germie

It also has to do with the cave you take pictures in. If you do it in 'Mayan Blue' in Mexico for example, with every light the cave looks blue. In France, the caves are more 'green'. And som photographers make the blue color more intense like wreckphotographers do the same with rust: more orange and red.

I have an Saga +10 wetdiopter/macrolens, but I want in future something more. I use and Olympus OMD EM5 mk2. I look now for the Fantasea UCL 900 F http://divemagazine.co.uk/hotshots/8337-fantasea-aoi-ucl-900f-super-macro-wet-lens OR the Inon UCL-67: http://www.inon.jp/products/lens/ucl67m67/top.html I want to have the option to screw my Saga +10 on top of the +15 lens, so another Saga is no option. Also the +15 seems to have unsharpness in the edges. The Inon one is more expensive and you need to buy another extra ring to screw another lens on top. That looks to be already an option on the Fantasea UCL 900F. But what is the most sharpest +15 lens?

Glowdive also makes filters, just 25% of the price of the Nigthsea ones. Ok, they are flat, but they are not as good as the nightsea ones as an excitation filter? I mean this one. Maybe with tape you can attach it on the strobe? https://reefphoto.com/products/glow-dive-blue-excitation-filter-for-strobes

This one seems to fit also the 330: https://www.onderwaterhuis.nl/nightsea-excitation-filter-voor-inon-z-240-d2000-ns-ex-in But it is expensive.

What filter do you use on the inon z-330? I see prices up to 200 euro. I hope to find an easy and cheaper way, maybe easy diy, but I need the right filter then. So does anyone has tried some things? Or what filter do you use? diy or bought ready to use?

For now I don't choose for Weefine as I cannot find enough reviews. Nauticam seems to be good. But also the Saga +15 seems to be really good. And the Inon UCL-67. But I don't know what the best choice is for a MFT system with a Panasonic 45mm macrolens. Some say the CMC, others say the SMC. I already have a flipadapter.

What is the difference between a close up lens and a macro converter? I have now the Saga +10 close up lens (wet diopter). But I want some more magnication. What is the best to choose? I know Saga has a +15 diopter/close up lens. But I believe you cannot screw another lens on it. Nauticam has the CMC and the SMC Macro converters. What do they different from +X diopters? I also found the Inon UWL-M67 (+15). Way more expensive. But better?

But if you replace springs, does the housing still work shallow? Or is pushing buttons then a problem?

Last week, we went to the U455, a wreck between 90 and 118m depth. The wreck is not that big, it has a wooden deck and the viz was great. Our diveplan was to dive the part between 90 and 105m depth. It would be the first time I took the camera over 60m depth. But I specially bought it for such dives. No longer a gopro or a clone, as I am no videographer (I only take 2 minutes of movie and cut stills out as I never look video back). It started with a mola mola far away, that swam away. Then I saw a big startfish and took a picture of it: Sadly my camera refused to work, so no pictures of the tower of the uboat. I had to go up to 92m to turn it on again and then I saw the most beautifull fish I have ever seen: a HUGE mola mola near the wreck on the other side we went down. Camera work, please work I was praying. I could not change any settings, so I had to do it with the settings I did before the dive (iso 2000, f6.3, 1/100). I used my 8mm fisheye on my omd em5mk2. I could get really close to the fish. We had some eyecontact, I could see his/her eyes moving. Really nice. And I took some shots. I had to wait till the deco to see if the camera recorded something, but YES, it did I am soooo happy with the pictures of this really special dive. So I have wreckpictures with a giant fish. The best combination.

For the deep divers here: Do you take pictures over 100m depth and was your camera still working? I know there are just a few housings that are made up to 100m depth. But are all buttons and functionality really working at such depths?

Stix already looses lift around 30m. I now have China 'Carbon' arms and they work well till at least 60m. Will try them to 120m next month.

Have tested a blue PMMA glass: does not work. Blue leds work with yellow filter. I can test it only at home as we don't have fluorescence here. But I have some line that shows if it works or not.

And have you tried blue filters in front of you strobes? And which ones? I have a UV diving light and a blue led diving light. The blue led with yellow filter gives much more intensity than the uv light. But strobes are brighter than lights, so is there an option to turn your strobes into blue excitation strobes?

Hi, new from the Netherlands. Just a beginner in photography, I bought my camera for cave-diving. But use it in open water also. Camera: Gopro7 for video and Olympus OMD EM5 mk2 with Isotta housing for pictures. Panasonic 8mm fisheye. No strobes yet, I use cheap China lights. Regards, Germie