danclem

We have been contacted by a company interested in purchasing photos or videos of albacore and/or skipjack tuna. If you have in water images of these fast moving fish and are interested in generating some income from these photos or videos, please drop me an email, and we will put you in touch with the company’s contact person for this project. Thanks! Dan Clements 425.418.8755 dan@e-clements.com

Spokane author Anna Marlis Burgard is working on a concept book about islands that will be featured in publications like National Geographic Traveler, and American Airlines magazine Celebrated Living. Anna is looking for underwater and bioluminescence images for the following islands: Washington: Vashon, Bainbridge, Orcas, Lummi, Whidbey, and Burrows; Alaska: Baranof and Spruce; Hawaii: Oahu, Molokai, and Maui. The deadline to submit photos is September 7, 2013, and she is looking at a $50-$100 honorarium for images used in the project. In addition to bioluminescent critters, she is interested in marine animals that represent these islands. If you are interested, please contact Dan Clements at dan@e-clements.com about how to submit images.

Don't know what strobes you use, but mine are twin Ikelite 125's, and I have never had a problem in the five years I have dived and shot with the Sol. I really suspect the issue is the battery in the sending unit. I have had a couple of bad replacement batteries over the years, which caused reception issues. Cleared right up when I replaced it with a good battery. Hope you get it sorted out. The Sol and accompanying software have been the best I have used.

NAUI is a good organization, but the rules in their current "Just Dive" photo contest do not show the organization's better side. As you can see from the terms and conditions below, anyone who submits photos loses the right to use these images, unless they receive permission from NAUI. This transfer of copyright and ownership not only violates industry standards, it is ethically absurd to have to contact NAUI to obtain permission to show or use images that a photographer has taken. Below is the contest wording. "The act of submitting photos constitutes an agreement that the ownership of materials transfers to NAUI and that they are free of copyright restrictions and may be published by NAUI in any media without further compensation. By entering you give NAUI the perpetual, exclusive rights to use the photo in any way, including but not limited to advertising and promotional use." If you would like to let NAUI know how you feel about this type of unethical contest restriction, you might want to send them an e-mail requesting they drop the transfer of ownership provision for future contests. Additionally, you may also want to e-mail the companies who have donated prizes, and let them know about the negative impact this has on underwater photographers. Here is the contact information: NAUI: nauihq@naui.org Prize Providers: Alton's Dive Center:info@diveinutila.com Ikelite: ikelite@ikelite.com Black Beard Cruises: ws@blackbeard-cruises.com Kosrae Village: info@kosraevillage.com Stuart Cove: info@stuartcove.com Sea & Sea: info@tusa.com

Hi Steve: Good information, but it is for larger subjects. He is using either a 60 mm for small critters (1-3 inches), and a Tokina 10-17 for larger. My subjects start at about an inch and get smaller, hence the 105 mm. I guess I will just keep working at it. Thanks, Dan

Thanks for the thoughts. John: you got some great shots on Pelagic Magic. I think my Hartenburger works OK for the focus light. The problem here is shooting during the day. Sounds similar to your issues in Kona. The focus framing prongs also look interesting. Think I will try and construct something along these lines with a black slate that emulates the black glove approach, but is attached to my housing. Thanks, Dan

Hi All: Anyone have any words of wisdom photographing small, translucent invertebrates (like 1" jellies), in our Seattle area temperate waters where there is a great deal of detritus and current. Most recently I used my Nikon d300 (cropped sensor), 105 mm lens, auto focus, 60th @ f14. Often times I will focus right through the critter. I have thought about bringing a black slate to place behind the subject for more contrast. Any thoughts? I suppose another option would be to switch to manual focus, rack the focus out, and move my rig to focus. Any help greatly appreciated. The rest of the set-up is a Subal housing, twin Ikelite 125 strobes, one set on full, the other on half power, and a Hartenberger focus light set on 2-3 power. Thanks!

Hi All: Please see post above from Subal regarding a new back for the ND30 housing that fits the D300x. Available in January for about $1,500. Dan

For those of you shooting Nikon D300's in Subal's ND30 housing, and are interested in purchasing a D300x, I thought I would pass the following along from Subal. Good news! Hello Mr. Clements, Thanks for using SUBAL products. At the moment we produce ND300s back parts for upgrading ND300 housings. For your ND30 housing you need a ND30s back part. First delivery of ND30s back parts will be at beginning of January. Suggested retail is about $1550. Best regards, Peter Stangl A. STEPANEK GES.M.B.H Leopold-Werndl-Str. 31 4400 Steyr TEL +43-(0)7252/46424 FAX +43-(0)7252/46424-6 peter@subal.### www.subal.com I have been talking to Berkley and Jim at Backscatter about purchasing a new back for my ND 30 housing so I can use the D300x. Nice to know it won't be necessary to purchase an entirely new housing. I am also pretty sure Ryan at Reef Photo is on top of this. Cheers, Dan

Hi Damo: RAW to TIFF and then to low res JPG for web if needed. My rationale is that TIFF's don't lose quality after each edit save. God Luck, Dan

Second the recommendation about using Spyder to calibrate both lap top and notebook monitors. Easy to use, and the before and after differences are pretty dramatic.

Thanks for the added information. I have not checked the battery cover alignment since I purchased my Sol: will do this evening when I get home. Thanks Again, Dan

Hi Pig004: If you find out what happened, would it be possible to post what caused the issue? Thanks, Dan

I realize that this is an old thread, but thanks for the comments about salt crystals attracting moisture. I have had similar issues. Also, instead of using compressed air froma tank, I use "canned" air. Sprayed from about ten inches the detector will cease blinking in a few minutes. Cheers, Dan

Hey Joe: Thanks for the link to the labeling outfit. I missed out on the Subal custom engraving, so placed an order yesterday for the on-line product. Cheers, Dan