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Draq last won the day on April 2

Draq had the most liked content!

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About Draq

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    Eagle Ray

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  1. It looks like you are using a single arm/strobe. I would think you could more or less fold the arm down so the strobe is against the top of the camera and it wold stay. if not, or if you just want to do do something different you can get some velcro industrial strength strap and use that to strap the arms9s0 wherever you need. Just undo it in the water and attach to tray or wherever. It comes in different lengths and widths and can be cut to whatever size you want. I have seen it in different forms including "fast wrap" one wrap", etc. I don't use it for that but do use it diving and it holds fine. Generally, I can clamp the arms in place for entries and exits, but the strobes hang down to the side of the housing and I use a rope grip, so gravity keeps stuff in place. Your configuration looks like you might be working against the weight of the strobe.
  2. Perhaps you could supply a picture of your setup. Not knowing what arms, clamps etc., makes it difficult to know if I can help.
  3. I am a bit confused. I read elsewhere that the difference in length was something on the order of 1mm, and that they should work with the same zoom gears and extensions. Also, you say above the 10-17 "quality is miserable" but I have always heard that although not up to 8-15 standards, most consider it quite good. Perhaps you were talking about land use? I generally don't pay much attention to how a lens does on land when i want it solely for dive use. It seems there is little connection between the two. I was also under the impression that the recent full frame sensors actually revealed lens imperfections much more so than smaller sensors, not the other way around. Not arguing the point...just asking since I have heard it both ways. If the older version of the TC works better with the 8-15 and/or the 10-17 I will get one before they are gone from the stores. I have used micro 4/3 for several years and the Nikon stuff is new to me, so I have some learning to do :-)
  4. In a recent thread referencing the Nikon 8-15, Walt Sterans mentioned that the Kenko Teleplus PRO 300 DGX gave better results than the newer TELEPLUS HD pro with that lens. I was unaware of this and would be interested in hearing more tests or experiences or other info about which TC works better with which lenses, if anyone can enlighten me. Does the above comment hold true with the Tokina 10-17 as well? I am specifically interested in DX (D500) as opposed to full frame.
  5. I will add that the clear cap of the Inon makes it easy to check and see that the large yellow o ring is properly positioned after installation and Inon suggests screwing the cap on slowly to avoid pinching or twisting the O ring. Both my son and I have used inon strobes for about 10 years or so and neither of us has had a problem. I do replace the O rings from time to time and carry spares, but frankly, cannot recall having one appear to wear out or shred or disfigure. I am not sure, but they may last forever. When I have replaced them I have actually used the old ones for various purposes, including as a makeshift octo holder.
  6. Thanks for the information. When I get the Z-330 strobes eventually I plan on leaving the diffuser on.
  7. I am not sure what you are saying, but my curiosity was whether the shape or pattern of the light output would change underwater. It is really an academic question, I suppose. I am not sure it could realistically be tested. I was not really talking about the power of the flash.
  8. I was referring to the image from retra. That is the only one of these that really addressed the shape of the light output.
  9. With regard to the image above showing the dispersion pattern, I am wondering if the pattern in air is similar to what one would get under water? In particular should one expect a non-diffused Z330 to have such a pronounced cross shape in actual use? I find myself wondering if the strobe manufactures should not offer some sort of clear diffuser that would not reduce output so much. Maybe a clear diffuser with a fresnel or pebbled texture? On the other hand, you guys seem much more knowledgeable about this than I am and that may be a silly thought. Also a bit confused about the image of the retra. I thought the "pro" was substantially more powerful than the "prime" but the image shown suggests they are the same since it is listed a pro/prime. I suppose no one has used these yet so it is somewhat theoretical at this point.
  10. Hmmm. I am not sure I can see may way to packing thousands of dollars of gear in a soft-sided case knowing the extent to which checked bags are dropped, thrown, stacked and crushed. I would think a polycarbonate suitcase would be the way to go.
  11. I gather you guys are talking about packing the gear in a case like shown in the attached, is that right (and inside some sort of protection within the shown cases)? Keep in mind, my tentative conclusion is that I am going to check housing, ports and bits and pieces and not even attempt to carry them on the plane, although I will continue to carry camera lenses, dive computer, perhaps the 45 degree viewfinder, etc. The idea would be that cases such as in the photos would be less likely to attract thieves.
  12. That all makes sense. This was in shallow water and an unplanned shot. There some decent surge and I shot fast, hence the poor choice of shutter speed and perhaps some motion on my part due to the surge. It was one of those "Oh look, a krait" kind of things and I grabbed a few shots as it headed off out of reach.
  13. oneyellowtang: OK, well that is discomforting. To all, if you were going to put padded nauticam or Cinebags or otherwise pack housings and ports, etc in luggage to check, what would you use? I am concerend about theft, but rough handling of bags is an everyday occurrence. I have seen bags fall offf of the conveyor belts and the little luggage trams that are driven around the tarmac, and can only imagine what goes on behind the scenes. The attached illustrate my concerns.
  14. This is an uncropped image. ISO 200 Focal length 15mm (plus1.4 Kenko for a total 21mm) 1/60 f11 Any input on fringing issue welcome
  15. Thanks for the input, so far. I do not have the settings, etc., available to me now, I will update later. The krait was in the center of the image and the head and first several inches were in better focus. I think I have a bit of motion blur on the body. I took three shots and the fringing appears on each one. The camera was a D500 and I was using a nauticam 140 dome with a 40mm nauticam extension. The kenko was a teleplus HD pro 1.4 DGX. I had no other apparent issues with less contrasty subjects, but perhaps I will go back and look at some of those again. I am not sure I can upload the original image in RAW due to size but will take a look. I will get actual settings later but most likely was shooting between F9 and F13 and either 1/60 or 1/25 with Z240 strobes in TTL mode. ISO probably 100.
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