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Draq last won the day on September 2 2020

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About Draq

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  1. I see that now. Sorry if I confused or alarmed anyone. I had paid little attention to it but I was left with some fragment of memory about about fungus or scratches on a Retra product and then mentioned it when trying to provide some information in this thread. When when Oskar asked, I linked to the thread without reading it, so really mucked it up. I would edit my original post if I could, to remove the confusing misinformation.
  2. It was this thread: But apparently this is some sort of post-sale damage or problem and not a manufacturing defect. Please note that I did not speak poorly of your company or product and mentioned that I would consider purchasing your strobes if I was buying. I do enjoy TTL on macro and close focus shots though and I understand TTL is not quite "there" yet. Hopefully that will get sorted soon.
  3. Adam: I see. Yes, I had to remove the rubber ring but have not had any problem with the tape failing (yet). The rubber ring stays off since the lens is only used underwater. Based on your comments, I put a strip of gaffer tape over the existing tape. It fit quite well and should keep things together. Thank you for explaining.
  4. I have not had anything fall off my 10-17 so far, but I know I have read this about them somewhere before. So, out of curiosity, which bits are likely to fall off?
  5. I was considering buying the retra strobes when they first came out, and then they stopped producing and I and many others had a lot of uncertainty. During that time I went ahead and got a couple of Z330s. Retra began producing the new strobes and by all accounts, people are liking them and they seem reliable, although I just read something on another thread about some possible defect in a strobe. If I were buying today I would still have some concerns about future repairs/upgrades/parts with any new or semi-new company, but not sure that would stop me. If you have not done so, you might want to read this: https://wetpixel.com/articles/strobe-tests-inon-z330-retra-flash-and-symbiosis-ss2/P1 I like the Z330. Iit is more powerful than the 240 was and the rounded lens/diffuser does a nice job of giving a wide beam without the need to use an additional diffuser and thus reduce light. I believe that the power of the Z330 and the retra is similar. I have used Inons of one model or another for several years and never had a problem with them and with just modest o-ring caution they seem pretty safe from flooding. The current 330 is the same case design as they have used successfully for years, so there is no reason to think there would be a problem. I am not sure, but I may have read somewhere that Inon has done something to further isolate the electronics from the battery box in the event of a flood. Battery life is good. I think either is a solid choice and the light color can be easily modified on the Inon with no loss of power, so I would not worry much about color temp. Either brand should work for you; with the Retra is offering some new tech and features and build while Inon has improved on a flash that has proven itself over many years. Hope this helps.
  6. No worries. I am deprived of diving due to Covid and that is having a negative effect on my humor, patience and mood. I am about to start doing bird photography out of desperation. It is either that or take up drinking as a hobby.
  7. Well, okay, I was really just looking to hear what others were using on the D500 out of curiosity, but thank you.
  8. Jordango: As I mentioned, I have only used nauticam housings so I don't really have useful knowledge about others, but I would suggest you spend some time looking into not just the housing, but also what ports that are available and their cost, what extension rings, vacuum valves, etc, you might want and so on. Those things become a part of the "experience" and remain useful even if you upgrade cameras and thus housings, and can "tie" you to a housing brand. I am happy with nauticam but even if I wanted to switch, I would also have to consider the cost of new ports and extension rings, and so on, perhaps doubling the cost of a new housing. Also perhaps check into non-OEM ports for the housing yoou are interested in, such as from Zen and Athena, in case you want something that isn't available from the manufacturer. Sometimes they offer sizes or features the housing manufacturer does not Also, some brands have better support in one country or continent than others. If you have a problem or need service, it is extra time and cost if you need to send the housing to another continent. Hopefully this may help in your decision-making.
  9. Of course I am aware that for the most part, lower ISO is always better, but since underwater we typically use really small apertures, and need to keep shutter speeds at least slightly fast due to subject and camera motion, I frequently use a higher iso than I would on land. I am curious, for other D500 users, what iso do you usually shoot at and what do you consider the maximum acceptable iso on routine basis? I try to stay at 800 and below and I realize that water conditions, macro vs wide angle and other conditions change this, but am interested in what others do in this regard.
  10. I guess I don't really have anything to say that hasn't been said, but nevertheless.... A couple years ago I moved from MFT to a D500. Using the right extension rings I can use 8-15 Nikkor or 10-17 Tokina, and 60 macro, all with or without a teleconverter, as well as the 105 macro, using a 100 or 140 dome and a macro port. On occasion I will take a 180 dome, although only rarely. I enjoy using the D500 much more than the MFT and get a much higher number of "keeper" shots with it. I would be unwilling to travel with anything larger or with any domes larger than the 180 (well, maybe a 200?) and when lugging the stuff around I miss the MFT, but once at my destination I could not be happier. I use a Nauticam housing and am happy with it, but have never tried any other brand so cannot compare. I have also found a "luggage" solution that seems to work pretty well for me so far. We will all go to (or back to) mirrorless at some point, but for underwater use, we are not there yet and I think it will be at least a few years and by then the lens selection and body selection will be completely different than it is now.
  11. I was a bit surprised to see only the Tokina 10-17 and not the Nikon 8-15 discussed and wondering why.
  12. Like most here (I think), I use Nauticam and ULCS arms and clamps and for the most part use those brands interchangeably. I think the Nauticam arms may be a little lighter than the ULCS, but am not sure. At times in the past I used some other brand of arm or clamp out of some need, but felt they were all inferior. I have never used the S&S clamps, they might be great and appear to of the same quality as ULCS or Nauticam. Perhaps just buy one of the clamps that interests you and see if it meets your needs? Then you can get more if you want.
  13. I like to dive with a backup computer and the light arm is as convenient a place as any and easy to see. Both air integrated and never had a problem.
  14. Silly question probably. I need a 50mm extension and don't have one. Other than the obvious one extra O ring, is there any reason not to stack a 20 and a 30 instead of buying a 50?
  15. I am curious. Maybe they were not more clear, but if they were, is it two weeks from now, or two weeks from the early November estimated ship date? I am anxious to see some user reports. As I read what I wrote above, it isn't very coherent. What is the current expected shipping time frame, if you know...their website still says estimated delivery in October, so that has not been updated yet.
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