polyroly

I am not expert in the area, but I have had quite a few projects where I needed Lexan and Plastic sheet machined. There are specific bits for drilling and shaping plastics, I believe they have a shallow attack angle, with the intent of keeping heat to a minimum. If you use bits designed as HSS Steel you should proceed very slowly and keep your bit clear of debris. If it binds it will 'plunge' and that is bad. I have had contractors rush the drilling process with the wrong bits and they said to me 'look, no problem'. They had to come back in 4 months to replace all the work as hairline cracks appeared radiating out from the holes that compromised the safety of the (Guard Rails). There were no signs of this when first fabricated but I was informed by the plastics manufacturers that heat stress failure can appear long after the holes are made. I have drilled and tapped plastics often myself (up to tapping 3/4" NPT holes using milk as a coolant lol ) but I always go slow and keep light pressure and clean the flutes often. It is in interesting DIY, please let us know how it goes!

Thanks Mark, nice Video! Looks like you had pretty clear water! Did you embark from Sorong? How were the engine/compressor noise levels, and the food onboard? I would love to learn about that too. And the dive sites as well. We've been to Misool and Sorrido Bay - looking for other options to the north side of Sorong.

Thank you!, Looks like a great read to get me dreaming through the 3rd wave.

That's great Wolfgang!, last time I checked (around 12 years ago) the American company that produces these masks declined my request for my old +6 prescription. They just couldn't manage the thickness. If you can post the contact I will call them next week. I am affraid that I was not clear - I wear these prescriptions as contacts, not as glass - there are no 'pop in' lenses that go north of +3 so I am out of luck there as well. I am getting nervous as my contacts are not made stronger than +7.5 so I am near to be SOL if my eyes degrade further.

I am still waiting for good options for + scripts. Not so easy for us far sighted multfocaled divers that I know of. I still use a +3 for distance in my dominant eye and a +6 for reading my gauges in my weak eye. My brain turns off the appropriate eye in any situation underwater but does get a but tired using this system topside. If I tried to get this with glass I wouldn't need weights!

Yes, Fredi's Video is nicely done, Thanks for linking that Marcell, and quite a few lighting approaches there. I think some were lit below the lens, but I am not sure.

I think this added a lot, Thanks. May I ask what lens was used for the wide shots?

Hello! I am Simon, I am from Toronto, Canada and I (so far) we have only dived the nice warm water in the Caribbean and the Indo/Pacific regions. Last dives were to the Philippines (before the '19) and that was grrreat! ... 'not another frog fish'. I have lately dove with an aging Sony RX100m2 in Meikon Plastic with an Inon Z330 and Archon VL using an Inon UCL165M67 Diopter for Macro and a DIY fiber-optic Snoot for the '330 (as non were available retail before my trip) using 'rino old school cardboard cuttouts and a friends wet 3D printer. Using the strobe (primarily) and the snoot completely changed my underwater photography life. I resisted strobes so long - I was so wrong. My biggest personal challenge (as an older, and once a year diver) is remembering the motor skills and the (paltry) imaging skills that I learnt the previous year. I am looking to an improved housing, improved optics and a back lighting armature for my snoot.