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About italypeppe

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D800E
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-D800
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon S2000

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  1. I have two lightly used INON S2000 strobes. I bought few years ago and used them on a few trips... around 40 dives on them. Moved to Retra strobes, so I don't need these anymore. Never flooded, and in good condition. Comes with diffuser, original box, manuals, and unused accessory bag (spare o-ring, lube, etc) that came with it. €200 plus shipping each by paypal. Items are located in ITALY.
  2. Hello, Finally I found the time to put online my portfolio, for the moment just few shot are there but I plan to keep updating it. You feedback is most welcome. The photos are shoot with a Nikon D800 + 105mm lens in Nautical housing and few of them with Panasonic LX100 + CMC1 in Nauticam housing. I use two Inon S2000 strobes. https://giuseppepaciolla.myportfolio.com/work
  3. Hi Wolfgang, Perhaps my question was not well posed, I’m sure I will need float, I have for my macro setup and is a good suggestion to ask Nauticam so I won’t have to wait till I have parts and make a weight in water. My point was if by your experience I would need some weight to be stick under the dome port, I know that even if the rig is neutrally buoyant it can tilt if one part is more buoyant in comparison to the others in this case the dome vs the housing + camera. Hope to have clarified my point. Giuseppe
  4. In the end I went for the 140mm dome, can’t wait to test it in water. By your experience will I have to mount some weight to balance it in the water? Will the vacuum system affect the buoyancy? As it should reduce the quantity of air trapped in it.
  5. Mainly two reason, first retain the possibility to use the dome with rectilinear WA lenses (like 16-35) in the future and second the opportunity to buy a 180mm dome pre-owned at competitive price so save some bucks to invest in strobes for instances. On the other hand I do not want to end up with a solution that is neither fish nor fowl, unfortunately I have no possibility to test different solutions first.
  6. That’s true, let’s wait and see once the new model is out how will perform, I do like very much the make, the material is way better than Inon.
  7. No doubt sea cam are among the best strobes, and very expensive, for what concern retra from the compare below seems that in terms of output power the Z-330 is performing better, beam angle is comparable, light temperature is warmer in retra (Here is a matter of taste). https://wetpixel.com/articles/strobe-tests-inon-z330-retra-flash-and-symbiosis-ss2/P5
  8. Thank you Chris for your contribution, your explanation confirm my “fear”. It seems that I will switch to the original plan of getting a Zen-170mm dome port, I have read very good reviews. For the lighting, one day I will decide to invest in a pair of Z-330, they have a GN33 and should be able to illuminate correctly the 180deg of the diagonal FE.
  9. I’m planning to start shooting WA with my D800 (mounted in Nauticam Housing). After a thorough tough I’m planning to use a diagonal fisheye and in particular the Sigma 15mm f2.6. I was wondering if anyone has experience of using this lens with Nauticam 180mm Glass dome port on FX camera, I have gone thru the lens chart provided by Nauticam and this dome is not recommended for this lens while is for Standard wide angle lenses like te 16-35 f4, I wonder if this is due to vignetting or soft corners or other reasons. Further I was wondering if anyone has experience on shooting WA with Video lights as fill and smaller strobes Like the Inon S2000, my idea would be to use 2 video light of 10,000 Lumens each with a beam angle of 110° + 2 INON S2000. Any contribution/suggestion will be highly appreciated.
  10. Thank you for your contributions. By your experience would be better hence to keep sync speed on 1/250 or 1/250 Auto FP ? I would prefer much more to shoot in TTL and not think too much to manually regulate flash intensity, as far as I want an even light. With D800 my experience is based only on land so far, I do some studio photography but the strobe setup is completely different, there you can use a light metering, and in any case have the time to setup the light for the shot, underwater is very different. When I shot wildlife on land I use multiple area focus depending on subject, but I will shoot macro UW so perhaps I will stick with single or 9 points.
  11. Hello, I have just switched to a DSLR system, my setup is a D800E in Nautical Housing with 2 strobe INON S2000 activated by the in-build flash with finer optic cable. I would like to know from someone with similar setup what would be the sync speed I can push the system, has anyone tested at 1/250, 1/320 or above? Second I was wandering if I-TTL mode would work as well as flash exposure compensation, somehow I feel it would be easier to adjust rather than using the small knob of thee strobe. I will be shooting Macro with 105 Micro VR, in your experience is recharging time really bothering in this setup? What alternatives do I have to fire my strobes, and what are the gain ? thank you for your suggestions.
  12. I'm Giuseppe from Italy. happy to be part of this community.
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