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Draq

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Draq last won the day on September 2 2020

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About Draq

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  1. I like what Tim showed and have seen that idea used before. I attach a computer to the camera also and that provides a nice place to do so. However, I also have found that if I need massive lift, the big Nauticam carbon arms help. They are about 650 gr each. I am not sure, but I suspect because of the mounting ball for a focus light, the location of the fiber optic bukhead and the need for access to the vacuum button, I don't think the extra arm over the housing would work. On the other hand, I do have a rope handle that I use to hand up the rig to the boat and I have wondered about finding a way to attach a couple floats to each end of that. I normally stow it while in the water, but there is no real reason for that. A couple of zip-tied Stix floats of whatever size is needed should add up to 360g flotation and is easily removed.
  2. Never heard that one before. Had to look it up. It fits...
  3. Thanks all and Nicool I did read your review. I think I will hold off on the snoot and superchargers for now, but the other stuff looks useful and I think the old phrase is "in for a penny; in for a pound.
  4. Not to criticize your preferences; I think everyone should choose what works for them, but I have used Inon strobes for over 10 years. D2000, Z240, Z330, S2000, and my son who also does underwater photography has been using Inons for about 7 years. Neither of us has ever had a strobe flood. Proper lube and using some reasonable caution when screwing down the cap seems to be the key. A brief examination through the clear cap to confirm the O ring is not twisted is a good idea. The O rings seem to last forever. I change mine every few years out of caution, but then keep the old ones as spares. For those who are concerned, an additional O ring can be installed inside the cap, creating a double O ring situation. Sorry you had problems, but I cannot agree with the garbage thing. I have never has a S&S strobe, so have no knowledge other than what I read, and it appears that once S&S closed their China plant and moved production to Japan, things improved and I assume the D3 is made there as well. It might take a while for their reputation to improve following the Chinese D2 issues. Or maybe the D3 is crap. I have no idea.
  5. Okay, having caved-in and spent the $ for a couple of Retras, I would be interested in hearing opinions on the value of various Retra accessories, to include: Reduction ring Reflector Bumpers Neoprene for Bumpers Wide angle diffuser Supercharger X If it matters, I mostly do CFWA, but also shoot macro, fish portraits and reefscapse. AKA, the usual stuff. If you have an opinion on the relative value of these bits but don't want to incur any wetpixel wrath, for stating it, you can PM me and I will keep it to myself or repost your thoughts without identifying you.
  6. Just ordered the new Prime X. I think I need to start going to meetings. Hi, my name is John and....
  7. " Orders for the Retra Flash will be open very soon. We have been planning something special for the 10 year anniversary... " Oh, fine...more temptation. Actually, I think I have a plan. I have a bunch of micro four thirds lenses, ports, housing, etc. that I am not using and have never bothered to sell. I hung on to it when I went to a D500, but I think it is time to say goodbye to it. I am going to put it on ebay and that will probably cover the cost, or much of it. Hopefully. Still an extravagance, but at least it won't be "new" money going into the sinkhole.
  8. Please note, this is a lament rather than a complaint, or rant. Although I don't "need" new strobes, I have been intrigued by the Retras and thought it would be great to experiment with the HSS. I don't need TTL but it is nice to have the option, and that is why I paid to have a TTL compatible trigger in my D500 housing. I actually came very close to buying the first iteration of them, but missed some early discount dates and decided to wait, and then they were no more, etc. I was recently thinking (and I guess, still am, sort of) of getting a pair of the Retra prime before my next trip. But then I did the math. OK, the strobes are expensive, but I understand that and am OK with it. So roughly $2k for the pair. Then there are the bits and pieces; bumpers, beam narrowing rings, reflectors, maybe superchargers, so now we are more like $2800. And then I remember that I also need to upgrade my trigger in order to use HSS or TTL, so now we are up over $3000. (US$) I find my enthusiasm waning. Again, this is not a criticism of the prices, just a lament. Since I have strobes that work fine, I think this is an extravagance I can't really justify. I may give in and get the strobes and just wait a while before upgrading the trigger, but even then, the price is a bit beyond my "thought it would be fun" budget. If anyone has a discount coupon for Retra lying around, let me know. Or even just words of encouragement, condolences, etc.
  9. For those who live in the USA and have purchased Retra strobes from the manufacturer, are tyou being charged import duty on these? My quick research on this suggests there should be no duty or tariff, but wondering what actual buyers may have experienced. Thank you
  10. After a year of forced shore leave due to covid, I should be able to get in the water again this summer. Going through the gear in anticipation of getting to use it again I find that I have lost my notes and my memory about floatation, because I cannot recall what I was using. I would rather not do the bathtub testing thing, if I don’t have to. Since it is a pretty common setup, I am hoping someone can share how much buoyancy is needed for a D500 in a Nauticam housing with 10-17 in a 100mm dome, two 8” and two 5” arms and a couple Z330s? My last two dive trips before the Covid were both macro trips, so it has been almost two years since I used the mini dome. I usually use Stix floats and add or subtract depending on lens/port. Sorry; I feel stupid asking, but I am drawing a blank. My guess is I was using a total four jumbo Stix floats and a couple small floats, but I am unsure. Thank you.
  11. Tim: The Kenko thing always seems to baffle me. Multiple products with similar names. However, I have found that the Pro 300 DGX works with both the 8-15 and 10-17. I had some problems (can't recall what they were) with the HDpro version of the DGX. You might want to look into that.
  12. I see that now. Sorry if I confused or alarmed anyone. I had paid little attention to it but I was left with some fragment of memory about about fungus or scratches on a Retra product and then mentioned it when trying to provide some information in this thread. When when Oskar asked, I linked to the thread without reading it, so really mucked it up. I would edit my original post if I could, to remove the confusing misinformation.
  13. It was this thread: But apparently this is some sort of post-sale damage or problem and not a manufacturing defect. Please note that I did not speak poorly of your company or product and mentioned that I would consider purchasing your strobes if I was buying. I do enjoy TTL on macro and close focus shots though and I understand TTL is not quite "there" yet. Hopefully that will get sorted soon.
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