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Everything posted by aviator8

  1. Ill take a shot, but my opinion is just an opinion as I have never attempted blackwater shots myself. The first link is the best of the three. The eyes are in focus and draws you into the face. I would clean up some of the backscatter though. Link two is my least favorite. The fish is looking down and away and does not pull me into the picture. Link three Is an interesting composition. I like how the fins all fan out around the body. The focus appears to be slightly forward of the eyes though. The coral below and behind him caught some light and distracts a bit as well since it did not black out. The all show blue tinge on the outside fins. Is that from post processing? I would expect white to blue as the light falls off, but some of that bluish is on fins closest to the light source. I just haven't seen it with lionfish before.
  2. I am selling my 10K lumen Scubalamp video light. This was the first video light I got when I got back into diving. I have since purchased other lights and this one is gathering dust so I am offering it up for sale. This light has a 16 LED bank for white lighting and 5 LED's for red and 5 for UV/blue. It has two buttons for operation, one for white lighting with a high/med/low selection, and the other for cycling UV/red. It charges via any standard USB micro charger, which is not pictured but is included. The light comes with the case as pictured, a ball attachment joint, the original replacement O Rings plus 8 extra spare O-Rings which I got from my local Scubalamp distributor. Total MAh is 77.7 which is under the TSA 100MAH limits for airline travel. There are a few minor dings/scratches along the front and rear edges which do not affect the light in any way. This is a great light to start with if you want to pack a lot of power without the huge budget of many of the video lights on the market. was $400 no $330 shipped to the lower 48 I forgot that I had not listed here and only had it posted on another forum
  3. how deep are you shooting? My first reaction is strobe then lens, but if you are shooting shallow you might be able to get away with a red filter and the WA until you can afford the strobe. Also you should check to see if you can rent one or the other so you don't have to sacrifice.
  4. Personally what I found annoying about the stick on's was that in my normal line of sight they were annoying and the optical edge between the corrective lens and the mask was bothersome. I thought it would be like my glasses but it wasn't. I tried moving them down so that I could shift my eyes to glance down to look at my camera of gauges. In reality this didn't work for me. When I am composing with the camera it is out in front of me or pointing up slightly. In order to use them in the position I had to crane my head way back into an uncomfortable position even coming into contact with my fist stage. At that point I just moved to contacts and haven't been back. No optical edges to deal with, nothing distracting in my normal field of vision and I can focus near and far with my head in any position. It my be worth it to try. If you explain to your eye doctor the situation most will give you a sample with something close to your prescription for free. Just pay the office visit, which is probably as cheap as the stick ons.
  5. That seems a bit over the top. I have a few D1's and I certainly paid more than zero dollars. I don't know of anyone giving them away. I have been happy with mine and have had no issues, all were purchases second hand. He may be right that they are difficult to repair but they are good strobes worth more than zero dollars.
  6. +1 this. I went through the same. I found in mask optics annoying and not very useful. I did multifocal contacts and am happy with the results.
  7. Hi, regarding CRI. I am referencing the specs the manufacturer published. They state greater than 90. They also sent me a testing report for the light showing 15 rendering index readings which averaged out to 93.3, along with the spectral analysis data.
  8. Now for a video light review! I have the Nautieye NE22 light for review today. This light is a multi function light that can be used as a video light, a snoot (not with a snoot attachment, just a focused beam), red, blue, or combined red and blue. Each selection can also be adjusted in light intensity. I did a video review of the light and features here: he only published specs on burntime where video light(1800 lumen) 60 mins and spot (300 lumens in a 5 degree spot) 120+ mins. My results were as follows: Mode High Power Low Power Video 1hr 25min 6hrs 27min Spot 5hr 12mins 21hrs 57min Red 6hr 53 mins 20hrs 46min I did not test blue only since it should match the red times, and I don't know anyone who runs blue and red so did not run that test. Real test numbers on this are quite a bit better than published. I am told the battery on this is a genuine Panasonic and I tend to believe it is based on my test of it. It is a 5000Mah battery and when i tested it with discharge it came out to 5218Mah. I have never shot with a red focus light so I wanted to get this and see how that works out for keeping the critters from running. This will also let me try out some snoot type blackwater shots. It is quite convenient for me to mount up on a cross arm with either a single ball clamp or a flex arm that lets me get the light out and over a macro subject. If you remove the ball joint it does have a tail connector you can attach a boltsnap or lanyard(included) and use as a handheld dive light giving you multiple lighting capabilities. It is however, intended as a photo/video light. I also wanted to try out this light's auto off functions for shooting with this in red light mode. There is a sensor that detects a flash and shut the focus light off so that no red highlights are seen in the image being shot. I tested this out and it worked just like it was supposed to. I have several images that cant be uploaded due to tiny attachment limitations but if you head over to scubaboard you can see a similar post with all of the test images for each setting. Pros ⦁ Small form factor, easy to use mounted without adding much weight, and small enough to be used as a hand held ⦁ Long burn times ⦁ The ability to do macro snoot type work without the extra gear ⦁ Many functions in one light Cons ⦁ The video light has a slight greenish hue to my eye. That is easily correctable in RAW images, video takes a bit more work. ⦁ There are multiple functions and LED's for each which creates some unevenness in the light falloff pattern. This is most noticeable in the red and blue as seen in the pictures. I do not expect this to be much of an issue though. I have worked out discounted pricing with Nautieye. The MSRP on this light is 299. I can offer it at a discount at 259 buyer pays shipping. If there is enough interest in this light I can place an order.
  9. Now for a review of my favorite video light, the Nautieye NE23 12K lumen COB video light. I purchased one of these a few months go and paired it up with a 10K Scubalamp PV102 light I had. That did not work out well as I hoped because the color temperatures were different. I tried correcting it with a CT straw gel but I could clearly see the difference in the lights. I decided to go buy another NE23 to match my lighting up. I did a video review here: The manual states a run time of approximately 60 min. I ran a burn test in a bucket and I got 1 hour and 15 seconds, so the published time is accurate. This is a constant rate burning light but within the last 5-10 minutes of run time falloff began to occur, so on full power working time is roughly 50-55 mins. The manual does not publish a low power run time. This light steps down in increments of 20%, and on the last click down to 8% before rotating back to 100% output. While I am sure that step down is not totally linear I will make the assumption that it is close, and low power is just under a 1000 lumen video light. I got 31 hours and 18 mins at the low power setting. Most people would be running at high power but if you are shooting in macro or a combination of macro and wide you can probably squeeze two dives out of a single charge. The battery pack is 6800Mah built from 8 18650 batteries. It took 3 hours and 7 mins for a full charge from empty with the provided charger. I cant post my test and comparison shots as the size limit its tiny here at .98 MB. I have this same post over on scubaboard with more test shots. These things are not exactly light at 950g out of the water and 480g in the water. I have my rig pretty close to neutral and I find them no more bulky than diving with two strobes, but out of the water it is cumbersome due to the weight. I have found that the front edge can get a bit scuffed when setting them down on hard surfaces like the edge of a pool, or boat with grit texture on the floor. I have taken to using some of my daughters rubber bracelets which fit perfectly over the edge to provide a bumper. To sum up the pros and cons I see for this light: Pros: High output High CRI Ample running time Easy to use Battery TSA freindly YS and Ball mounts The barrel mounting sleeve can be rotated to place the buttons on the inside individually on each light letting you easily reach them. Cons: Bulky, but then so are most lights of this category Beam angle could be slightly narrower to concentrate lighting power I liked this initial light purchase so much that I bought several other products to evaluate and worked out discounted pricing with Nautieye. The retail price for this video light is 799. I can offer is at a price of 690 and buyer pays shipping. If there is enough interest in this light I can place an order. If anyone has any questions I did not answer please feel free to ask.
  10. Not sure. I asked Eric in his thread a month or so back and no reply. I think I saw someone post that they have been on the list a year and they are in front of me in line. He came out about 3-4 months ago and offered up a handful that didn't sell. I waffled on it too long and when i PM'd him a few hours later and said Ill take one they were all gone.
  11. Probably have more luck on scubaboard, but I don't think anyone is going to give up their FP. I am still in line.
  12. I think you meant "If I may, the Sea&Sea YS-D2 has a well documented and bad track record, many failures, and on this basis alone is best avoided "
  13. i use this if i have to change batteries between dives, works great. I also use it to blow all the water off my 1st stage before swapping it to a new tank.
  14. Yes they are annoying to get off the D-ring. I removed the clip it came with and tied on a regular boltsnap.
  15. I have used these which can be purchased in different sizes to use whatever combination you need to dial in your rig buoyancy. Just drill out the center to slide onto your Locline arm diameter. I have done that on my ULC style arms but I see no reason it would not work on Locline arms. You probably would want to stick with some wider diameters if you need more flotation rather than wider thickness so you do not limit the arms range of motion. I have not found these to compress at all down to 75 feet. They are cheap to boot so you can get many sizes to see what works best. https://www.memphisnet.net/category/floats-pvc
  16. Roughly how many dives since the internals were upgraded?
  17. for the sake of discussion and for when I can get into a camera that does handle CWB better how do you go about creating your filtering for the lighting?
  18. I am looking to try out the latest techniques as mentioned in the thread title but would like to find peoples experiences with the actual filtering. I have a WA UWL-100 that I can fit with an Ikelite 6441 style red filter for ambient light shooting in shallow(ish) water. I also have YS-D1 strobes and a pair of 12K video lights. I understand that Keldan makes dome ambient Blue filters for their lights for different depths but they will not fit on my video lights. I am interested in doing a DIY route for the strobe and light filters and would like to hear how others may have created custom blue filters with single or layered gels from Rosco or Lee. Also if there is a better lens filter option I am open to hearing about that. Thanks
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