equivalent in water. Like I would care that it is a 16mm in air :-). Am i reading the specs right? Check this out: [Lens] 3 elements in 3 groups [underwater angle of view] 85° (106.5° on land) [Magnification] 0.65x [Depth rating] 60m / 200ft [Weight] Approx. 406g / 14.2oz (underwater: Approx. 230g / 8.1oz) [Dimensions (DIAxD)] 97x48.5mm / 3.9x1.9 inch http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/compact/accessory/001.html#52116 Cheers O
  8. Interesting combo! It will be interesting to see how it performs and what maximum aperture it is still good! /O
  9. Hi! I'd like to get a Nauticam port and gear (for Panasonic m4/3 7-14 zoom) while my sister is in NY city next week and is acting courier. Are there any store options there? Or if not what online store would you recommend that would have good shipping times? Cheers /O
  10. Perhaps not a preferred wideangle, but I have the panasonic pancake 14mm f2.5 for stealthy topside lens. I've seen it in Nauticam's port-chart recommended with the 3.5" dome. How does it perform UW? Could it also work with the 4.33" dome? Has anyone here tried that lens with it's wide-angle addition lens? Cheers /O PS I wish there was a m43 prime around 7-9mm....
  11. Good to se your experimenting on! Just very quick comment: A flash tube does not work like a light bulb with different power ouputs. The flash tube is a gap when not ignited, once the tube ignites and the plasma is created, it acts basically like a short circuit. If you get a smaller tube, it has different characteristics, like what voltage you need to ignite it, and what power it can handle without beeing damaged. But once you ignite it it is basically a short circuit just like the bigger tube, but probably slighly lower resitance still. It will empty you capacitor completely if not quenched by a cicuit. Cheers /O
  12. It would be great If you could reverse engineer the pin layout and protocoll for controlling the flash! This would open up some options for sure. My thinking is that it would be possible to do a simple LED TTL strobe as it seems to me that all logics are in the camera, so that the camera control the strobe with a trigg and quench signal. (I'm guessing based on images earlier in the thread.) It would be good if you got the oportunity to take some more pics on the hotshoe connections and the circuits top and bottom. For making a LED strobe, i would choose to use a separate lithium battery, but I suppose it should be possible to use the camera battery to, as there must be a pin with the 4.2 V from the camera battery for charging the the standard flash. However, I have made good with non-TTL for now, so maybe I should try to se if I like it before building something elaborate :-) BTW, interesting mod on the RX100mk2, As it does have a hotshoe it seems better to use a microstrobe rather than to cripple it. However, it's an excelent mof for the mk1 without hotshoe!
  13. I should probably clarify the reason that I am asking this. I have been offered to buy the 9-18 + 2 20mm extension rings to be used with the 4.33" dome. The seller is also an agent for Nauticam and claims that Nauticam has confimed that this combination works well. However, as Nauticam does not officially support this I would like to hear second opinions to this combination. Just looking at pictures it also seems to me that the radius i different for the 4.33" dome and the 4" port. If this is right it seems less plausible that the above combination would be good. Cheers /O
  14. About using the 9-18 behind different domes as I still have this offer on the table: How is the 9-18 corner sharepness and close focus limit behind the recommended 4" port? Are the 4.33" dome and the 4" dome port same radius but different width? Are the information of the Nauticam ports available somewhere? The Nauticam site is quite breif in that matter Cheers O
  15. Thanks for the test and info, I saw your thread only now but it is very interesting. I can confirm your findings that: 1 electronic flashes controll power by time by quencing the flash. On a strobe i have the time(power) ranges from 1/20000s to about 1/800s 2 if you limit the energy of a flash by the capacitor, you will loose out one the maximum possible duration (power) I'm interested to know how the electronics of the flash looks like and what pins they are using if you have any pictures? I made a microstrobe for my previous compact camera using the standard mid pin. this gave a 1ms pulse. I used this to trigger a little laser. This gave only manual control which I am happy with, and about 5000 triggers on one battery :-) Now I just got a EM-5. I'm curious on the efficiency of the standard strobe at 1/64, and I am thinking of making a micro strobe for this one too. However your TTL experiment is interesting, As well a quenching the flash tube, the camera can quenche a LED or laser. Cheers /O
  16. Could the 714 be used with the 4.33" Nauticam dome + some extensions? Edit: Sorry, i meant the Panasonic m4/3 7-14 zoome with the above question. But perhaps the answer is the same anyhow? //O
  17. No experiences with the 9-18 with the below combination? How about the 7-14, is it possible to use it behind the 4.33 dome and some combination of extensions? Cheers /O
  18. Thanks, are you reffereing to my option there with the 9-18 behind the 4.33" dome and two 20mm extensions? That it needs to move out another 4mm to get sharp? Thanks! /O
  19. I am about to buy a EM-5 kit with the 8mm fisheye and 4.33" dome. I have been offered to also buy the 9-18mm compact WA zoom, zoom gear and two 20mm extension rings, The extension rings is supposed to make the 4.33" port work equally well as the dedicated port for the 9-18. I originally intended to eventually get the 12mm f2 for use under the same dome as the fisheye for moderate WA. 1. What is the current experience of the 9-18 mm WA? I have been surfing the treads, but not found much current comments on it. There seems to be a preference for the 7-14 Panasonic in this case, in the early comments. Anyone here using it now and what are your views? (Please link if already commented in another thread.) 2. Is the option with two extension rings on the 4.33" dome as good as the dedicated dome/port for this lens? 3. Should I hold off and get the 12mm as planned? (this is a matter of personal opinion I know, but anyway)? Cheers /O
  20. Great! What is the cost? You are installing the valve and replacing the moisture detector with the vacuum leak detector I suppose (and get the manual pump)? Cheers /O
  21. Has anyone sucessfully installed a vacuum system on the Nauticam EM-5 housing? I saw comments that Nauticam's own electronics does not fit the housing. Is this still the case, or is there a solution for it now? Cheers /O My apologies if this is already answered in this thread already, it's a bit long to browse...
  22. Are you happy with your current cameras field of view in wide angle? These options give you about the same as currently, but if you want to go wider, the solution differs in these options. Cheers
  23. Haha great! The definitive gallows humor for a UW-photographer. (Or sould it be flooding-humor..) //O
  24. A question, what do you find is the maximum ok aperture for the 12mm 2.0 and the 8mm fisheye with that 4.33" dome? Cheers /O
  25. These look like seriously fun cameras, but the question is if they are going to be a hit underwater. It will be interesting to see if any third party is going to provide any UWA or fishe eye that would be useable under water. /O
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