stilly

I have the RX100 VI and went with the Nauticam housing, 2 YS-D2, and a Sola 800 focus light. This rig I use for super macro with the SMC-1 and flip adapter. The focus peaking on the RX100 helps on the accuracy of focus.

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http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63004

Every camera analyzes the scene the exposures a little differently and the output can be completely different. Whether the other people on the trip used strobe or not, it would help! There may be some exposure details set incorrectly on your camera. Playing with your levels & curves can also do a lot of good. Although having the best default image from your camera would of course be the best option. Are you going with AWB or a default setting? I would start from scratch if you can't find anything and go back to the default settings first. With all the variables on today's cameras, sometimes you have to go one by one to figure out what it is. I'm a canon shooter as well...I shoot with a 5D Mark IV and although I almost always shoot with strobe and always RAW. I tweak every shot to bring the curves and levels til it is as good as can be. I think that would improve the quality of your shots dramatically. Also, see if your friends are shooting RAW or JPG. RAW will give you a flatter overall exposure which can look flat or possibly even hazy without strobes. JPGs might initially look better on your camera monitor but you don't have the ability to clean them up like you do in RAW.

I assume you are turning down the camera's flash exposure to -3.0 to speed recycle and extend battery? Or is it something else? Have you used your set up in TTL mode? My RX100 VI is quite accurate in this mode although you won't be able to turn down your in camera flash comp....

The ISO wil control overall exposure, not on the foreground background independently.

Absolutely Chris! Since everything is firing I don't believe there's anything wrong with the strobes or TTL converter. I was just hoping that the camera would interpret the scenes more consistently.

After hearing quite a few people state that the TTL can be fooled so often, I've started experimenting with shooting full manual with my basic shooting distances known between super macro, macro and wide. I really only have to adjust one F stop between those different scenarios. Even if I didn't, I'd still be within the parameters of being able to fine tune exposures in RAW. Meanwhile, the light is so much more consistent & just overall much cleaner! I think I found my solution for my FF DSLR. Meanwhile my Sony RX100 VI works great in TTL.....Go figure!

Absolutely, keeping your monitor calibrated is a big help. If you are using PS or I assume LR as well, I just go to the individual colors in curves and set each individually, it will usually open up the shadows and clear a lot of the color cast up as well! Like I said, great pic!

Great pic! Looked a bit underexposed and I couldn't help myself....Hope you don't mind!

Thanks for your input Chris, I've done the cable swapping & strobe swapping and even tried a new TTL converter. Still getting weird and inconsistent results. This all started after my last dive trip where I had TTL issues. Now I'm trouble shooting above water and wondering if some issues would be different if I was testing underwater. Light is light but currently, I'm thinking manual may just be a better way to go for me.

The internal flash of the camera triggers the external strobes by way of an optical cable. Once the strobes fire, the camera's TTL metering system determines once the sensor gets enough light for the proper exposure. That is my understanding anyway...

I have the RX100 VI and initially thought the same thing, but since you're most likely shooting TTL, the camera will then reduce the external strobes output according to how you've set the compensation.... In other words, the Sony cannot reduce the internal flash output to save battery life unfortunately!

I have a Canon 5D Mark IV with a Sea and Sea MDX 5D housing, Sea and Sea TTL optic converter & 2 YS-D2 strobes. I've been having intermittent problems with exposures in TTL mode for all ranges-macro as well as wide angle. I have all the modes set correctly Blue, blue, blue, but sometimes the left strobe not synching fully or at least exposures are under, or sometimes it looks like they didn't fire at all.... Through process of elimination, I've replaced the converter, swapped cables, even replaced the strobe. If I switch to manual Green, green, green, everything looks much better exposure wise and consistency. I don't mind this but I'm surprised that the TTL isn't working better. I don't think it would be my camera, but anyone with similar gear that could give insight would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all! I am a professional photographer in my life above water and still learning every dive below. I've been a photographer since 1984 and it has became more about making a living than it has been the original reason that got me into photography-PASSION! Now, I'm finding that some initial passion I felt years ago but with my underwater pursuits! Happy to be part of this group and looking forward to learning more everyday!