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Everything posted by Dupsbear

  1. Hello Everyone, Albert Kok asks if the D7200 will fit into the other D7100 housings on the market. I have a D7200 and a Anthis Nexus D7100 housing; they are a perfect fit in every way. All the best, Barry
  2. Strobes, chargers and batteries are all sold. I still have the new dual strobe cord. Thanks, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  3. Hey Guys, I am selling (2) Ikelite DS 125 strobes that are in great condition and guaranteed not to be dead on arrival. Strobes come with original arm connector, rapid charger, diffusers and strobe connector plugs. These are both using the Nicad batteries and chargers. Batteries come to full charge and are working great. These strobes have been used to take many of the photos you see in Dive Training magazine. Strobes and everything listed above for $300 each with free shipping to the continental U.S. Buy both for only $550 and free shipping to the continental U.S. Also listed are (2) Ikelite batteries #4066.5 NiMH batteries with #4066.1 rapid charger. You might notice the MS on the batteries and charger; both these batteries and charger were recently owned by the Scuba Diving Hall of Fame member and great photographer, Marty Snyderman! These batteries and charger will only be sold as a group. Letter of authenticity available to purchaser from Marty. (2) Batteries and one rapid charger only $330. Batteries list for $200 each new and charger is $100 each new, so this is a great deal. Free shipping to the continental U.S. I also have a NEW Ikelite dual sync cord Non-TTL # 4104.32, Nikonos to dual Ikelite connector cord, that was a backup and never used. Only $110 with free shipping to the continental U.S. All monies in US dollars. These things are all my personal equipment. Thanks for your time, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  4. I do not think my dome can be used on your s95 Canon housing, even though you do not mention what housing you have. There is an extension built into my ports that will most likely cause your lens to vignette. The hole diameter in the back of the smallest, M5 size port, is 100 mm, which is much larger than your adapter. Thanks for asking and good luck, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  5. Hi GSK3, If you are looking at the cable end, not the camera end, here is the pinout on a 3 prong Nikonos cable. There is an indention in the part that goes into the camera; hold that indention to the 6 o'clock position. Mentally number the pins from left to right as 1,2,3. Pin 2 will be opposite the indention. Pin 1 = M sync Pin 2 = Ground Directly across from the indention. Pin 3 = X sync M sync is for flashbulbs, so you will be shorting ground to X-sync pin to make the strobe fire. Best of luck, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  6. Yes, we have M6 ports in stock. Nexus still makes M5 ports, but their housings now all support M4 or M6 ports. For this reason, we have decided to also discontinue M5 ports, but we have a couple of M5 ports still available. Thanks for asking, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  7. The light you mention is very interesting and many times with light, more is better. One of the ads I saw for the Archon advertises light coming out the side of the front lens, as if that is preferable. However, light coming out the sides may increase backscatter or just a glare in a diver's eye. I do not know that, but I do know from years of teaching and shooting u/w photography, that you do not want to light up the area between your subject and the lens, which a side light will do. The Archon only comes with one battery; a second battery is another $25. The UK light comes with 2 batteries that can be charged from a laptop; the Archon may charge from a laptop, but I did not see that feature advertised. The Archon does not come with any way to mount it, so a bracket must be purchased. The UK light comes with (2) 1/4-20 threaded holes that makes mounting easier, but one still might have to purchase a ball joint to mount. I also noticed the size of the Archon, which is almost twice the diameter, longer and heavier. Please, I am not putting down the Archon light! I would love to have 1400 lumens; that does remind me that the UK light has 4 power settings, but the Archon only has two. I think you could not go wrong on either light. If you get the Archon, let us know how it performed; one post and video I saw showed flickering with the Archon light in low power mode. Not sure why that happened, but that could be a deal breaker for me. Good luck, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  8. I've used the Aqualite on several trips and love them. I shoot 2 lights, one mounted below each of my 2 strobes. For the money and size, they are hard to beat. The lights come with 2 batteries and a charger. The charger will charge from a laptop computer or any USB power supply. There are 3 different heads for the lights and are interchangeable; a 90 degree, 65 degree and a 20 degree. Each reduction in angle yields a more powerful beam, but I use the 90's for video and a 20 for a night dive light. The color of the light is most pleasing. One of my underwater videos using 2 Aqualites in Cozumel may be found on my YouTube channel, which is Dupsbear. To view the video, go here. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  9. Hi KC, The Aqualite has a boss on one side with (2) 1/4-20 stainless steel holes tapped and drilled that are about 1" apart. I am not sure of a soft handgrip like the SOLA light, but one could be easily made. If one wanted to have the red lighting, they could purchase inexpensive gel filter material and add that gel to the outside of the light with a rubber band. Sort of a workaround, but would work. Some people would use the red light a lot, others may not find the red light feature important enough to justify the price differential. I've held both lights and seen the red light feature. Both lights are quality built and serve good purpose. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  10. BFDC, I would be interested in Ken's response too. I thought the Aqualites, which are daylight balanced, would also give a red cast with the URPro filter. However, the only time I had a red cast was when I was shooting a lobster in a hole and the light was about 7" from the coral. The center of the picture looked normal, just the coral at the frame edge was too red. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  11. Hi KC, I am not sure how far the light goes, but I have used it at night in Bonaire and could easily see 20-25 ft., maybe more. I was shore diving in fairly shallow water, shooting smaller stuff, so I did not take the time to look and see how far the light penetrated. In Bonaire, I only had one light; in Cozumel, I had two. All the Cozumel shooting was done during the day. There is a smaller beam angle head, I think 65 degrees, which will give a more intense light with longer reach. I fell the wide angle of the GoPro camera needed the larger beam angle. I cannot stand to see video where the edge of the light beam is evident. For $500 USD for 2 lights, 4 batteries, 2 chargers, it seems like a great deal. The lights will also charge off a USB charger or a laptop, which saves having to bring more chargers along. Hope this helps, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  12. Good report Ken and thanks! I just returned from Cozumel using the GoPro 2 with a Backscatter modified housing. All sequences shot on the widest setting, using a URPro underwater filter. My lighting was 2 of the new Underwater Kinetics eLED Aqualites, mostly used on full power. These lights, as reviewed on Wetpixel, give 90 degree coverage each with no hot spots. I will not go without using these tiny lights if possible. The camera was mounted above one of my Nexus DSLR housing arms and the Aqualites were mounted, one each, under my 2 strobes. With the LCD back, filming and framing was a breeze; this is another must have for serious video recording. My final video was rendered on Sony Vegas Pro. This is my first time to add a video link, so I hope it works. If not, my YouTube channel name is also Dupsbear; the video is named, Cozumel 12. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  13. Hello Everyone, We have a new upgrade to our "Marine Life Keyword List", which now includes the "Indonesian Fishes and Tropical Pacific Invertebrates Keyword Pack". However, if you already have our Marine Life list, you can easily update your list with the new "Indonesian Fishes and Tropical Pacific Invertebrates Keyword Pack" which includes over 3,800 keywords of marine species in the tropical Pacific. The price for the update, "Indonesian Fishes and Tropical Pacific Invertebrates Keyword Pack", is only $9.99 USD. Go to www.keywordworkflow.com for details. Once you start keywording your images, you will not believe how easy it is to find the image you were searching for. Thanks, Barry, Eric and Marty
  14. Yes, Nexus America is most definitely still in business. Woody Mayhew is the owner and can get you what you need. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  15. Hello Ross, Here is an idea for you. Make your pistol grip out of acrylic, then embed a magnetic reed switch inside the acrylic. A sliding thumb-activated button with a magnet inside would close your switch when you slide the magnet over the reed switch. I have used this setup on home made strobes and it works perfectly. There are magnetic reed switches that are normally closed or normally open; you would choose the right one for your application. Good luck, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  16. Hi Rob, Interesting concept you relate about needing a higher F-stop to get better corner to corner sharpness, without regard to port and dome design. Not saying you are wrong, but my findings differ with my port design. I tests and use my ports almost daily, since I am a working pro, and have over 200 dives with the Bare 5" dome. Agreed, a 5" dome is really not what people are calling a "mini-dome". I do not have ANY problems with corner sharpness at any of the f-stops I use. There are some popular dome ports being sold that have a reputation for blurry corners; one could be amiss by a blanket statement saying all domes have this same problem. Maybe what we should say is an "improperly designed mini-dome" or "a mismatch lens/dome configuration" might need the higher f-stops to produce better corner to corner sharpness. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  17. Hello Alex and all, I just read about a trick to get the Nikon 16mm lens to focus closer by removing the rear removable filter. Removing the filter shifts the focus from the lens' standard focus range of .25 meters - infinity to .17 meter - 1.2 meters. A quick mm to inches conversion tells us the lens would then focus to a short distance of .17 m = 6.69291, which is close enough to use behind a 4" diameter port. Since he would be shooting behind a dome and focusing on a virtual image, the 1.2 meters far distance of the lens without a filter is not an issue. I have not tried the above trick yet, but writing this has given me the idea to test it out today. I found this article at http://www.subspace.ch/English/Trick.htm. Now addressing the first post in this thread, it is my findings that the dome radius from a 6" dome to a 4" dome will not affect the DOF for your 16mm lens; the 16mm Nikon has incredible DOF. Your selected F-stop will have much more to do with your DOF. Dome shape, size and distance from the lens' nodal point will have much more affect on the sharpness of the image, especially in the corners. We designed the Bare Dome Port with a 5" diameter and our port housing design to give the best sharpness possible, especially in the corners. I found that using the 5" dome in our configuration gives much sharper images than what I was getitng with a 16mm Nikon lens and the Nexus 170mm port. Thanks, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  18. Hi Larry, Actually, the 60mm is much longer. When you determine the length of the lens, you have to measure then lens at its fully extended length. If I remember correctly, with the 60mm the longest length is when the lens is focused at its closest distance. I took the UV filter off my lens when using the 60mm, but it is not required to do so. Any additional glass can degrade the image, which is a good reason to get the best fiters you can afford. Ryan told me the same thing about the Athena adapter. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  19. Hi Jim, Glad you are enjoying the Bare port! I am sorry to hear you have some vignette @ 10mm, I bet it is because of the Nexus port adapter; this is the first I have heard of anyone having this problem. You might try taking off the port shade to see if that is what is showing up; if so, it would be easy to trim down the shade. The M5 size is 100mm and the M6 size is 110mm, so you were very close. I have over 200 personal dives with my Bare dome and have not seen the internal reflections Ryan mentions that can occur. Reflections can occur with glass or acrylic. I believe the internal shape of my dome as well as what could be described as the port's backing plate keeps internal reflections from happening. Light is reflected at the same angle of incidence; with the internal angles of my dome those angles are calculated to keep reflections away from the lens internal optics. Acrylic does scratch easier than glass, but when glass scratches, you have a greater problem. Both acrylic and glass will scratch when in contact with hard corals or metals. I don't know the price to replace a glass dome, but I do know that I charge less than $100 to replace our acrylic domes. I just came back from Maui and tried my dome with a Nikon 60mm F2.8 and was very pleased with the results. Of course, just like with the 10-17, there was no need for a port extension. You should try the combination with your 60mm; you will get a larger field of view without having to be so far back. I hope my explaination helped and look forward to hearing if your port shade is the culprit. All the best, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  20. I have tried to splice o-rings before and found the process hard to get perfect. Why mess around with a splice when you can get o-rings already made for very cheap? My thought is that you would be wasting your time and efforts to save $8, and if you flood your camera, you spent much more. If you are going with a flat port, then use glass; a glass shop should be able to cut a piece to size and get you the strength you need. For domes, I stay with acrylic because of cost, being able to easily polish out scratches, and acrylic is closer to the refractive index of water. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  21. Hello Rod, I think your lack of response is because you have not given any parameters. You say, "How thick does XYZ need to be...." Maybe if you gave some working depths, then maybe we can help. I would suggest that you find a good o-ring company where you can purchase the size o-rings you might need. Knowing the sizes of o-rings available will help you with your sealing design. You mentioned that you have a milling machine. If you can mill an o-ring groove in your tube, you might find that the easiest way to make your housing seal. Check out retail housing manufacturers to see how they seal their housings; my Nexus housing has an o-ring groove on the front part of the housing and the back housing plate is flat. This type of seal is dependable and easy to make. Your end plate sizes will determine how thick your end plates need to be. I made a housing for a Coolpix 990 with a back plate of 3/8" acrylic that proved to be too thin since I had a hairline crack develop at 90 ft. depth. My next housing had 1/2" plates that proved successful. Knowing the expected size of your housing will also help determine the thickness of your end plates. For ports, I would suggest purchasing a ready made port and adapting your housing to fit that brand of ports. Port production is hard, and just because the port seals, does not mean you will have good, much less, great images. Good luck, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  22. Hi Rtrski, Did you ever post your shots on Flicker? If so how do I find them and how did the port work for you? Thanks, Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  23. The Bare Dome Port keeps producing great images without distortion on the edges. Supply for the Christmas season is limited, so order your's now. Of course, this image is keyworded using the MarineLife Keyword list from Keywordworkflow dot com. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  24. Thinking out of the box, why do the LEDs have to be above the camera? Why not place the LEDs in an area of your housing where there is plenty of room. Also, here is a neat bulkhead that would give a better light transfer from inside to outside the housing. http://www.watershot.com/dslr/dslr-accesso...e-bulkhead.html and, as is available on my Anthis Nexus housing, http://www.anthisnexus.com/index.php?route...;product_id=319. The Nexus part lens looks like it is made of glass and really transfers the light! I have to admit, the sequin idea did bring a chuckle, but not a bad idea. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
  25. I have some little reflectors, 12mm O.D., that slip over an LED and increase the forward intensity of light, like a flashlight. It would be interesting to know if these reflectors would help with your LED/housing/lightpipe interface. A reflector could also be put on the lightpipe, using the same principle of using a dish to capture more satellite signals. I have had the reflectors for many years and do not remember where I got them; I feel sure an internet search should find something that would work. Barry www.bareports.com www.keywordworkflow.com
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