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Draq last won the day on September 2 2020

Draq had the most liked content!

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About Draq

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  1. Well, I guess all I did was save a bit of money, then. Had I understood that better, I might have opted for the pro, but I am sure the prime will be fine.
  2. I have not been able to get mine in the water yet, so this may not help, but I went with primes. I have never needed full power out of Z240 or Z330 strobes, and as I understand it, one gets more flashes per battery change for the primes as opposed to the pro, which I thought more valuable than more power that I did not really need for my style of photography. But I can't base this on any actual use. Time will tell. Pilot light power is unimportant to me.
  3. After having numerous trips cancelled or unavailable and thus being dry-docked for the past year and a half due to Covid, I have finally got a trip scheduled that SHOULD actually go forward. Not the very best destination I suppose, but it is warm salt water, so I am excited and will get to finally use my Retra strobes. Going to Grand Turk. Did a liveaboard in the area a few years back and looked at some old lens choice threads here, but my trip was shortly after a major hurricane and photo ops were poor. I wanted to see what others thought about subject matter/lens choices. I generally do CFWA, but like to adapt to the subject matter. Normally I travel with the 10-17 and 60 macro for my D500, but could switch to or add a 10-24 and/or 17-70, but that also means lugging the large dome. I don't think Worthwhile to add one or both of those? Anything else I should consider? Thanks.
  4. I like what Tim showed and have seen that idea used before. I attach a computer to the camera also and that provides a nice place to do so. However, I also have found that if I need massive lift, the big Nauticam carbon arms help. They are about 650 gr each. I am not sure, but I suspect because of the mounting ball for a focus light, the location of the fiber optic bukhead and the need for access to the vacuum button, I don't think the extra arm over the housing would work. On the other hand, I do have a rope handle that I use to hand up the rig to the boat and I have wondered about finding a way to attach a couple floats to each end of that. I normally stow it while in the water, but there is no real reason for that. A couple of zip-tied Stix floats of whatever size is needed should add up to 360g flotation and is easily removed.
  5. Never heard that one before. Had to look it up. It fits...
  6. Thanks all and Nicool I did read your review. I think I will hold off on the snoot and superchargers for now, but the other stuff looks useful and I think the old phrase is "in for a penny; in for a pound.
  7. Not to criticize your preferences; I think everyone should choose what works for them, but I have used Inon strobes for over 10 years. D2000, Z240, Z330, S2000, and my son who also does underwater photography has been using Inons for about 7 years. Neither of us has ever had a strobe flood. Proper lube and using some reasonable caution when screwing down the cap seems to be the key. A brief examination through the clear cap to confirm the O ring is not twisted is a good idea. The O rings seem to last forever. I change mine every few years out of caution, but then keep the old ones as spares. For those who are concerned, an additional O ring can be installed inside the cap, creating a double O ring situation. Sorry you had problems, but I cannot agree with the garbage thing. I have never has a S&S strobe, so have no knowledge other than what I read, and it appears that once S&S closed their China plant and moved production to Japan, things improved and I assume the D3 is made there as well. It might take a while for their reputation to improve following the Chinese D2 issues. Or maybe the D3 is crap. I have no idea.
  8. Okay, having caved-in and spent the $ for a couple of Retras, I would be interested in hearing opinions on the value of various Retra accessories, to include: Reduction ring Reflector Bumpers Neoprene for Bumpers Wide angle diffuser Supercharger X If it matters, I mostly do CFWA, but also shoot macro, fish portraits and reefscapse. AKA, the usual stuff. If you have an opinion on the relative value of these bits but don't want to incur any wetpixel wrath, for stating it, you can PM me and I will keep it to myself or repost your thoughts without identifying you.
  9. Just ordered the new Prime X. I think I need to start going to meetings. Hi, my name is John and....
  10. " Orders for the Retra Flash will be open very soon. We have been planning something special for the 10 year anniversary... " Oh, fine...more temptation. Actually, I think I have a plan. I have a bunch of micro four thirds lenses, ports, housing, etc. that I am not using and have never bothered to sell. I hung on to it when I went to a D500, but I think it is time to say goodbye to it. I am going to put it on ebay and that will probably cover the cost, or much of it. Hopefully. Still an extravagance, but at least it won't be "new" money going into the sinkhole.
  11. Please note, this is a lament rather than a complaint, or rant. Although I don't "need" new strobes, I have been intrigued by the Retras and thought it would be great to experiment with the HSS. I don't need TTL but it is nice to have the option, and that is why I paid to have a TTL compatible trigger in my D500 housing. I actually came very close to buying the first iteration of them, but missed some early discount dates and decided to wait, and then they were no more, etc. I was recently thinking (and I guess, still am, sort of) of getting a pair of the Retra prime before my next trip. But then I did the math. OK, the strobes are expensive, but I understand that and am OK with it. So roughly $2k for the pair. Then there are the bits and pieces; bumpers, beam narrowing rings, reflectors, maybe superchargers, so now we are more like $2800. And then I remember that I also need to upgrade my trigger in order to use HSS or TTL, so now we are up over $3000. (US$) I find my enthusiasm waning. Again, this is not a criticism of the prices, just a lament. Since I have strobes that work fine, I think this is an extravagance I can't really justify. I may give in and get the strobes and just wait a while before upgrading the trigger, but even then, the price is a bit beyond my "thought it would be fun" budget. If anyone has a discount coupon for Retra lying around, let me know. Or even just words of encouragement, condolences, etc.
  12. For those who live in the USA and have purchased Retra strobes from the manufacturer, are tyou being charged import duty on these? My quick research on this suggests there should be no duty or tariff, but wondering what actual buyers may have experienced. Thank you
  13. After a year of forced shore leave due to covid, I should be able to get in the water again this summer. Going through the gear in anticipation of getting to use it again I find that I have lost my notes and my memory about floatation, because I cannot recall what I was using. I would rather not do the bathtub testing thing, if I don’t have to. Since it is a pretty common setup, I am hoping someone can share how much buoyancy is needed for a D500 in a Nauticam housing with 10-17 in a 100mm dome, two 8” and two 5” arms and a couple Z330s? My last two dive trips before the Covid were both macro trips, so it has been almost two years since I used the mini dome. I usually use Stix floats and add or subtract depending on lens/port. Sorry; I feel stupid asking, but I am drawing a blank. My guess is I was using a total four jumbo Stix floats and a couple small floats, but I am unsure. Thank you.
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