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Jerry Diver

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Jerry Diver last won the day on May 1 2019

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About Jerry Diver

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  1. I've sent them an email a couple days ago and among other things I also got this reply: "We start shipments in mid-January in the week starting with 20th January. We expect all pre-orders will be sent in 4-5 weeks." Unless you've ordered early on I wouldn't be counting on them for 1st February.
  2. From my personal experience over the years of doing different hobbies I learned that buying something which is usually expensive but covers more features and settings gives me higher satisfaction and is better value in the long term. But this doesn't mean I don't buy used or fun, cheap toys as well! I learned this with model airplanes/helicopters and remote controls. Over a period of about 3 years I ended up having 4 different remote controls costing $300-400 while there was always the option of buying a slightly bigger and more expensive, about $1000 at the time, remote control which covered the functions of all four and had even more features, mixers, nicer joysticks etc. To my own loss I ended up selling all four and buying the expensive one. Once the technology shifted to 2.4GHz I could buy a module for this remote control and keep using it while the others didn't have this option. And it always gave better performance and was nicer, more rewarding to use. 5 years on when I decided to sell, I got more money from the single remote than from all four I sold years before. It seems Retra is moving in this direction, making their products modular and the strobe upgradeable with smartphone connectivity. Unfortunately this also means they are getting expensive...
  3. The strobe by Backscatter is a good macro and snoot tool but it's not a powerful strobe. It's quite cheap at $500 ($550 after pre-orders) but you need another set of strobes if you want to do something besides macro/snooting so it's probably another $700-800 to cover all the lenses. The Retra PRO has wide angle power and a circular lamp while it seems to do a very good job at snooting too. It's more expensive but you only need a pair in your luggage which I personally appreciate. I found the facebook post (see screenshots below). It seems the pilot light on the Retra PRO is strong enough to get a slightly over exposed image at f10 ISO100. This means you will probably not have any issues with aiming!
  4. I tried the LSD with my Z-330 and the Z-240 and the flash light output is reduced not more than 1 stop. A central pilot light is the preferred choice for any kind of snooting so neither flash is ideal. The YS-D1 has a really low power pilot light so don't expect any miracles from that. They improved it on the YS-D2 but still not near to perfect. Btw, I've seen a video on facebook of a prototype Retra PRO combined with the LSD and the guy was using only the pilot light to get a dark background because it was so strong. They reduced the angle of the pilot light beam with the new strobes and increased the power which probably makes it one of the best combinations for snooting. Eager to get mine soon...
  5. Are you using the one that was in the classifieds? Link: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/65052-retra-lsd-snoot/ It seems that the snoot in the classifieds has a black tube attached to a silver mounting piece. Retra actually make a silver tube with a narrower part in the middle and a silver mounting piece. Link: https://www.retra-uwt.com/pages/light-shaping-device I've seen somewhere that those black tubes were made by Retra in 2013.
  6. Just got a message from Retra that they will delay shipping until mid-January 2020. Although I am disappointed because I will not have their new strobes for my December trip I am not surprised in the slightest. Recently I spoke with a friend who is working in development of a strobe product in the beauty industry (hair removal is basically strobes) and after inspecting the specifications of the upcoming strobe by Retra he was surprised they handled it on such short term. They must have a team of super focused engineers and super hard working ones too. Anyway I am glad to hear they are putting quality before delivery dates because I plan to use the strobes for many more diving trips.
  7. Why would a LED trigger limit your shutter speed? It's clear that this so called "E-Opto converter" is only an LED connected to a battery that is triggered by the electronics inside your housing/hotshoe. If you want HSS sync you need special electronics in your housing that mimic a speedlight on a hotshoe and fool the camera to synchronise correctly. Although HSS is an acronym for High Speed Sync the fact is that the system has no basis on speed or how fast the synchronisation is made! Basically it just needs to time the flash correctly and then the strobe does all the works by emitting a special long duration pulse. Here is a nice article explaining HSS: https://www.elinchrom.com/learn/hss-hs.html Furthermore they say it works only for manual mode, not even TTL. Go figure, since the price is peanuts compared to TTL converters for underwater housings...
  8. Sent them an email last week and they replied within a few hours: "First packages are expected to go out at the end of October / beginning of November." Based on this I am realistically expecting my order in end of November or early December...
  9. Their website currently says shipping in October. Realistically I am not expecting my order until November.
  10. In reality the exposure compensation in STTL mode on all Inon strobes is practically non-existent. I have tested multiple scenarios on Z-240's and Z-330's, also without any FO cables to get in the way of signal transmission, and the result is always the same: no real change in exposure. You can change flash exposure compensation in your camera settings. Although not all cameras have this option and it would be nice to actually have it working on the strobe. Btw, that's not the only feature that's not working as advertised on Inon strobes. But hey, they work most of the time so it's fine!
  11. I had the opportunity to measure the Ikelite 161 and Seacam 150 with a light meter in a studio to find out that the Ikelite produces about 0.5 F-stop less power in the center and a about 1 F-stop less at approx. 45º angle (90º spread). Their white reflector is eating away too much light compared to the metalled Seacam one. It's just that the reflective surface of a metalled part will be better than a white (biege) one.
  12. I haven't tested this on every strobe that I tested but I know that Retra will trigger before they actually indicate their ready light. They say this is a feature in case you are shooting an action scene and in a burst of shots you will get light on more of them although there will of course be less light. Nothing hypothetical here, just technical. We all believed that when manufacturers specified their recycle time it was for a full power discharge but it turns out it's for about 75% power and that with the Z-330 it's for much less than that, only about 25%. This much difference is not good if you want to make a choice as a buying customer.
  13. They write: Recycle Time (*5) (*7) -> Approx. 1.8 seconds minimum ["eneloop" batteries] -> (*5) Measured with FULL strobe output at 30-second intervals with both Focus Light and Advanced Cancel Circuit OFF, at 25ºC/77ºF with test batteries giving 5 minutes cooling period every 50 flashes. Source: http://www.inon.jp/products/strobe/z330/spec.html It's very misleading that they write "minimum" in there without specifying what it actually means. How the hell are we supposed to compare specifications with other strobes if they just write their own rules?! I learned that my Z-330 is giving much less power when it indicates the ready light when I was just testing something and my pictures were differently lit. Maybe in the real world I would not notice because my lag time would be longer. But since then I have made several tests comparing the Z-330 with other strobes and the result is that it indicates the ready light much earlier. By the way, I could trigger some strobes even before their ready light was turned on. I believe 99% of photographers (I am not one of them any more) believe that recycle time means: full power to full power recycle time. Now we have seen that this is not the case and I think that many people wold look at their purchase differently if Inon actually specified what they write in their "specs". It's not a total deal breaker for me but I know a lot of photographers who would spend the extra dollar to get a faster recycle time or maybe spend less if they knew what their recycle time actually is.
  14. On the contrary, it is very clear what the connection between strobe power and F-stop number is: 100% = full 50% = -1 F-stop 25% = -2F-stop 12% = -3F-stop etc. It is also clear that the Inon will fire when the capacitors are at about 20% (before the ready light is turned on). Read the first two posts where the measurements are presented. After this I have confirmed on four different Z-330 the same result. Now let me ask you: If you knew the Z-330 indicates the ready light (full charge) when it is charged to about 30-40% (-1.4 F-stop less power), would you buy it? I know a lot of photographers who would think about it twice if they knew the actual recycle time was about 4-5 seconds. My Z-330's aren't going away for this reason but I want to point out that it is very unfair to photographers who are making choices on their purchase based on completely false and misleading specifications.
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