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chris_l

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Everything posted by chris_l

  1. I really know nothing about the ikelite other than it's less powerful than the inon. Didn't realize there was such a price difference. I can tell you my own experience. I had a sealife SL960D and it worked fine. Recharge was slow, but it worked. I now have an Inon D2000 and it's so much better. Yes, it cost twice as much, but it's really nice. The inon S-TTL is a nice feature. If you mostly do macro, then I'm sure the ikelite is fine. If you want to do wider angle stuff and more reefscapes, it might not be powerful enough. But, I say that based only on specs. who makes the fuji. I have a feeling it's a repackaged strobe with fuji's name on it.
  2. try looking posts about the S90 and dc35, it's essentially the same camera. I don't know about the sea&sea strobes, but I would buy an Inon S2000 before the ikelite. you'll have to rig up a fiber optic connections on the housing. something like this: http://www.backscatter.com/HostedStore.Las...=youbetcha& I guess the ikelite does have the advantage of not needing that or the fiber cable. The downside is that other people's flashes could possibly set it off. you might also want to try asking here: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/canon-corner/
  3. Thanks for those links. Hadn't seen that info. The info on Steve's digicams is very different. The info you provided looks more definitive.
  4. Is this statement backed up by any facts? All the results I've seen show the S95 to be almost identical to the S90 in timing performance.
  5. You might also want to look at the Olympus E-PL1 and the olympus housing. It's a micro 4/3 system, so not a P&S and not a DSLR. It does have an optical viewfinder that can be added. Not sure how good it is underwater, I think most people will be using the LCD screen, but since you added that requirement it fits. It should probably be in your consideration anyway. The Canon G12 would probably be your best P&S option, but as mentioned there really is no way to do optical viewfinder underwater with a P&S
  6. I serviced my olympus pt-010 a few years ago. It worked out fine and definitely made it work better. The buttons were getting a little sticky and I took all of them apart. Cleaned things up and put a little silicon grease on the orings. There was a website with very detailed instructions on the pt-010, but it doesn't look like it's around any more.
  7. Thanks. I did find the scubaboard thread. Some good discussion there. Not much info on yet on what the cameras in the wp-v2 add/subtract from the original setup.
  8. Hi, I've been doing underwater photography since 2002 but always with a smaller point & shoot. First I had an olympus C4000 in the pt-010. I currently have a Fuji F30 in the fuji housing with an Inon D2000 strobe. The fuji is sometimes frustrating because it does not have full manual controls. My ideal setup would be the canon S90 if it had HD video, but it doesn't. I've gotten to the point where I'm having more fun taking videos underwater than photos, so I'm considering a dedicated video setup. So now to my questions. I see that canon is offering the WP-V1 case for the HF20 & HF200. I do not plan on using video lights. Can you do manual white balance with this setup? I've seen reference to an underwater mode on these cameras? Has anyone used this and how good is it? Does it have a sweet spot as far as depth that works well with it? Would a filter be better? If I did decide to add a light, what is the recommendation? I also see now there is the WP-V2 for the M31, M30 and M300. What is advantage of these cameras over the ones for the WP-V1? A few more details about what I'm after: I realize there are better video setups out there, but I'm trying not to break the bank. The price point for the canon is acceptable, but at the upper end of what I want to spend. I usually dive once a year on a live aboard. I will be going to the Galapagos in May, so if I get a video system I need to act fast to have it for that trip. Is there a recommended video software package? I have both PC & Mac, but I'll probably be getting a new PC laptop with i5 core. Thanks for any and all info. Chris
  9. Update: Strobe was used on about 12 dives in Cayman in September. Worked like a champ. In pristine condition. Price reduced to $390. Note that this includes diffuer, optical sync cord and YS adapter. Buyer pays shipping.
  10. Price reduced to $425 I am in Austin, Texas.
  11. I'm selling a D2000S along with the inon optical sync cable, diffuser and YS adapter which allows connection to sea&sea arms. (Note, if you need a different adapter this one can be easily removed.) All parts are essentially brand new, never been on a dive. The strobe has only seen a couple of test fires in my house. I bought this in January, but have since decided I don't want to deal with 2 strobes, I already have a D2000 which is fantastic. Includes the manual and all the extras that come with an Inon strobe: extra oring, grease, magnet. Price: $450 & buyer pays shipping. Paypal Thanks for looking, Chris
  12. The buttons on this housing look very much like my old olympus pt-010. I serviced it myself by taking the clips off and removing the whole button assembly. I cleaned everything up and lubed the orings. It went well and definitely made the buttons work more smoothly. You're right that it's probably not worth paying to have someone work on it, but give it a try yourself. It'll take a couple of hours. If you're at all mechanically inclined, it's not that hard and easy to figure out. PS, there used to be a very detailed description on the web about the pt-010, but I can't find it now. maybe someone else knows where that lives.
  13. For you G9 folks out there. I walked in to my local Circuit City (Austin, TX) yesterday. They had the G9 listed at $309. Things were crazy in there so couldn't find an employee to ask about it. So, I don't know if that was the floor model or if they had any more. Just FYI.
  14. I don't think canon makes a housing for the 590. Originally it was rumored that a 590 would fit in the 570 housing, but canon doesn't list it as supported and I haven't seen anyone say it will fit. You can still get the 570 and housing if you look aroung. It's not as cheap as it used to be, but it's not bad either. As far as the inon lense, it depends on what you want to do. I have the 165 fisheye which I use with a Fuji F30. It's fun for stills and video. I got some great video of mantas on a night dive in Hawaii which I could not have gotten without the FE lense. The mantas came within inches of the camera. I debated the 105WA to the 165FE and went with the FE. It's bigger and bulkier, but you get a wider angle obviously. Lots of people seem to like both, hard to go wrong with either.
  15. I have the Fuji F30 in the fuji housing and it's a nice camera. I think Alex has the F40. Neither of these cameras is made any more. From looking at their website, it looks like the F50 would be the best bet. The housing looks very similar to the F30 housing. I have been very impressed with the housing and think it's the best made P&S housing I've seen. I previously had an olympus pt-010. I also purchased a Canon A570 + housing, but returned it because it wasn't as good as my F30 in some respects. There was nothing wrong with the canon, but the housing definitely wasn't as sturdy as the F30. For putting in a pocket, banging around, general abuse, I think the fuji is hard to beat. And my little F30 takes some great pictures. You know they also make housings for some of those olympus waterproof cameras if you want to go deeper than the rating. So you could get that and have a pretty worry free system from a flooding standpoint.
  16. Yes, I was referring to the movie mode. Go here: http://www.johnspierce.com/ to see a video I shot wth the F30 in hawaii. Scroll down just a tad to see the manta video. This is my brother-in-law's site. He shoots a D70 in an ikelite housing with a DS125 The F30 is a pocket rocket. It does amazing things for it's size.
  17. Robert, I almost bought the Z240 simply because it came with the diffusers. If you price out all the diffusers, then it's not that much different than the D2000 plus diffusers, but I only wanted the -0.5 white diffuser, so that's what I got. The extra power of the Z240 would be nice also. It is my understanding that the sttl circuit is identical between the 2 strobes. Most folks who buy the 240 are using it with DSLRs but there are some using it with Point & shoots. I haven't heard anyone having a problem, it pretty much is a D2000 with more power. At the time I got the D2000, I didn't plan on upgrading to DSLR because I also like to use the video mode. Now that the D90 is out, I might change my mind and kind of wish I had gotten the Z240 so it would be easier if I do upgrade. But, oh well. If I decide to do that, D2000s sell well in the used market. Chris
  18. Robert, Here is a sample of my photos from Hawaii: http://picasaweb.google.com/c65leblanc/KonaHawaii# When I looked at this I was surprised to see the F-stop with lots of 3.2, 5.0 along with the 2.8. You can see that DOF is generally ok. This camera is not a DSLR and it shows in the pics, but for what it is it takes pretty good shots. Most of these shots were taken with the inon fisheye lense. In your situation, I would definitely get the Z240. It is more powerful than the D2000. Another good thing is that it comes with a variety of diffusers. I had to buy a diffuser separately. The STTL mode was correct at least 80% of the time. I was impressed with it. I usually had it set on sttl-low. I would sometimes further change the exposure a notch or two. There is no reason to use a further converter for the inon sttl. STTL is the reason to buy the inon for use with small cameras which aren't hard wired. If you're not going to use that function, there are cheaper strobes out there, but the sttl is well worth it. I hope that covers what you were interested in. Feel free to ask more questions. Chris
  19. Hi Robert, I mostly use A/S mode with forced flash. It depends on what I'm shooting and lighting conditions as to which I choose. I normally use S mode with 1/125 shutter speed. This will normally chose f 2.8, but if more light it will sometimes pick f4 or f5.6. If shooting fish, I will always use S mode because in A mode it will chose 1/60 shutter speed most times which results in blurry fish. If shooting the reef or wide angle, I'll use A mode, escpecially if looking up and the sun is bright. If I'm shallow and shooting a wide scene, sometimes I switch into the built in underwater mode. This works quite well. It turns off the flash, and gives pretty decent results. I currently have the UFL-165AD fisheye lense, which I like. I intend to get the UCL-165AD macro lense also. My wife and I were in New Zealand in November 2006 and spent a few days in Christchurch. We spent 2 weeks on the south island and it was fantastic. Chris
  20. Removed now that we've established D90 doesn't have VR built into the body.
  21. I have a F30 in a fuji housing (same one used for F31). I added an Inon D2000 strobe. I think this is the best choice for optically fired strobes. You can use it manual or the STTL function. I mostly used STTL and it works great. Really nice. I recently did a week in Kona on the Agressor and I was very happy with my F30/D2000 combination. I use this tray and arm: http://www.scuba.com/scuba-gear-540/068293...Single-Set.html It was donated to me by my brother-in-law when he upgraded to DSLR. It works fine and is very small and compact. I do wish sometimes that I had a handle to hold on to. For that reason, I'd choose either your first or last choice in your list. Regarding your list of choices, they will all work. Only thing I'd look into is how the optical cable attaches to the camera housing. I have the inon mount base because I also have Inon add on lenses (165AD fisheye and I'm going to add the 165AD close up lense). The mount base has a provision for the optical cord. This is the mount base: http://www.inonamerica.com/products.php?pr...10&subcat=1 almost forgot you also need this if you go with the mount base: http://www.inonamerica.com/products.php?pr...=4&subcat=1 You don't need the mount base and the optical setup like this. But if you're going to use add on lenses, then it makes sense. If you notice, the ulcs option you listed has an optical cable with a velcro setup which will do the job. The other bundles you list say optical cable, but check that there is a way to attach to the camera (like the velcro setup). The big advantage to inon setup is that you are also provided with a cover for the internal flash so none of the internal flashes light gets out and causes backscatter or the exposure to be off. You could order this: http://www.inonamerica.com/products.php?pr...=6&subcat=1 and hook it up to your camera. It's not necessary, but it will help in certain situations. So, after all that, I'd just order option number 3 you listed. It has everything you need and will fit.
  22. Only smartmedia. You'll get 6 memory cards with purchase. Two 128MB, 3 64MB, 1 32MB. A single 128 card holds approximately 130 photos or 1 photo per MB. So all cards combined, approximately 480 photos.
  23. Ok, let's get this sold. $200 and buyer pays shipping. The strobe alone is worth that much. A great way to try out UW photography for next to nothing.
  24. I have the F30 in the Fuji housing and I like it, but it's out of production now and way over priced. If I were buying today I'd probably get the Canon A570is, you can get camera and housing for under 350: http://www.amazon.com/Canon-WP-DC12-Waterp...5179&sr=1-7 You could add an Inon D2000 & the mountbase, tray, arm if you like. After all that you're only slightly more than the $950 you quoted for the F30. Don't pay 950 for an F30, it's not worth it. Just for reference, I paid $200 for mine(refurbished model) and $150 for the housing. if you don't feel like piecing things together yourself you can buy this already packaged up: http://www.backscatter.com/HostedStore.Las...=cn&sop=AND that's a nice system. If you want to stay small and fuji, you could get the f40 or f50. As a shamless plug, I still have this available: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20099&hl= I'm willing to sell for $250. That's the whole shooting match for that, Including a strobe. You can get good pics from this setup. Now, the one listed above is better, but you can see the price difference.
  25. Crawdad, A question (or two) for you: What is the device on the left hand side of your picture attached to the long tray? Do you find your D2000 with the diffuser gives enough coverage to light up what the inon FE lense sees? I have a new D2000 and the 165FE lense. I also have my old sealife SL960D strobe. It's not as nice as the D2000 and you have to set it manually, but it does throw light in the water which is the main function of a strobe. I was thinking about using it in combo with the D2000 to help with WA shots and fill lighting. Thanks.
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