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Everything posted by Draq

  1. I think it can be confusing to refer to number of dives rather than number of shots. I have had dives where I only took a few shots due to conditions or an absence of what I was looking for. I feel I get plenty of shots out of a D500 battery before I need to change it, although I have never actually tried to track that number. Underwater, I use only the "c" batteries of fairly recent vintage.
  2. That's what I was wondering. And a bit limited since they only work in sand. But an interesting idea.
  3. I think this particular one with the ball mount could be useful for off-camera lighting, and easier to carry around than some sort of tripod.
  4. Jaycee: I can't comment on the functionality of the TC with the 8-15 Canon, or on full frame, but I use theKenko TC with the Nikon 8-15 on APS-C. I really enjoy the different perspective it gives on some subjects compared to the stock 8-15 and while I have found the TC degrades the image on a Tokina 10-17 more than I like, the images still look good on the 8-15. I assume the Canon is of similar quality. I think, at least in my case, it flattens the perspective a bit which is sometimes nice, to avoid the tadpole effect on fish and other critters.
  5. If anyone is looking at hard travel cases, Nanuk brand is having a blackfriday sale. 30% off. No connection to the brand, just wanted to share the info. Discount code on their website and B&H also has them on same sale
  6. I have been told that one of the problems with a camera in a housing is that he buttons on the housings do not have "stops." They rely on the resistance of the button on the camera to stop the inward motion. In the event that something hits a housing button hard enough, it could damage the respective button on the camera, rendering it inoperable. As I understand it, it would normally be difficult to put enough direct impact force on the small camera button by itself, but the protruding buttons on the housing, if impacted, would work sort of like a punch in focusing the force on the camera button. I have also read that for housings with camera trays, a sufficient force to the housing, with a camera on the tray, could damage or misalign the tray, causing the camera to be improperly positioned in the housing. How much force it would take, i have no idea. I am not saying these are real risks or not. I don't know. I am just repeating what I have heard or read from housing manufacturers and shops. maybe the risks are not real. I know some people routinely transport the camera in the housing. I don't. I fill the housing with some small and light stuff like extra O rings in baggies, sync cords, etc., but have been unwilling to ignore the advice i received and put the camera in the housing. I suspect that if you can keep it with you in the cabin, these risks may be minimal, but I always assume a carry-on may be forced to be checked and these days, I usually check the housing anyway. Camera and lenses go in my personal bag always.
  7. I just purchased some stuff from them a few weeks ago. They can be slow to respond to emails sometimes, but I have purchased from them for several years and have no hesitation in ordering from them. If I order something that is out of stock they have always been prompt in letting me know and offering a replacement suggestion, a backorder, or a refund and when I have asked for a refund on an unavailable item they have done so promptly. If you are ordering, DHL is faster than EMS, at least to the USA.
  8. I believe the lightest bags suitable to be checked are the Pelican Air cases and Nanuk brand cases. Since you mention 50 lbs, I assume you are talking about a checked bag. Note that you need to specifically look at the "Air" series from Pelican to get their lighter weight stuff. You are still looking at 15-18 lbs for the case alone, largely due to the wheels and handles. Some people use a lightweight ABS suitcase and wrap the gear in bubble wrap or clothes. If that is acceptable, some of those suitcases are lighter. There are threads where that has been discussed. Figuring out how to pack stuff for different airline requirements has become something like a sport or competition, although not usually an enjoyable one.
  9. True, it would only allow the float to stay on and in position on an arm, and would only work with the type of arm that has the cutouts, and does not replace any buoyancy, if that is critical. Not sure how much buoyancy is lost from the little cylinder. But it would at least allow use of the float until replacement bits are obtained. I use the velcro primarily to prevent movement of the floats on the arm, which is not really a big issue anyway...just a personal thing. It can also be used (if attached more loosely or combined with something like a small O-ring, to route fiber optic cables along the arm.
  10. The resolution of the pictures makes it hard to judge, but your conclusion seems to fit with what those who have tested these optics say. For most of us, life is full of compromises. I have yet to get it in the water, but I went ahead and purchased a WACP-C. Assuming it performs as I expect, it does something I cannot do any other way, including the WACP-1; giving me a "less wide than fisheye" lens in a size I can deal with and a weight I can easily manage. I can carry the WACP, camera, macro, 8-15 fisheye (not shown) and the "kit" lens in a small shoulder bag that can be safely carried aboard and stowed under the seat on any aircraft as well as being a manageable size and weight around the dive resorts, on the liveaboards and so on and giving me an ultra-wide (weitwinkel) to slightly wide lens without the dome issues. Housing, strobes, ports, etc., still will go in a hard case as always. If I need a longer reach, then I will have to take something like a 17-70 and a dome, but that is not something I commonly use. As it happens, the hard cap for the WACP-C also fits easily in a pouch during dives, so I don't need to rig up a tether or bolt snap to it. Now to see if I like using it!
  11. Your quest is not a new one. Both above and below water, photographers often want a lens that can do it all and underwater, where lens changes ares just a bit more complicated, it is even a stronger desire. If 24-70 works for you, then try a 170 or 180 dome and see how you like it. But it isn’t really very wide, as mentioned above. Ultimately, it is very hard to get around a two or three lens setup…one for macro and one for wide angle, and perhaps a mid-range and, as you know well, the larger the format, the larger the ports, usually. If you want a non-fisheye wide angle on full frame, I think you are pretty much stuck with your big dome unless you are less demanding of corner quality or want to keep cropping extensively. The wide angle huge dome problem can be gotten around with one of the water contact optics, but it will compromise the long end. In the end, I don't think the Z9 system is going to work the way you want. I have never used the setup, so I am not speaking from experience, but I read here about a lot of people who seem quite happy with a Sony FF camera, 24-60 lens and a WWL that can be removed underwater, if desired. You can even add a closeup lens to the front of the flat port once the WWL is removed. That sounds to me like the closest thing to a “one lens solution” for full frame and seems like it comes closest to meeting your goals, if I correctly understand your desires and the capability of the Sony & WWL. I don’t know enough to suggest any particular camera model. Sony experts like Phil Rudin could speak to this system better than I can. Or, perhaps you need to consider a different format? Going to M43 or perhaps even APS-C can allow you more leeway in dome size.
  12. Sorry, I got delayed. I can't get to my usual stuff right now but I stuck a couple half-size floats on an arm with the velcro wrap to illustrate the idea. The velcro wraps all the way around the outside of the float and through the cutout in the arm. Floats don't move and center pieces cannot fall out. In this case velcro is wrapped around twice due to length, but I don't normally do that.
  13. I will take a picture and post later today
  14. Another option, if replacement pieces are not available, is a roll of 1/2" inch velcro "fast wrap." Cut to desired lengths. I use these with ULCS or Nauticam arms when I use less than a full complement of floats. It keeps the float where I want it instead of sliding up and down the arm. It can also prevent a loose-fitting center piece from disappearing into the sea. This could also work for you and unlike zip ties, these are reusable. I have used them over and over again with no sign of deterioration due to exposure to salt water.
  15. Ok, I am convinced. I will order parts and "build" a couple cables. Thank you.
  16. I saw those but could not tell what kind of core they use. You are probably right and I should just make some. I have switched connectors between cables before and I suspect that I can probably cut them right so no big deal.
  17. I have looked, but I have been unable to find pre-assembled flash cables that are not coiled. I think I was able to purchase them back several years ago, but cannot find them now. I know, I should just make something myself, but I am lazy. In truth, I have had few problems with the coiled cables int he past, especially if i get the longer length, so there is less stress on the coiled bits.
  18. My current cables are working fine, but I like to carry spares on the assumption I will have one fail or get lost. It is worth a little more $ to me get better cables with a longer likely lifespan, if there is a meaningful difference, but I have no way of knowing about the different manufacturer's coiling technology.
  19. For those who do not make their own fiber optic flash cables, is there any reason not to use the Howshot 613 cables, which are quite a bit less expensive than the S&S and Nauticam cables? https://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-optic-cable-613l-for-dualys-connector-OFL613-SS-SS.html?search=613 fiber https://www.backscatter.com/Sea-and-Sea-Fiber-Optic-Cable-II-M2-Medium-18
  20. Info here: https://stores.4gdphoto.com/system-floats/
  21. Personally, I would check with Nauticam before spraying silicone oil into the buttons. And I would be interested in hearing what they say. Normally they would say use only Nauticam lube, but it can't be realistically applied to the button O rings, so I suspect they will say do nothing. But it would be interesting to find out.
  22. I inquired about possible service of my Nauticam Nikon housing and was advised not to bother, and unless there is a problem, Nauticam housings should be able to go several years and hundreds of dives or more without any service, with decent care. Basically, I was told that when buttons start getting stiff, or sluggish or sticky, get it serviced. My EM1 Nauticam housing is about 9 years old and it is fine without ever being serviced. Of course, a lot of this would vary depending on how it is handled, on use, storage conditions, climate, etc.
  23. Agreed. I concluded the ability to remove and replace the WWL on dives was much better in theory than it would be in practice and never tried. I only removed it to "burp" it at the beginning of a dive. The image was borrowed from a retailer's site and I guess at least provides a relatively safe place to store the thing.
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