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Posts posted by chris_l

  1. An update on this.

    Reef Photo worked with Inon and sent me a new lense.

    Now the shade is aligned and all is well.


    I also received my D2000. I think I'm all set now.

    Just a little upgrade from my old C4000 in a pt-010 with a sealife strobe. Not that I'm knocking that setup, it served me well for many years and is still ready to go.



  2. I have the F30 with the 105AD lens. If the lens is not aligned just right, you can see the lens protector/shade in the photo. You have to have the shades exactly at 90 degree angles to get them out of the photo. Not sure if the same goes for the 165.






    I thought of that, but I don't see how to align them at 90 degree angles. I can't rotate the shade, can I?


    The inon manual was very specific about not twisting that. Maybe mine is just misaligned from the factory.

    I tried every starting mounting angle on the AD mount, but no joy.




  3. I have a UFL165AD lense for a Fuji F30 in the fuji housing with the AD mount base.

    With the F30 at it's widest, I see the lense protector of the 165. I don't know if that's technically vignetting, but it's not what I think of as vignetting.

    The 165 has 4 plastic dome protectors, 2 are larger and protrude more. I'm seeing these in the view. I have to zoom to eliminate the view.

    Is anyone else using the 165 with the F30?

    What about the 105, does it do the same?

    The Fuji is only a 3x zoom. It has a 36-108mm equivalent.


    Has anyone seen this on any other cameras?



  4. I've owned and used both a C3000 & C4000 in a pt-010.

    I also have a Fuji F30 in the Fuji housing.

    I purchased the canon A570, but ended up returning it. It does have a great list of features for the price, but the focus in available light was just too slow for me.

    I wasn't so worried about shot to shot time because my strobe has a long recycle, but the shutter lag felt very much like the C3000/C4000


    Read this entire thread for my impressions.



    Of course, I never actually used it underwater, so take it with a grain of salt.

  5. Match your camera f stop setting with the strobe setting and shoot. One hint for you. Set your playback mode to show you the histogram. Take a image and then switch to playback and check your exposure.


    Have fun!






    this person said they had the D2000S.

    Don't you need external auto mode to do what you're describing?

    I'm trying to decide between the D2000 & D2000S for my F30 setup so I want to understand it clearly.



  6. Ok, an update on this.


    I bought the mount base and the 165 fisheye lense. I was originally going with the 105WA, but changed my mind and got the fisheye. Haven't tried it underwater yet.


    I have the sea&sea light tray and arm (generously donated from my brother-in-law as he upgraded to DSLR). That tray has a thumbscrew in a slot. The thumbscrew was not long enough with the base installed. No problem, I drilled out one end of the slot to release the screw. I had a few different thumbscrews of varying length to try and got one to work, although it required some filing of the plastic collar to fit the slot.

    The sea&sea has kind of a rubbery base which holds the camera fairly well.

    However, the mount base has extra holes in it which you can put a bolt in. I may drill another hole in the tray to allow me to put a bolt though. This would ensure no rotational movement of the camera housing.


    I haven't seen any other filters other than the 10bar AD red filter. I'm leaning towards auto magic filter for use in video mode. That would allow use with the FE lense. I wonder how that would work. Of course, the downside is you're stuck in video or available light stills for the whole dive.

    I don't know of any camera that allows manual WB in video mode.


    To answer another thing someone mentioned, I'm using a strobe (maybe 2) so I need the tray.

  7. Splash,

    How did you flood your F30?

    I've found the housing for the F30 to be the best point & shoot housing I've seen from a camera manufacturer. Double O-ring with a very nice cam system to bring in the back door. And the lense port has screws holding it in. That's kind of a plus and minus. It makes that very secure, but it eliminates the adapter ring the olympus housings have.

    Even though I've never flooded my olympus pt-010, I feel more secure with the fuji housing.

  8. Well, I also have the F30.

    I just purchases a Canon A570IS. I chose it because it has full manual controls and an inon AD mount base. I was planning on getting the fisheye lense.

    But, the focus performance of the 570 is very disappointing. The F30 is much faster, almost twice as fast. If both are prefocused with a half press, then they are about the same. But, if it's full press, the Fuji blows away the Canon.


    I wonder if the other Canon A models are better. Problem is most of them have the weird oval port on the canon housing, so it's hard to add lenses.


    I have used an olympus C4000 for years and the 570 is barely faster than that camera. I've only used the F30 on a few dives. My wife used it with no strobe while I had the C4000.


    Someone already asked if you had F30 bits to sell.

    I'll ask the same. If you have the inon mount base I'd be interested in that or inon lenses.

  9. These superzooms are nice on land, but they complicate things underwater. I think you would be better off with "normal" camera such as the Canon A570is or Olympus SP-350.


    Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a question for deserteagle.

    I see in your profile you have an SP310 and a fuji f31.

    I'm somewhat similar in my equipment, just a little older. I have an oly C4000 and a fuji F30.

    Can you tell me how you like your F31, how you mainly use it, settings, etc.

    Thanks for the help.

  10. I have a Fuji F30 in the fuji housing.

    I'd like to add an Inon 105 wide angle lense. I know I need the inon AD mount adapter for my housing.

    The real question is can I use the inon mount on any tray or do I really need the inon tray for this?

    Which, of course, raises the price of the whole deal.


    Also, I would like a color correcting filter mainly for taking videos. Are there any that fit the AD mount. I saw one from 10bar, but that's only one I could see.


    One more issue. In my perfect world it would be nice to put on the filter and then the WA lense to be able to do video. Is that possible with the AD system?



  11. One subject not brought up here is regular service for small OEM housings. Due to all the control buttons, they will ultimately require some service. Many here regard them as somewhat disposabe. On the other hand, all the Ike housings are fully serviceable.


    Just because some people deem the OEM housing as disposable and unserviceable, doesn't mean they are.

    I have serviced the control buttons on my pt-010. It definitely made a difference.

    Now, not everyone might want to do that, but it can be done and it really wasn't that difficult.


    Here's a link on how to handle a pt-010:



    I wasn't as thorough as this guy, but it came out fine.


    I've seen and handled a few ikelite housings and they are more sturdy than the OEMs I have experience with. But, the OEMs, in my experience, are fine if taken care of.

  12. take a look at the sea and sea rang of strobes as you can adjust flash or pre-flash settings on the strobe itself. Designed for P&S camera's.


    I have the sealife SL960D. You can only change the preflash setting inside the strobe, so can't do it while underwater. It does have an amazing range of options though. You can set it for 0-4 preflahes, but can't change on the fly.

    My olympus C4000 always fires a preflash even in manual mode. Actually I never use full manual. I let the camera do the focusing. I set the aperture and shutter speed. maybe if you tried that it would still fire the preflash.

  13. I currently shoot a Fuji F30 in the fuji housing.

    I have a Sealife SL960D strobe which has served me fairly well with an older olympus C4000 and the F30.

    I'm now considering a new strobe. I intend to use this with the fuji. The main feature I am looking for in the new strobe is automatic, optical exposure control. Based on that criteria, I have narrowed my choices to the 3.

    Inon D2000, Sea&Sea YS110, Inon Z240.

    Am I missing a major contender?

    If not, which is the right one? Which is the best one barring price?

    Since the exposure control is the most important thing to me which has the best or is the difference significant? Inon calls their's S-TTL, Sea&Sea calls it DS-TTL.

    Is there a difference in the D2000 & Z240 in this regard.


    How important is the light output?

    The D2000 is GN 20, the 110 is 22, the 240 is 24.


    I'm leaning towards the D2000 because I rarely hear anything negative about it.

    I also plan on adding the Inon UWL-105 wide angle lense.


    Thanks for any advice.

  14. The 5060 is a great camera, but it's out of production and hard to find. My brother-in-law has one and flooded it. He had a hard time finding a replacement at a decent price. They go for more than $300 on ebay.


    I don't really know what's the best option out there now, but I would go for something newer. If you do find a 5060 and housing now, when and if you have a problem down the road it'll be even harder to replace it.

  15. I knew somebody would misunderstand this -- I should've gone back & edited it. On a particular sensor, all of the HR pixels are the same size, as opposed to SR pixels, where you have big & little pixels mixed together in the same camera. So, no, the F50's sensor is not larger than the F30's. They're the essentially same overall size, and thus, each F50 pixel is half the size of a F30 pixel.


    Thanks for the reply. I didn't think the F50's sensor would be twice as large. That's why I asked the question.

    So what you are saying is that the F50 has a different type of sensor from the F30, is that correct?

  16. I'm selling my olympus C4000 setup. I'm upgrading.

    Included is:

    Olympus C4000 with manual, usb cable, av cable to drive TV, 4 smartmedia cards.

    PT-010 housing

    Sealife SL960D strobe with optical cable, arm and tray.


    This is everything you need to take pictures.

    The strobe can be used with almost any digital camera and has manual output level control. This is an upgrade over the SL960 which always produces a full flash.

    This setup has been on about 3 dive trips. It's always been reliable, no flooding.

    It's old and slow, but you can still produce good pictures. See attachments as examples as what can be done.


    Price: $350

    Buyer pays shipping.




  17. "Full Manual Photographic Control: Gives the user total control with manual adjustment options for settings on the camera (resolution, ISO, aperture, shutter speed, etc), and is desirable by the photo enthusiasts/advanced photographers."


    I didn't see that statement, so maybe. However, the same can be said of the F30/F31. The problem is you can't set them independently.

    I guess we'll have to wait and see.

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