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About TrimixDiver

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  • Location
    High Springs, FL, USA

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D300
  • Camera Housing
    Sea and Sea MDX 300
  1. I personally would not upgrade to the S model. The D300 is a great camera. Plus, you can pick up used housings now because the D300 has been out awhile. And, I would not use optically triggered strobes for that camera (not even sure there's a housing that offers that option). I have the D300 in a S&S MDX300 housing with two S&S YS110a strobes. I also use DS160s as slave strobes for cave photography, which is what I do most. Here's a link to the gallery on my website. As for lens, I'm using the Tokina 10-17 with the S&S fisheye dome port. Blue Horizon Photography -- Springs and Caves Gallery
  2. Sorry, just saw your reply. Apparently this forum doesn't send notice of reply to post. Thanks, but that's not what I'm looking for. I ended up buying a ULCS 16" arm with adaptors for both the DS 160 and the EV controller. Expensive (about $150 total) but a very nice and flexible unit. With this set up, I can set the strobe where I want and position the EV controller in the correct direction. Without, the DS 160 is buoyant and wont stay in position. Plus, the arm segment makes it easier for a diver model to hold and position where I want light in the image.
  3. Thanks, man, but I found one. Appreciate the reply.
  4. I have a Sea and Sea MDX300 housing and have a few locations I want to photograph that exceed 200 ffw depth. Anyone on here used the MDX300 below 200'? My max depth would probably be about 240 ffw at the one location I have in mind. Thanks!
  5. I'm looking for two Ikelite arm segments that will take a DS160 and Ikelite EV controller. I use the DS160s as slave strobes and mounting on an arm segment would make them easier to handle. If you have something laying around, please send me an email.
  6. Not sure where you can buy in Europe. I would contact Micro Mesh directly and ask if they ship internationally. Sure they would do so. Scubysnaps: good luck! Set aside the better part of a morning or afternoon, put the coffee and good music on and go for it! It will pay to take your time and complete each step properly. I used to live in fear of scratching my dome port. After this 'incident', I realized that s$*& happens. While I'm still very cautious, I no longer live in fear of scratching the port now that I know it can be restored. By the way, shot some images two nights ago and they turned out great. Here's a sample image (not the most interesting, but my goal was to test drive the dome and ensure the images turned out properly):
  7. Looking for a used Ikelite DS160. Please let me know if you have one you'd like to sell. Thanks!
  8. ULCS BA-TG T-Groove Adapter, for Subal, Sea & Sea, Amphibico. This was sent to me in error by Reef Photo. The replacement part didn't arrive in time for my trip, so I was forced to use it on two dives. It works for my Sea and Sea housing, but I wanted the Aquatica screw on ball. It's essentially new. Will sell for $20 shipped (US only). PayPal accepted. :-)
  9. If you have an acrylic dome port and scratch it, don't despair, there is hope! I was shooting photos in an underwater cave two weeks ago, when, to my horror, my 'model' ran into my dome port with his double tanks. Stuff happens, right? The impact left some nice scratches, which showed up in all subsequent images. I did a little interweb research and settled on the Micro Mesh NC-78-1 kit to remove the scratches. I thought I'd share my experience here. Here's the blemish as it appeared in images (look upper left quad, looks like out of focus bubbles). This is not the diver who scratched my port. Here's the blemish on the dome: The Micro Mesh NC-78-1 kit. One thing that was not included, was the 400 weight sandpaper. Fortuantely, I had some on hand in the garage. First, I removed the dome port guard, which is held in place with screws (I have a Sea and Sea dome port). Next, I used 400 grit wet/dry (using it wet), to remove the scratch. I sanded the entire dome, so that the surface would be even. Looked pretty bad after that step. Any scratches should be removed during this process. The 400 took care of business! I have to say it was hard to do this to my dome port and was hoping the process would work. After using the 400 weight, I began using the Micro Mesh strips, starting with 1500 and working my way down to 12000. Using the foam block in the kit, I sanded the dome edge to edge, crossing my pattern 90 degrees. After completing sanding, I rinsed and washed the dome to remove any abrasive residue. This is the finished product. I spent about four hours on this. Maybe a bit over the top, but I wanted to ensure it turned out right. By the way, the kit was around $45 + shipping direct from Micro Mesh. The kit is resuable as long as the micro mesh sheets have enough abrasive left over, and mine do. Hope I don't need them again :-) Safe diving and happy shooting!
  10. Thanks for the compliments. Looking forward to getting out with the flash :-)
  11. I was anxious to hit the water today for a test dive of my first housed DSLR. My former camera was a Nikonos V, but I sold it about eight years ago and it felt great to be shooting underwater again. My flash sync cord hadn't yet arrived. Leaving the dive gear behind to shoot available light while snorkeling turned out to be a great idea. It was a much better way for me to become aquatinted with the camera without additional task loading dealing with gear and the overhead in the cave (plus I couldn't use my flash today). Fortunately I had a willing model to bring along. Here are some images from today. Out of all the images I shot, I wasn't completely satisfied with any of them. Lots to learn and relearn. I simply had a blast! Great to return to creating images underwater My rig is: Nikon D300, Tokina 10-17, S&S MDX 300 housing, S&S NX fisheye dome port. My flash is a single S&S 110a with UCLS arms (8" and 5"), but I haven't had the chance to use it yet and will be adding more light later. Location: Ginnie Springs, North Central Florida, near Little Devil and Devil's Cave system entrances.
  12. If anyone is looking to buy from kkgodiving, I can provide a positive reference. I bought his MDX 300 housing (I live in N Central FL and he in Singapore) and it was a smooth and honest transaction. Thanks, KK!
  13. Canon Power Shot A640 10.0 mp camera and Ikelite 614064 housing with optional Release Handle Tray. Both units are in excellent condition. This is a solid housing and is rated to 200 feet. Includes the following accessories: - Two 2GB CF cards - Canon CB-5AH Ni-MH battery charger with eight Canon NB-3AH type 2500 mAh 1.2v Ni-MH batteries - Tamrac soft case for camera The total retail price for all included is $760. I'm selling the complete package for $450 shipped. Willing to sell the housing only if someone's interested. You can pay with MO or check and I also have a PayPal account. Ikelite specs: - This heavy duty housing is molded of corrosion free clear polycarbonate, operates safely to 200 feet, and provides for all of the Canon A630 and A640 camera functions. - The lens port allows attaching the optional UWL-100 wide angle lenses produced by Inon and Epoque. - The camera flash is blocked by the lens port of the housing. Addition of an optional DS series Ikelite SubStrobe, placed farther from the lens, improves the photographs and reduces the illumination of particles suspended in the water. - Optional strobes do not operate TTL with these cameras, but utilize the Manual Controller which provides 10 power settings with the DS-50 and DS-125 SubStrobes. A deflector is included to allow the Manual Controller to be triggered by the camera flash. - Optional Release Handle and tray, required to mount optional strobes, allows easy attachment and removal of strobe and mounting arm at the touch of a button.
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