Jump to content

Ministryofgiraffes

Member
  • Content Count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Ministryofgiraffes last won the day on June 10

Ministryofgiraffes had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About Ministryofgiraffes

  • Rank
    Triggerfish

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

1084 profile views
  1. I thought 9 different varieties over 4 days in coz was pretty decent to be honest, and they were on boat dives (all hail my DM/spotter) but i suppose 9 is decent if you haven't see more in that concentration of dives before selection of examples below.. as stated, you would have to have the right DM though.. and the boat issue makes photography difficult as you don't always have the 20 mins you need to take the 100+ photos of the little guy to get 1 that is useable.. couple of these are not 'technically' nudis..but you get the drift...on the drift...
  2. I've had decent success in Cozumel. 8/9 different varieties in 4 days of diving, but overall the carrib is going to be a crapshoot. lots of flamingo tongues and crispatas, but it's probably not going to be much of a 'nudi focus' trip unfortunately... ive seen the occasional spotted nudi on the belize atols and a leopard slug or two off ambergris cayes...
  3. Pavel...I think I have worked it out...in your vid you are shooting with the strobes YS-D2 (black) I have the YS-D2J (YELLOW)......I think I just had an ‘a-ha; moment... are my trigger settings incorrect as I have it on ‘3’ setting for the YS-D2 strobes as opposed to another setting for YS-D2J ? I don’t even see YS-D2J compatibility on the instruction manual although it does say it’s compatible on the website..
  4. Thanks pavel. I’ll message you. A friend suggested that the issue may be that I have the YD-D2J strobes as oppose to the YS-D2 strobes as apparently the D2J has an issue with the 2 preflashes of the Nikon Z7...he has a turtle trigger and said that with his D2Js the optical sensor is poor and the capacitor has already dumped when the main flash is needed. Hence all the shots being underexposed. do you think this could be an issue?
  5. Thanks pavel, that is very helpful. I presume you have a 60mm or a 105mm lens on this as you got up to F32... ‘this video would suggest there is a malfunction with my TTL board.. I am doing exactly the same thing with the same kit and the shot is completely underexposed as if there was no flash. i reset the Z7 to factory settings and have exactly the same manual settings as your video. The flash is firing, but clearly too slowly.
  6. Thanks. No problem on the weekend. Im not going to Bonaire until the 14th I know its difficult to diagnose across a forum. I think its going need me seeing it working and the process to realize which setting is different on my rig that is leading to the issue. With the settings: manual 1/200 f9 iso100 no flash a straight shot is very underexposed ( as it should be) it is also underexposed when the strobe is firing and confirming TTL (light blue setting with green confirmation flash after shot) so I can only assume for some reason its a synch issue and the strobes arent firing at the correct time but Im not sure if its too fast or too slow and alterations to shutter speed etc dont seem to be solving the issue. The only way I appear to get the strobes to fire and the shutter to catch the flash when the DS strobes are in light blue TTL mode is when I set the flash synch speed to 1/200 auto fp but then the TTL does not work, there is no green confirmation flash and the shot is highly overexposed... Im documenting everything g in detail here for those who come after me with the same issue Thanks again. Look forward to the video!
  7. Thanks pavel. I would really appreciate a video. I cant think of what I am doing incorrectly although all of the current flashes are flashing the correct colour and flashing green on the #26308 board and the YD-D2s after firing to signify that the TTL is correct, but for some reason the shutter is completely missing it and the picture is showing up as completely black as it is so underexposed at 1/200 f9 iso 100 in manual camera setting without flash.. The YS-D2s are on the TTL setting (light blue / not dark blue) and the indicator is flashing green after the shot to signify TTL status. I even took the #26308 board out of the housing and fired a few shots, you can see the lights on the board LED flash twice in quick succession and the green indicator is correct on the board but the camera is missing it and each shot is so underexposed that it is completely black. I can see the strobes firing before hearing the shutter. The delay is noticeable and I cant work out how to get the shutter and strobes in sync. Your instruction is very helpful and I feel Im close to working it out...trial and error, but I also have some soldering to do as I broke off one of the LEDs from the board trying to push it right into the optical bulkhead...so now I have to repair it
  8. i'm getting closer... when i set my 'flash synch speed' in the Z7 menu to 1/200s (Auto FP) the green light doesnt confirm TTL and the shot is overexposed... when i set it to 1/200s without the Auto FP (or any other setting without auto FP), the strobes do flash green to confirm TTL but the picture is completely black...
  9. ok, i just reset all custom setting on the camera incase there was something screwing it up. I did then change flash exposure compensation to -0.7 3rd shot 1/200 f9 100iso green confirmation after shot on strobes. completely black picture... 4th-6th shot 1/200 f9 100 iso....all green confirmation after shots on strobes all completely black pictures...
  10. ok...i didn't change anything, i just took another shot and the strobes didn't give a green confirmation flash and the picture was not black, although it was overexposed. i touched nothing other than the focus trigger. exactly the same settings 1st shot 1/200 f9 100 iso green confirmation after shot on the strobes and completely black picture 2nd shot 1/200 f9 100 iso no green confirmation shot is overexposed. subject is 1.5ft away
  11. thanks pavel. i was hoping you would show up according to my backscatter receipt i have the #26308 but it doesn't look like the one on the nauticam site. it doesn't have a switch on the right side to switch down to TTL. it has a dial from 1-9 and the manual says you have to turn it to dial 3 for the YS-D2Js...so it says it's this one, but it doesn't look like this one... :https://www.backscatter.com/Nauticam-TTL-Converter-for-Nikon-compatible-with-N my cables are #26216 i have set my flash exposure compensation to -0.7 ev i have just set to 1/200 f9 100 iso.. there WAS a green confirmation light after flash.... but the picture is completely black.. i'm checking shutter speed now... thanks for your help...don't go anywhere
  12. a bit more research.. when you attach nikon flashes to the hotshot above water, there is an option to change to TTL under the 'flash control mode' in menu settings, but for some reason that is greyed out when the nauticam converter is attached to the hotshoe...this is why i think its a configuration issue, as it would stand to reason that you should be changing that setting to TTL so the camera knows it's in TTL mode.... i would think. this is why i suspect it's an issue with the actual converter... i can't get the ttl to work in any range...
  13. yep, long/short. had the iso set at 200 off auto iso and tested on a lego minifigure sitting 2 feet away at f2.8 and f11.... with a 1/250 setting ( only change the fstop) the lighting should arguably be the same if the ttl is working but it definitely isnt.... i really think it's an issue of the setting not being correct, sort of hoping for someone who might be able to chime in with 'i had the same/similar issue and xxxx corrected it' i generally never have iso on auto as i tend to shoot light scenes underwater when it's not macro, so like to keep it low to get the contrast without the noise. i would never shoot macro on higher than 200 iso really but thats with static videolights, mainly because the strobes just wont behave...
  14. Actually...thinking it might be an issue in the actual TTL configuration on the TTL board...
  15. Hi All, I have the Nauticam TTL converter installed on my nauticam housing and i am using a Nikon Z7. I am setting the SEA&SEA YS-D2J strobes on the DS-TTL setting ( blue light) and I just can't get them to work. the shot is aways over exposed..( both connected with fibre optic cables) I've tried shooting in Manual/Auto/Shutter and aperture priority.... Tried Manual at 1/60 - 1/200 F 3.8- F-11 Iso Auto and iSO 100 - 16000 etc...nothing seems to work.. I thought it might be an issue with the setting of the flash control mode with the camera, but there is no option to change the flash control mode in the Nikon z7 menu when the TTL converter is in the flash hotshoe....which is a bit suspicious to me..the 'flash control' option in the camera menu is just greyed out and it says: 'this option is not available at current settings or in camera's current state' ...which is odd, because you would think that i would need to set the camera to some form of TTL mode... the Nauticam TTL converter is for Nikon DSLR cameras but they were adamant that it works with the Z6/Z7 Don't suppose anyone has any ideas? P.S an answer i'm not looking for is . 'why don't you just use manual strobe settings and not use a TTL'
×
×
  • Create New...