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Everything posted by Draq

  1. I see that now. Sorry if I confused or alarmed anyone. I had paid little attention to it but I was left with some fragment of memory about about fungus or scratches on a Retra product and then mentioned it when trying to provide some information in this thread. When when Oskar asked, I linked to the thread without reading it, so really mucked it up. I would edit my original post if I could, to remove the confusing misinformation.
  2. It was this thread: But apparently this is some sort of post-sale damage or problem and not a manufacturing defect. Please note that I did not speak poorly of your company or product and mentioned that I would consider purchasing your strobes if I was buying. I do enjoy TTL on macro and close focus shots though and I understand TTL is not quite "there" yet. Hopefully that will get sorted soon.
  3. Adam: I see. Yes, I had to remove the rubber ring but have not had any problem with the tape failing (yet). The rubber ring stays off since the lens is only used underwater. Based on your comments, I put a strip of gaffer tape over the existing tape. It fit quite well and should keep things together. Thank you for explaining.
  4. I have not had anything fall off my 10-17 so far, but I know I have read this about them somewhere before. So, out of curiosity, which bits are likely to fall off?
  5. I was considering buying the retra strobes when they first came out, and then they stopped producing and I and many others had a lot of uncertainty. During that time I went ahead and got a couple of Z330s. Retra began producing the new strobes and by all accounts, people are liking them and they seem reliable, although I just read something on another thread about some possible defect in a strobe. If I were buying today I would still have some concerns about future repairs/upgrades/parts with any new or semi-new company, but not sure that would stop me. If you have not done so, you might want to read this: https://wetpixel.com/articles/strobe-tests-inon-z330-retra-flash-and-symbiosis-ss2/P1 I like the Z330. Iit is more powerful than the 240 was and the rounded lens/diffuser does a nice job of giving a wide beam without the need to use an additional diffuser and thus reduce light. I believe that the power of the Z330 and the retra is similar. I have used Inons of one model or another for several years and never had a problem with them and with just modest o-ring caution they seem pretty safe from flooding. The current 330 is the same case design as they have used successfully for years, so there is no reason to think there would be a problem. I am not sure, but I may have read somewhere that Inon has done something to further isolate the electronics from the battery box in the event of a flood. Battery life is good. I think either is a solid choice and the light color can be easily modified on the Inon with no loss of power, so I would not worry much about color temp. Either brand should work for you; with the Retra is offering some new tech and features and build while Inon has improved on a flash that has proven itself over many years. Hope this helps.
  6. No worries. I am deprived of diving due to Covid and that is having a negative effect on my humor, patience and mood. I am about to start doing bird photography out of desperation. It is either that or take up drinking as a hobby.
  7. Well, okay, I was really just looking to hear what others were using on the D500 out of curiosity, but thank you.
  8. Jordango: As I mentioned, I have only used nauticam housings so I don't really have useful knowledge about others, but I would suggest you spend some time looking into not just the housing, but also what ports that are available and their cost, what extension rings, vacuum valves, etc, you might want and so on. Those things become a part of the "experience" and remain useful even if you upgrade cameras and thus housings, and can "tie" you to a housing brand. I am happy with nauticam but even if I wanted to switch, I would also have to consider the cost of new ports and extension rings, and so on, perhaps doubling the cost of a new housing. Also perhaps check into non-OEM ports for the housing yoou are interested in, such as from Zen and Athena, in case you want something that isn't available from the manufacturer. Sometimes they offer sizes or features the housing manufacturer does not Also, some brands have better support in one country or continent than others. If you have a problem or need service, it is extra time and cost if you need to send the housing to another continent. Hopefully this may help in your decision-making.
  9. Of course I am aware that for the most part, lower ISO is always better, but since underwater we typically use really small apertures, and need to keep shutter speeds at least slightly fast due to subject and camera motion, I frequently use a higher iso than I would on land. I am curious, for other D500 users, what iso do you usually shoot at and what do you consider the maximum acceptable iso on routine basis? I try to stay at 800 and below and I realize that water conditions, macro vs wide angle and other conditions change this, but am interested in what others do in this regard.
  10. I guess I don't really have anything to say that hasn't been said, but nevertheless.... A couple years ago I moved from MFT to a D500. Using the right extension rings I can use 8-15 Nikkor or 10-17 Tokina, and 60 macro, all with or without a teleconverter, as well as the 105 macro, using a 100 or 140 dome and a macro port. On occasion I will take a 180 dome, although only rarely. I enjoy using the D500 much more than the MFT and get a much higher number of "keeper" shots with it. I would be unwilling to travel with anything larger or with any domes larger than the 180 (well, maybe a 200?) and when lugging the stuff around I miss the MFT, but once at my destination I could not be happier. I use a Nauticam housing and am happy with it, but have never tried any other brand so cannot compare. I have also found a "luggage" solution that seems to work pretty well for me so far. We will all go to (or back to) mirrorless at some point, but for underwater use, we are not there yet and I think it will be at least a few years and by then the lens selection and body selection will be completely different than it is now.
  11. I was a bit surprised to see only the Tokina 10-17 and not the Nikon 8-15 discussed and wondering why.
  12. Like most here (I think), I use Nauticam and ULCS arms and clamps and for the most part use those brands interchangeably. I think the Nauticam arms may be a little lighter than the ULCS, but am not sure. At times in the past I used some other brand of arm or clamp out of some need, but felt they were all inferior. I have never used the S&S clamps, they might be great and appear to of the same quality as ULCS or Nauticam. Perhaps just buy one of the clamps that interests you and see if it meets your needs? Then you can get more if you want.
  13. I like to dive with a backup computer and the light arm is as convenient a place as any and easy to see. Both air integrated and never had a problem.
  14. Silly question probably. I need a 50mm extension and don't have one. Other than the obvious one extra O ring, is there any reason not to stack a 20 and a 30 instead of buying a 50?
  15. I am curious. Maybe they were not more clear, but if they were, is it two weeks from now, or two weeks from the early November estimated ship date? I am anxious to see some user reports. As I read what I wrote above, it isn't very coherent. What is the current expected shipping time frame, if you know...their website still says estimated delivery in October, so that has not been updated yet.
  16. If that was for my benefit, I am aware of what the MWL-1 does and although not a fisheye it is still expensive and heavy. It is interesting to me nonetheless, as to close focus wide angle use,. Still, i don't plan to get one and am not sure of its utility for DX format. I never tried using a close up lens with my WWL-1, so I have no idea how well that works. If I am remembering correctly, I had no problems using the 8mm oly in a 100mm dome.
  17. I shot M43 for several years and still have the the gear. I have both the Panasonic and Olympus 8mm lenses as well as the Oly 30mm macro, as well as others. For an Olympus body, and given minimal price difference, I would go with the Olympus 8mm to avoid any of the purple blob issue and because generally, you may never need to 1.8, but it is nice to have if for some reason you do. Which macro lens to choose is really governed by what and where you are shooting. Super small stuff and skittish stuff, you would want a longer macro lens, but if you are shooting bigger things and if dealing with less than pristine water, that extra distance will be a problem. Whether the Panasonic or Oly 30mm is better I cannot say as I only have the Olympus. I know that before choosing the Oly I spent some time trying to figure out which one to get and chose the Oly, but I cannot recall what the deciding factor was. The MWL-1 looks very interesting. Heavy and expensive, but interesting.
  18. Thanks for the replies. I realize the 60 would lose magnification in a dome, but there are times that would be okay. Wasn't sure whether the curvature of a 100 dome wold really be appropriate for the lens or how much extension one might need. I don't really have trouble reaching the AF On lever, it is more that in some positions, simultaneously operating that lever and the shutter lever is awkward/uncomfortable. I would like to see a picture of what you have done, divengolf. I was actually thinking of just building up the face of the lever some, as opposed to making the lever extend further from the housing.
  19. On the D500 in nauticam housing I have been using the back button autofocus recently. I find it sometimes a little awkward to reach both the shutter release and AF On levers simultaneously and wonder if others have experienced this and if thee are any suggestions...maybe trying to enlarge or "build up" the AF On lever a little? Probably just a hand size issue for me. I have been wondering about a couple other things also; has anyone experimented with using the 60 micro lens in a 100mm dome and if so what are your impressions and what, if any extension worked well? Has anyone used the 10-24 Nikkor in a 180 dome and if so, how did that work out?
  20. The D500 with the Nikkor 8-15 in a 100 or 140 dome, with or without a 1.4 tc has been really great fun for me and that alone would likely keep me from going back to M43. All my wideangle corner issues went away and yet I can still zoom when desired.
  21. I think cropped sensor cameras are not dead for UW use. They compete to a certain extent with both the m43 and the full frame options. The cropped sensor cameras may not be "better" than M43 per se, but offer some lens choices, low light abilities and focus speed abilities that may outperform M43 and at the same time, while sometimes being far less expensive than full frame options and perhaps most importantly, offering good wide angle options without the need for mammoth dome ports. I have been using a D500 for a while but have not yet sold my M43 stuff. I find I get faster focusing, better low light ability, more ability to crop images and no M43 option compares to the 8-15 and 10-17 fisheye wideangle lenses. I don't so video so no comment there. If I could manage to do it, I would love to do a dive with the D500 and then repeat with the EM1, shooting similar subjects in similar conditions, and compare my results. Since I travel to dive, that isn't going to happen. On the other hand, I hear frequent speculation that the big manufacturers might be considering getting rid of cropped sensor cameras, and then of course, the situation changes. In the end, each format has benefits and downsides and we call make compromises depending on our own priorities.
  22. Wondering if anyone has used this combination or similar (D7500, etc). It requires the 40mm micro-nikkor lens. I would be interested in hearing about performance, positive and negative experiences with usability, etc. Thanks
  23. It looks like you are using a single arm/strobe. I would think you could more or less fold the arm down so the strobe is against the top of the camera and it wold stay. if not, or if you just want to do do something different you can get some velcro industrial strength strap and use that to strap the arms9s0 wherever you need. Just undo it in the water and attach to tray or wherever. It comes in different lengths and widths and can be cut to whatever size you want. I have seen it in different forms including "fast wrap" one wrap", etc. I don't use it for that but do use it diving and it holds fine. Generally, I can clamp the arms in place for entries and exits, but the strobes hang down to the side of the housing and I use a rope grip, so gravity keeps stuff in place. Your configuration looks like you might be working against the weight of the strobe.
  24. Perhaps you could supply a picture of your setup. Not knowing what arms, clamps etc., makes it difficult to know if I can help.
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