Hidroj

Interesting! Thanks for sharing. Did you try new batteries for the e-Opto? You probably did...

Hy! There seems to be an issue when trying to trigger a non-Retra strobe with the E-Opto converter, depending on the fiber optic cable used between the converter and the strobe. After I finished the first post, test with whom I "luckily" used the Mini-Flash's own fiber optic cable, I decided to dive the strobe using Retra's own fiber optic cable, basically because it is a bit shorter and I thought it would be less disturbing. And, oh surprise!, the strobe stopped triggering. Retra's quick answer to my inquiry was, as expected. "The issue might be due to insufficient sensitivity of the optical sensors on the strobes. As mentioned we guarantee compatibility of the E-Opto converter only with Retra Flash." My second test was changing the fiber optic cable, to see if there could be any difference, and after testing several of them, the third did trigger the strobe. It was Backscatter's Universal Fiber optic cable. Also Ikelite's fiber optic cables worked. I really don't know if there are differences, maybe the diameter of Retra's fiber optical cable, but the issue seems to be solved. Next step will be testing again the e-Opto underwater, but this time with Backscatters Universal Cable. hope it works. Photo attached with Retra's fiber optic cable on the right side, Backscatter's Universal one on the right.

I'm using a D800 Ikelite Housing (FL) and wanted to try the Backscatter Miniflash I initially had been using with a compact system. As Ikelite is not offering any way to convert their electrical signal into an optical one (obviously they want to sell their own strobes), I finally stumbled on Retra's E-Opto Converter. Although Retra says their converter is only working on their own strobe and no tests have been done with other brands, I thought it would be interesting to give it a try. I connected the E-Opto to the i5 Ikelite Sync-cord, the fiber-optic cable (which has the same diameter as the original one) to the MF-1 and the result is that the system works. As expected only manual sync (no TTL), but it works. It's not that cheap, but in my case it has been the only way I found to use an optical much smaller strobe with modelling light for snooting on my Ikelite housing. Some pictures added.

I unboxed the housing but it has never been used underwater. Therefore it could be considered as new. Waterproof down to 60 meters, the housing allows full control of the Olympus TG-5. Price: 280€ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But maybe I could cut a hole into the center...

Yes they are solid! (never lost them). What you say, Duncan, could be an option. And what about the snoot's inner side colour? Any experience?

Hy! I'm having some problems which are probably related to the ring bulb of Ikelite strobe's. When I mount the narrower part of Scuba Symphony's snoots, those which an end around 22m wide, I have a "nice" ring, without any light in the center of the image. The honeycomb doesn't solve the problem. Only after replacing the diffuser on the strobe, the light becomes more or less even. The problem is that with diffuser I practically lose the option of using the strobe's light to know where I'm pointing the snoot to. Any idea? Maybe painting the inner side of the snoots in white or silver (and not black as they are now)? Any help will be appreciated!!! Jordi Without honeycomb With honeycomb And that's the effect underwater

One question: Should the inner side of a DiY Snoot be white? Or better not? I thought that with a white interior the light would maybe reflect better forward..., but maybe not. Has anyone tested the difference? Or is it a silly idea? Thanks to everyone! Jordi

How long did your Ikelite Battery Packs last? I'm using the Ni-Mh packs with two DS-125's, and casually the "newer" one (from June 2007) has significantly shortened it's working time. The older one (bought around the end of 2006 or beginning 2007, can't remember it exactly) still works fine. Is that normal? I've tried to use them both equally. Is it time to buy a new battery pack? Thanks to all! Jordi

Hy to everyone! I upgraded from an Ikelite D70 housing to a D90 housing and one of the big differences is the Strobe compensation Dial. The TTL control worked fine, but (used to the D70 housing) I couldn't manage the proper Manual Control features. Re-reading the housing's instruction manul I saw that I didn't have to switch the strobe's control knob to Full, 1/2, 1/4 or 1/8 power. I had to leave the strobe's dial at TTL and the housing's compensation knob did the work for me, as if I were switching the strobes from full to half, a forth o an eigth of it's power. I've done a test and it works fine, therefore I've decided to post it on the forum. Thought it could be useful for other photographers which upgrade their Ikelite housings from the old iTTL control Circuitry to the new compensation dial and have a similar problem as I had. Jordi Manual Control Test

Thank you very much for your advice, Richard and Mike! Unfortunatelly or not (I think not), I'm using an Ikelite housing. At their port chart, for the Sigma 17-70mm Macro HSM lens they say: "Lens diameter is too large to operate in port system." It's something I really don't understand, basically cause I'm using underwater regularly wider lenses then the Sigma 17-70mm lens, with wider lens and filter diameter (Nikon's 12-24mm). Has anybody used this Sigma lens you recommend inside an Ikelite housing? Is there some information I'm missing to explain why Ikelite says this lens doesn't fit in their port system? Thanks again for any comment! Jordi

Some UW-Photography Contests, held during a single dive, expect from the photographer to shoot different subjects: Macro, complete fish and seascape, for example. And that is only possible with a zoom lens. But which one? Which are you using under this conditions? Which are the sharpest in your opinion? Nikon's 18-70mm 3.5-4.5? Nikon's 18-105mm 3.5-5.6? Nikon's 16-85mm 3.5-5.6? Sigma's 18-50mm 2.8? Has anybody compared them underwater? Any experience? Thank you very much! Any opinion will be apreciated! Jordi

Aiiii, what a pitty! When I read your comment I thought suddenly, wow, maybe I forgot to switch the camera menu to Manual Flash Control! But not... It goes on stopping at 1/500s. Maybe I'll have to try James' tip. Damned, I thought I got it! In any case, thanks for your advice!

D70, Ikelite iTTL Housing Two DS125 strobes For Macro, always TTL With WA, I started with TTL but ended up switching to Manual. It's probably a little bit more complex, but I'm learning much more!! That's why I didn't vote. Like many others, I think. None of both poll options would have been correct! Jordi

Hy to everyone! Some monthes ago, reading the "Sunburst topic", I saw that my D70 is able to synchronize faster then 1/500s. At least that's what Alex Mustard says (and if he does, I'm convinced it works). But, on my last trip, shooting sunbursts, I tried to go faster then 1/500s but the camera refused to go further then 1/500s. Why? Have been looking through the camera's user's manual, but haven't found anything. I'm shooting my D70 inside an iTTL-Ikelite Housing, with two DS-125s. Anybody out there with an answer? Thanks! Jordi