polyroly

And is directed at 3.5 to 4 degrees toward center which adds to the fun. On my printed solution for the Z330 I canted a 3/4" fiber optic bundle toward the focus light to capture that light and the center flash. With 3/4" optic you need to trim down the light at the exit point unless you are looking at a large frog fish. That's not a problem. Also if you target the origin point of your optic towards the focus light you need to fix your 'plumbing fixture cap' so that it doesn't move. But you want to be able to remove it and replace it fast for the shot of your dive buddy. I kept leaving my first generation snoot in the sand and having to swim back to retrieve it - !Doh! You really need 3 eyes and 4 hands for snoot work.

Success, thanks to a kind local savior in Dauin! Kind thanks to all contributors!

Good ideas, thanks for the help. I should hear on Saturday if Splash can come to the rescue. Fingers crossed.

Thanks Marker, yes, tried DiverVision, they have the part stocked but phoned dhl to check and they say, if they are honest, 10 calandra days min. To Dauin area. Splash in Manila might have stock, but only will know on Saturday. If it crosses the border, and has retail value, I am sunk, as dhl says it will be held for a week( this time of year). And I can’t ask a retailer to ship item as no value. I’m almost desperate enough to make a part my cutting down a larger ring, and staying above 40 feet. But it would be super risky! Bad plan. But I am soooo frustrated!

If you are presently in the Philippines and have a spare Battery compartment O ring and are prepared to send it DHL overnight express, I will pay you for your part and time and postage. Mine split and my spares were lost by the airlines - so I am out of luck as it is Easter week here and bringing in from HK etc will take almost 2 weeks. Can anyone save me?

So thanks again to all help, I am reliably able to load and unload the camera body while maintaining good gear contact. I Could deal with a fixed focal length but I really want to keep the option of manual focus - so I am feeling much better with the housing now. I quickly printed up some offset rings that fit on the lens front so I can reliably and repeatably set the gear forward of the lens face by 3mm. Only takes a couple of minutes to print and its one less thing to use my brain for early in the morning. (pretty dopey STL file free for the asking, anyone living in Toronto without a printer can pick up a set at no charge) As for the vacuum - not sure I will be able to act on this before my trip but I will follow up. I am not entirely sure about putting a case that is meant for 140ft depth under additional load. If you are under vacuum at surface do you know what apparent depth you will be at 140 feet? I think as a guess, I would stay over 100 ft just for peace of mind.

Yes, I would feel so. It is an interesting dilemma - I admire a housing manufacturer who assembles a package for multiple bodies and so I suppose I must be prepared to fiddle. The housing is held back /seated on 3 rubber 'beads' and a two corner pads - all about 6mm deep. If I had spares i would reduce the thickness to 4mm. I have tried replacing them with some firm sponge and -on a preliminary test - the closure fit is now 'correct' the zoom gear is fitting and smooth and all controls work well or better than before. If I had soft filament, and experience with using it, I would 3D print some replacements. OK! That will fix that! Thanks for letting me know it work without! The part has a lower flange which seems to be designed to act as a position 'retainer' for the Zoom gear - but in actual use this is the offending part that pushes down on, and binds, the gear after closing the back (in my experience). I might have re-designed and print the part with more lower tolerance but if you don't need it... good riddance to it! ..."put the housing on/off switch into 'on' position " - Interesting, inserting 'On' makes more sense looking at the switch insertion point but Sea Frogs instructs 'Off' ..."close but do not lock the latches " - ? Why not lock the latches at this point? So I just got a video arrive from Sea Frogs, I will watch it now - they tell me if it doesn't help to send the housing out to British Columbia for review. That's not happening (before my trip)! Thank goodness for the help here - I should be fixed up good. Thanks everyone for the help! Next to try this Vacuum Pump thingy - the fun never ends!

Well, now I'm done in again. The proposal kindly given does work, but when and as I tried it, I needed to leave out the component as photo 1 shows - that little 'ear' at the top right inside the housing that seats between the front of the camera and the gear wheel. I can get the camera OUT by carefully angling the camera + gear around the 'ear' but getting it back in is a bugger, and invariably it knocks the gear out of true. Every time I try to load the kit while delicately trying to simultaneously seat the 'ear' end in failure. Getting this working 100% with my skill set may be possible but I will surely miss the dive boat, or breakfast, or both! I will continue to try gentle manipulation but I can not imagine that this delicate procedure so prone to dives with malfunctioning housings would be considered normal for Salted Line. I must still be doing something quite wrong. Sea Frogs now tells me they have never seen anything like the videos I sent them and they are now preparing an (Idiots) Guide to Installation. (my insertion). The support team appear quite friendly.

Thanks for your thoughts! OK, I will try that again, and see how it works. Any thoughts on the internal pressure? If that may cause flooding? I did a video for the support at Sea Frogs but they need a day or two to respond - Time difference to HK. I was beginning to think I might grind down the Rubber LCD guard that applies pressure from the rear, on a belt sander. If I remove that part the housing works more or less, as it should but without it I think the Camera body will shift backward and I will be unable to turn on/off the power. Update - Yes that fixes the issue - I press the gear back to the face of the closed lens and it is free to move when closed up. I suppose I will simply mount the gear before dropping in the camera. Thanks to you both again!

Hello, I wonder if anyone using this combination has had problems with the Zoom Gear binding / jamming / skipping? I am new to both the camera and housing after using the Meikon with a RX100 for many years (happily). I got the Sony body and Salted Line case last week - it came mis-configured for the 6400 but I sorted that all out (I am thinking I did). I watched the videos and believe I am following correct install protocol. When I first push down the A6400 body the Zoom Knob rotates well (although not every time**) Then I place the back housing on and it sits a mil or two above the 'seated position' that the clamshell sits compared to an empty housing - so I know that the closures are about to pressure the camera downward towards the front of the case. Sure enough when the clamps are shut down the Zoom gear is now jammed tight , or sometimes almost jammed - and in a turn or two start to skip / jump the internal gears. I also suspect that if there is too mush outward pressure on the case I could flood. - The camera is totally as it arrives from the factory (with kit lens) - I have fried with different front ports. I sure would love someone telling me where I am messing up!

Nice. May I ask, how large is your polished plate? Also you mentioned focus issues - I thought Nauticam housings allow you to manual focus, am I mistaken?

Very helpful to a beginner in this class of camera. Many thanks. So much to learn!

I agree with AKO, Moisture Muncher (cylinder style) work well, Blue when they have life and tirn white/pink when exhausted. But they are expensive and may not work (or fit!) any better than the free packs. But the free packs may have dust which is always a bugger to get out of your housing. BUT - you can re-use your MM's over and over. I have 20 that I have been using for years, a couple of weeks before a trip a trip I dry them out - to dark Blue - and I'm good to go. I got a bag of 'drying crystals' from the hardware store for about 5$ about 5 years ago - I throw them into there (in a sachet so not to get dusty) and three days later they are refreshed. Some housings don't have space enough - they are about the size of half a cigarette - if you can find one of those to cut in half. In humid environments one MM will last for 2 or 3 dives. Also some people store their camera in the mini-bar fridge (lower humidity).

Barmaglot, do you use this in the Short, Medium(for Zeiss 50 Macro) or Long Salted Line Macro Port, or some other? How does it perform with your Close-up Lens, and lastly what adapter do you use? It seems like a viable alternate to the Sony 90mm having a bit more breathing room. Thanks for any thoughts.

Late to the party but I also think that you managed a great shot. The problem now is that you got a great shot. Now your proof of concept is confirmed and you will be spending many more hours sitting stationary on the cold ocean floor - pity your dive buddy! Leaving the small amount of debris was a good choice imho as it helps to reference gravity. Similar to Tim's undulating reflective surface. There was a pic somewhere here (i think) of a wee aggressive fellow trying to cower his own reflection in a mirror - the photographer must of set up the mirror in the sand outside his den. Beautiful, funny but somehow I felt a bit sad for the little fish. I think any photo that causes a non-diver to pause and think about the wonders below the water must serve a common good.