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horvendile

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About horvendile

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    Wolf Eel

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sweden

Additional Info

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    Sweden
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon Z6, Z7
  • Camera Housing
    Sea&Sea
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    S&S YS-D1 x 2

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  1. Thanks, very good point about screen clarity! I think the Sea&Sea model is pretty old, at least from 2010. For macro today I think using the rear screen can have some advantages, at least for me. Namely when I find it difficult to get close myself but I can get the camera close. This may simply be a case of more training needed.
  2. Hi! Long time no see et cetera. I'm shooting with a Z6/Z7 in a Sea&Sea housing. So far I've mostly used the camera screen for composing, partly because I'm used to it from compact camera use underwater and partly because looking through the default Sea&Sea viewfinder isn't much fun. Topside I always use the viewfinder. Now I've stumbled upon a reasonably priced used 45 degree 1,2x viewfinder, namely this one https://www.seaandsea.jp/products/digital_slr/accessory/011.html#46111 My questions, for anyone who has used it: Is it easy to see the entire viewfinder screen using it? Does it make use of the camera screen impossible or just cumbersome? Subjectively, does it lend itself well to shooting wider scenes while swimming? Ie not just macro planted on the bottom? (Note: when I'm saying "viewfinder" I mean when you put your eye to the camera, while "camera screen" denotes the big screen on the back of the camera. Just for clarity.)
  3. Yeah, it's port diameter. I'll see if I can find the closeup episode! Edit: found it! Will look when I can. Edit 2: I like that the autocaption writes "nauticam" as "naughty camp".
  4. Yes that was, more or less, my point - that this is of course subjective, but that when the two housings are placed side-by-side the perceived difference of bulk is more marked than those measures suggest.
  5. On Z6/Z7 vs eg D850 size for underwater use: of course this will depend on the brand, but I bought my Sea&Sea Z6/Z7 housing used from a guy who also had the Sea&Sea housing for the D850 and I could compare them beside each other on the table. Yes I know that looking at size charts there is no big difference, and I also know that size of ports and strobes do not change. I maintain, however, that in practice the perceived bulk of the mirrorless housing was notably smaller than the DSLR housing. Not a night-and-day difference, and what's "notably smaller" for me may be dismissed as insignificant for someone else. For me personally though, the mirrorless housing is easier to travel with than the DSLR housing would have been. I would have noticed the difference when packing in the bag I use for uw photo gear.
  6. I'm a bit late to the party here, but given your preference for Nikon this is exactly the recommendation I was was going to suggest. I haven't tried it myself but I've noted that it looks very compact for the technical ability it provides. Additionally, since the WWL-C is a wetlens, you should be able to swap it for a macro wetlens and be able to use both on the same dive.
  7. Hi! While browsing for a extension ring at my go-to underwater photo shop I stumbled over a Nexus macro lens for Sea&Sea: https://exposureunderwater.com/product.html/pre-used-nexus-lens-for-seasea?category_id=389 I should think it's the NCL-90 from this page: https://www.nexusamerica.com/products/Nexus/SuperMacro.html It seems to give a small increase to magnification, for not that much money. A quick search in the forums gives a positive opinion but from 2008. Does anyone have an updated view? Honestly I haven't checked yet whether it will fit on my macro port(s), I'll get to that when I come home from work.
  8. Maybe a stupid question, but have you tried just pushing it back? I don't have it in front of me but I do own the V5 XB and just going on memory pushing it back sounds like it might work.
  9. Late reply, sorry. There's also the Sea&Sea native 165 mm port. Speaking of changing bayonet ring though, is that something which works as a general solution? Suppose that I would want eg the Nauticam WACP or MWL-1. Are those possible to adapt for Sea&Sea use?
  10. Thanks both of you. Yeah, I guess I will have to choose between good edges (€300) and CFWA (€1000). Right now it will probably be the former, if not else for economic reasons.
  11. I'll borrow this thread for a while. I use Nikon Z6/7 in a Sea & Sea housing. I also have the Nikon 8-15 fisheye, used on FTZ adapter of course. Furthermore I have the Zen 230 mm dome and a 40 mm extension. In a thread here last autumn we reached the conclusion that I should probably use a 20 mm extension with the fisheye and the 230 mm dome (so that's not the question here). Before hitting the purchase button I thought I'd see if there are other alternatives that may be better. Specifically, Sea & Sea makes the Optical Dome Port ll 100 L (link) which is "Designed exclusively for (...) Nikon AF-S Fisheye Nikkor 8-15mm F3.5-4.5 E ED". While more expensive than buying just an extension ring this would be a more nimble solution in close quarters. But... is there any reason to believe that this is optically anything special, or is the "designed exclusively" limited to extension length?
  12. You're right of course, I totally mixed things up in my head when writing that post. Funny thing is I started writing it in the correct way, then changed it to the mess it became. So, with NO extension I got close the the glass and that looked wrong. Then I added 40 mm of extension (the only one available to me) and then the front lens was almost flush with the lens opening of the dome. This resulted in the shade being visible in the corners. Thanks for pointing it out. Using 20 mm extension still seems reasonable though. Note that this is for the 8-15 fisheye, not the 14-30.
  13. On another note, to my surprise I used the Nikon 8-15 fisheye very little on the trip. But my limited findings on using it with Sea&Sea housing are: [NOTE: I got things backwards in my head when writing about extensions in the following paragraph. ChrisRoss points it out further down in the thread and I stand corrected.] The lens chart recommends using no extension at all with the S&S 230 mm dome port. I tried this for the Zen 230 mm dome port; this configuration worked fine with the Sigma 15 mm fisheye. However, at 15 mm the Nikon shows the dome shade in the extreme corners. While the shade can be removed I don't want to do that, I just know I'll scrape the glass on some rocks. The only extension I had was 40 mm and using that the front of the lens ends up quite close to the glass in the dome port. I didn't like the look of that but never actually tried it in the water. My idea is to get a 20 mm extension ring. Should be ok. Of course, cropping the images slightly is a cheaper option. With the Z7 I have a lot of pixels but yes I will lose field of view if I crop. Edit: adding non-cropped image.
  14. Next up is this picture at 16 mm and f/11, a more common setting. This crop shows the entire short side and upper corners of the sensor in portrait orientation. Focus is - I would assume - on the diver at the bottom of the crop. If you think it's too hard to see I can do some more crops of this picture.
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