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Schwob

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About Schwob

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  1. Well, thanks! There it is. Duh! I did not think so but looked again with magnification (no chance, just not enough contrast) ,,,a flshlight did the trick. room ighting just would not let me see it.
  2. Where is the serial number located on a YS-D2 (J)? I seem to be missing it in the manual, on the housing, in the battery compartment, under the connector cap or mounting foot ... and sure could use a pointer as to where it is to be found.
  3. Thanks. That's pretty much exactly what I figured after I read the D2J comes with 2 diffusers, one of which reduces the linear distance output by two stops.... .... but then things got weird ... in a good way... "Santa" splurged and agreed to getting 2 of the nice strong strobes...
  4. Answering my own question here in case someone wonders about the same: Learned from ScubaBoard that the YS-D2J is yellow and that the initial D2s were black.
  5. @Barmaglot: Yes, it seems that little assembly makes sense... yet lacking experience with it I may just have to try it both ways. That SeaFrogs housing BTW does feel big in my hand... but having more direct feedback than with an added mechanism also seems to have benefits ... not sure it really matters ... will need to find out I guess... @Clownfish : Your actual experience very much reflects what I've been thinking ... and hopefully gain actual experience on around year's end when my slowly taking shape new set-up will finally get wet... Until then I am just quite uncertain what makes more sense to me... so I thought I try to learn from "pre-existing esxperience". All: If you do hold on the upright post and do use such a trigger assembly: Do you manage to half-press pre-focus well with that trigger? Or do you use back button focus? If the latter, how do you do that with your hand on the upright post? - I mean there is no way to reach then... - or? Sorry if these questions appear stupid... probably because they are... just trying to wrap my head around it a little better to get started...
  6. In a setup with tray, left upright, right upright and (somewhat large-ish but still just "holdable") housing inbetween: Do you - 1 - move the right upright further out and hold the housing to reach the shutter button, or do you - 2- hold the right upright and use some sort of installed trigger contraption to get to the shutter button - 3 - or? Edit: Did you try both? Which do you prefer and why?
  7. Asking the below because I am wondering if I can upgrade from a single YS-03 to ultimately i.e. 2 Ys-D2 by buying one YS-D2 first and somehow pairing it in a way that makes sense with the YS-03 before I am ready to spend money on a second big flash. I am intentionally asking in a way that may help me better (with the answers) to understand what is going on.. So, I am trying to figure out my gradual upgrade path options and to understand: My limited beginner understanding is (everything is a question here, as I might be quite wrong in my understanding): - that I could pair my YS-03 with a (yet to obtain if it currently was in stock anywhere) YS-01 even in manual mode if I slave the YS-03 off the YS-01 set to manual. Then the YS-03 will put out light with the same flash duration as the YS-01 and because they use the same flash bulb the output will be close enough to the same - will be matched to each other. - which leads me to think that if I were to pair my YS-03 with a yet to obtain YS-D2 instead, but in the same manner that I will get flashes of the same duration out of each device, but of differing intensity since the YS-D2 has a bunch more power. Is that possibly the right thought? - If so and if that difference is less than 2 F-stops, could I then crank the exposer compensation on my YS-03 up to match the two ... except of course my YS-03 does not have such a pretty knob... ---- and cranking anything down on the YS-D2 won't do any good because it will only change duration not brightness and the thereoff slaved YS-03 will only match the light pulse duration. - Which leads me to think that I cannot match those two flashes using them in manual mode, slaving the YS-03 from the Ys-D2 unless I have a neutral density filter or scuvh to rob the YS-D2 of the amount of light necessary to even their output at the same duration... - And if so, is it pretty much the same if I ran each in e-TTL indipendently triggered off the clamera flash ?
  8. Is there a way to tell with certainty if a YS-D2 is made in Japan (is a so called YS-D2J with supposedly less issues than the alternative is said to have (no first hand experience)) indeed - or is not really a YS-D2J? By that I mean by looking at the actual unit, not by looking at accompanying printed matter. Asking because if I choose to go that route used or new, It would help to know how to tell the difference.
  9. Hi there. I am Ralf from greater Chicagoland putting my first sort of full fledged UW camera gear together in preparation for an upcoming trip... Decided I may need to ask for a little help on telling a "YS-D2 non J" from a "YS-D2J" ... but will ask that question officially on the Stobes / lighting forum. The trip will be to the Philippines and that will be a first as well.
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