Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by chris_l

  1. bear,

    I respect your opinion and I'm sure the nauticam em1 is a great setup.

    But, you seem to imply that the epl1 does not have manual controls. I'm not sure if that's what you were trying to say, but just wanted to make it clear that all EPLx cameras have a manual setting and manual control of everything. Now, those cameras don't have as many dials and controls as an em1 or an em5, so you might have to go to menus or such, but it can be done. On my EPL2 in M mode, I find it quite easy to change the shutter or fstop. Just one push of a button, then the up/down controls shutter and the left right control aperture. All EPLx cameras I have tried work this way.

    Also, all olympus housing give you access to all buttons on a given camera. You may prefer the ergonomics of one housing over another, but wanted to point out that all the controls are available.



  2. The sony is a great camera, if only it could accept the olympus 60mm macro or the panasonic 8mm FE. Make sure to look at the complete system.

    The best camera without lens and ports to support it is not as good as a great camera with all the necessary lens and ports.


    I don't know much about the YS-D1, but I use an Inon D2000. Look at what the other folks in this thread are saying they use for strobes, Inon S2000, Inon Z240.

    The inons mesh very well with the olympus for getting the exposure right. I use TTL a lot. It gets it right over 90% of the time.

  3. The extension ring is the same part used with the Olympus 43 series housings (E-300, E-330, E-400/410 %20 Ect.) for use with the 1.4X teleconverter. The extender could be used to add the TC to the 50mm macro lens or to extend the 8mm fisheye. These parts are also sold by Inon, Athena and more. The dome is the same 170mm optical glass port used with the Old 43 Olympus 7-14 and a longer extension. The only new part is the gear.






    The new port for the 8 mm F/1.8 Pro is already in the Q at http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8289


    Unfortunately the new Olympus E-M5 MKII housing reverts back to the PEN housings port system.

    Interesting as the link you provide lists the pt-ep12, pt-ep13 & pt-ep10 as being compatible with the port.

    Obviously those are housings with the same PEN port design as before.

    There must be an adapter for the port or someone made a mistake.

  4. I too worked up from an olympus C3000, then to a fuji F30, then an Olympus epl2. That jump to the epl2 was huge. Really improved my images tremendously. I now have an epl7 which I haven't actually used yet.

    I had the oly housing for epl2 and I loved it. It's never failed me, I like the ergonomics and combined with the Zen 100WA port is extremely versatile going from the wide angle 9-18 to the very sharp 60mm macro. Just wanted to give another perspective on the olympus housings. I think they're great values. Are they as good as the aluminum ones, I can't answer that as I haven't used one, but for me, they are are very good and I love the travel profile of the system.

    I now have the oly housing for the epl7. I'll report on that later, but not much difference there.


    The current deal on the em5 with the oly housing is very good. Kind of depends on how much you want to spend and what all you need. Don't forget budget for strobes, trays, arms. You'd be much better served with a fully outfitted em5 setup than an em1 without proper lighting. With the em5, you could also afford more lens.

    If you like macro at all, you have to get the 60mm. It's that good.

  5. Olympus epl2 camera with 14-42 lens and PT-EP03 housing.

    Both in great shape and fully operational. The housing has never flooded.

    Older camera, but still takes very nice pictures.

    Housing has desirable original port which fits 14-42, 9-18 and 60mm lenses.


    What you get:

    EPL2 camera and 14-42 lens.

    One battery and charger.

    PT-EP03 housing.


    Price: $400

    Buyer pays shipping. Paypal.

    I am in the US, so would prefer a US buyer, but if you pay the shipping, I'll ship it.post-8973-0-22158500-1430446328_thumb.jpgpost-8973-0-74477800-1430446355_thumb.jpg

  6. Do you guys know this for a fact?

    When I look at all the pictures on the backscatter website I see what looks like the same interface as my epl2 housing.

    The standard port looks different, but the port looks removable. If you look at the pic looking into the housing with the door open, you can see the locking tab on the port. At least, that's what I think I see.

    Also look at the picture from straight above. You clearly see a gap between the housing and the port.

  7. Ok guys, the original poster specifically asked about the 8mm FE on a PEN housing with precision dome.

    Now, let's compare the size weight of a PEN housing with the precision dome and what ever RX100 housing you chose with the necessary add on lens to get you to equivalent FE view. I don't have those numbers, but based on my experience with the Inon 165AD I'd be willing to bet there's barely a scintilla of difference in size & weight.


    And what about the optical performance of the compact camera lens and then going through a flat port, then an add on lens.

    As opposed to a dedicated FE lens and port. That's what he asked about.

    I gave my EXPERIENCE with the ZEN semi dome which works well for some of other lens.

    It would be nice if someone gave actual experience of the precision dome with the 8mm on the PEN housing.


    Interceptor in your list of weights, what is the weight with an add on FE lens?

  8. That's quite a claim interceptor.

    did you see the link john referenced with the photo by Alex Mustard with the em5 & 8mm FE?

    Can you show anything equivalent from an rx100.


    As far as the size issue. I had an inon 165AD FE lens on a Fuji F30 about 5 years ago. I replaced it with the epl2.

    That little tiny F30 with the add on lens was essentially the same size as my epl2 with the Zen 100 port, but the F30 had worse handling characteristics because all the weight was in the front. And an Oly PEN housing with the precision port is even a smaller profile.

    So, for shooting FE, it's my opinion that the PEN with precision dome will be a better handling rig than an add on wet mount FE lens.


    Understand, I'm not bashing the rx100 and if I was buying from scratch today it would be high on my list.

    I just find some of these statements and claims hard to believe. And most come with no proof.

  9. I shoot an epl2 in the OEM housing with the Zen 100 dome. If you search you'll find other posts where I extol the virtues of this setup. It doesn't give you a fisheye capability, but it gives you the ability to use 3 lens in the same port (14-42 kit, 9-18WA and 60mm macro).

    This is very versatile and you don't have to change the port, just the lens. You can go from a 100 degree WA view to very good macro with just lens changes. The olympus 60mm macro is superb and you will probably not be able to match it's performance in the P&S world.


    I very much disagree with the comment about the size of the olympus OEM housing. It is no where near the size or weight of a DSLR housing. My bro-in-law has gone from an ikelite D300 to an aquatica D7000 and while the aquatica is smaller and much more ergonomic it's still larger and very much heavier than the oly OEM housing.

    I used to shoot an older high end P&S. While my epl2 is larger than that, once you add the strobe (D2000), it's really not that much of a difference in the total package.


    While I have not used the panasonic 8mm, it is considered excellent.


    I would imagine your ex was shooting the kit lens on the epm1. The kit lens is ok, but I rarely use it any more. I pretty much stick to the 9-18 or the 60mm. The 9-18 is very good and the 60 is exceptional.


    I also really like the ergonomics of the OLY housing. It just fits my hand well (average sized guy).


    I'm sure that some very skilled photographers can get a better image from a S100 than I can from a m4/3 camera. But, I own an S95, and 3 different m4/3 (em5, epm1, epl2) and everyone of my m43 cameras will outperform my S95 very significantly (as they should). BTW, at one point I had nikon DX equipment (D50, D7000). The D7000 is excellent, but the em5 can match it or beat it 98% of the time. (note, i've never used either of those underwater).

    It's the lens that make a big difference. If you're only ever going to shoot the kit lens maybe you should stick with P&S, but in the m4/3 world you have available to you 2 very highly regarded lens at opposite ends of the spectrum, the 8mm FE and the 60mm macro.


    You could also go the nauticam housing route.


    So you've seen first hand a big ikelite rig, a smaller P&S rig and an oly EPM1. I think you can judge for yourself the size/weight trade off of them all without other folks telling you something is big/small. The only thing you're missing for reference is an ergonomic aluminum housing for a DSLR (nauticam, aquatica, etc).

  10. I would go epl5 for sure over the epl3. However, I don't think either the epl5 or em5 achieve 1/320 flash sync as someone said. I think only the em1 does that. epl5 & em5 go to 1/250. epl3 is 1/160 which is the same as epl2 (I shoot an epl2).


    I have to very much disagree with the comment that a PEN is not that much of an upgrade over an S95.

    I own an S95 and it's a terrific camera for the size and portability and versatility. But, my epl2 is much better for image quality. Some of this goes to lens also. If only using the kit lens on the PENs then you're not getting the full power of these cameras. Make no mistake, it's still better than the S95, but if you put the 60mm macro on you'll get great pictures from any of the PEN line. I use the 60mm and 9-18 on an epl2. I was coming from different P&S cameras underwater and the quality is another level or two.

    I also owned a Nikon D7000. An EPL2 is not as good as the nikon but, it's pretty close. Biggest difference is focus speed. I now have an em5 and I'd say it is 98% of a D7000.

    I have also purchased an epm1 refurbed body for cheap ($119) and with my 17mm pancake on it, it has completely replaced my S95 as my small carry camera. It's a little larger than the S95, but the quality of the pictures is so much better.


    So, after all that, I'm saying you'll take a step up with any of the PENs over the S95.


    If you want to change ports and lens often, go with the nauticam and the em5.


    However, a very versatile and easy setup is similar to what I have.

    You could get the epl5 & oly housing. Then get the ZEN dome for the 9-18mm. This dome will accommodate the 9-18, the 60mm and the 14-42. You can now go semi wide (100 degree view) all the way to very tight macro without ever changing a port.

    I use this setup on my epl2 housing and really love the versatility of it. I occasionally do miss being able to go with a fisheye lens, but it's not that big a deal to me.


    BTW, I like the oly PEN housings. I think they are well made and ergonomically fit my hand well.

    I've never used a pricey aluminum housing, so I might not know what I'm missing.

    I find changing shutter/aperture easy. It is with push buttons and not wheels, but fairly straight forward to me.

    In manual mode, one push of the top button on the jog wheel enables changing shutter/app with the 4 jog wheel positions. So, you just push the top jog button, then the top/bottom jog buttons will increase/decrease shutter speed and the left/right will increase/decrease aperture. I may have some of those details incorrect, but that's generally how it works. I'm assuming its the same for epl3 & 5. I know the epm1 takes more steps than that.

  11. You have to understand how optical ttl is working to understand why these modes don't work.

    I have an Inon D2000 so I'll talk from that perspective, but it's the same in entire inon line and I think sea&sea also.

    In inon sttl mode, the strobe is basically watching the camera flash and quelching it's flash at the same time. So, the camera has to be in a mode where it's determing flash duration. Otherwise the external strobe has no timing signal to work off of. If you put the camera in manual flash, which is what you're doing when you select 1/64, then your strobe sees a flash that has nothing to with the exposure for that picture. It's seeing whatever you told the camera strobe to do.

    So, if you put the camera in manual flash, your strobe becomes manual.


    Now, on an Inon, the way to try and work around this is to use the external auto mode. In this mode, the inon strobe is determining flash duration itself with no input from the camera other than when to start. If using EA mode, then put the camera on 1/64 to save power and quicken refresh time. At this point, you're constricted by the recharge of the inon strobe itself and not the camera. But, from experience, I can tell you that EA is not as consistent in getting the exposure correct as using the cameras ttl with the strobe in sttl.

    On my epl2, I'm generally in manual with flash set to fill and my D2000 on sttl.

    I find the D2000's recycle time is similar to the epl2 being ready to go again.


    Of course, you can always go full manual with camera and strobe as you've already figured out.



  12. Obviously, I'm not Phil, but that is an interesting thing you point on the Olympus site. It's obviously a misprint. Notice that it only gives a view of 62 degrees for a multi focal lens. It should obviously be a range. If you look at dpreview of that lens it list it as 62-100 degrees.


    On the olympus site look at the 17mm. It is listed at 65 degrees. The 12mm is 84 degrees.

    Obviously a misprint on the 9-18.

  13. Do you know if the epl1 comes with the 14-42 I or II lens. The original EPL1 lens (14-42 I) was slow to focus. But, it could focus closer for doing macro work. The 14-42 II focuses faster and it's noticeable. There isn't much difference between the 14-42 II and the R version.


    There was a point where some people were ordering the epl1 and getting the II version of the lens.

    Slow focus was one of the knocks against the epl1, but it had more to do with the original kit lens.

    If you put use the 9-18, or the 14-42 II then it's not a big deal.

  14. The EVF for the epl1 in the housing was pretty much considered useless. Hardly anyone used it that way.

    Note that the epl2 and future housings didn't support that. The EM5 housing does, but if someone wants to use the viewfinder they usually get the Nauticam housing.

    Why can you only review last shot on epm1, don't understand. The housing has access to all the buttons, right? Never heard of this.


    I'd switch to EPM1 myself.


    Another advantage to epm1 you didn't mention is 1080p video. epl1 is 720p.


    I have the epl2 and have not used either of these models, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

  15. Why would optical fiber strobes be considered a greater risk? I've seen lots of hard wired synch cords and or sockets leak or break. Some of them frying the camera or strobe.


    Only problem I've seen with optical fiber connections have been fixed with duct tape


    I think you misinterpreted some posts.

    I know I was saying that a flood was easier to recover from if you had fiber optic strobes. Thus, I consider FO strobes less of a risk.

  • Create New...