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Swordfish

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Everything posted by Swordfish

  1. First time to take the A7R II down at the weekend. It was a bit challenging to use the FE 90mm in low light underwater, but maybe I need more practice. When it did focus, the results were very good. I had a housed 5D II before but used it exclusively for wide shots. Mantis shrimp: Goby on whip coral: Squid during night dive:
  2. I recently shifted to the A7R II and got the Ikelite housing. I have yet to take the system down but this is how I plan to deal with the short battery life. The small power bank gives me the equivalent of another FW50 battery.
  3. May I know what port you use with the Samyang fisheye? I'm also thinking of taking the Samyang 14mm down and it looks like my 5510.25 is perfect for it. Thanks.
  4. I just got the Ikelite housing for the A7R II and was shocked to discover that this housing gives you a teeny-tiny view using the built-in eyepiece. Coming from the Ikelite housing for the Canon 5D II, I'd say this is a major downgrade as far as viewfinder use is concerned, which gives you about 60% to 70% view (compared with 90% to 95% on the Ikelite 5D II housing). It puts the A7R II's giant viewfinder to waste. It's a shame Ikelite doesn't mention this on their website. No, I don't plan to splurge another $1,000 on a viewfinder magnifier. The tray also doesn't have a lock, so be careful that the camera doesn't fall when opening the housing. You also can't switch from TTL to manual strobe control (and vice versa) underwater, which I've been able to do in my previous housing. You have to open the housing to flick the switch. Everything else is fine. But I had to highlight these negative points because the "professional" reviewers forgot to mention them. Unless there's something wrong with my housing. Is the built-on eyepiece really supposed to be that bad? Notice that I'm not comparing the housing with an Aquatica or Nauticam, but with an old Ikelite housing for the 5D II which really didn't look that bad.
  5. Hi, what's the optimal port for the Canon 15mm fisheye lens + Metabones IV adapter inside an Ikelite A7R II housing and the 8-inch dome? Ikelite only lists the Sigma 15mm fisheye lens + Metabones on its website and I think the Canon lens is a few millimeters shorter? Thanks a lot for any help.
  6. Underwater TTL Housing for Sony Alpha a7 II, a7R II, a7S II Mirrorless Digital CamerasAt long last!
  7. But that's the exact Tenergy 3800 that I have and they don't fit.
  8. Ordered these Tenergy 3800 sub-C batteries from the U.S. (I'm from Manila) and they don't fit, no matter what I do. Tenergy 3800
  9. I'm trying to determine the useable capacity by discharging the pack at its actual load current. Thanks.
  10. Hi, I'm trying to recondition my DS125 NiMH battery packs. I need to know how much current (amperes) the strobe uses. I know that it uses 6 Sub-C cells in series for a total 7.2 nominal volts. I've checked the manual but it doesn't say how many amperes. It does say its energy rating is 110 watt-sec. Thanks a lot.
  11. I actually went there last April and it was jam-packed. Visibility can change within a day so you can't really be sure.
  12. Just want to share some photos from my recent trip to Donsol, Sorsogon in the Philippines, where whale sharks pass by regularly to feed. This was my seventh trip to Donsol and I have probably jumped in the water and swam with these sharks almost a hundred times already, but it's a different experience every time. Scuba is prohibited when interacting with whale sharks, so these shots were taken on plain snorkeling gear. It's a bit challenging trying to channel your energy and breathing properly (and sometimes holding it) to keep up with the sharks (they are not slouchy swimmers!). The whale sharks are found by spotters using the naked eye, so no telescopes and helicopters just like in Ningaloo. This means lower fees (less than $15 for a four-hour boat trip). Here are several stories that I have written in the past on the gentle giants for a local newspaper. Face to face with Donsol's gentle giants Close encounters with a whale shark Close encounter with Donsol's butanding Protecting the habitat of whale sharks Cheers, Norman Fatty: First-timers: Free riders: Out of breath: Swimmers: Mobile store: Spotter: Round world:
  13. Was it your first time? It must have been exhilarating. I know the feeling, having swum with the biggest fish in the world many times in the past. Was this on scuba? About the whale sharks in silhouette, I disagree with the observation that they are not that pleasing. What's wrong with the whale shark's silhouette? On the contrary, I think it's majestic especially with the semi-sunburst above. Just a small suggestion: you might want to adjust the levels/curves of some of the shots because they are underexposed. A simple selective color command will also give you some pleasing blues. Cheers, Norman
  14. Don't ultra-wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) lenses already polarise the light? If you want to cut the harshness of the light, maybe you would do better to use a 0.3 or 0.6 ND filter. Besides, a polariser on an ultra-wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) could make the uneven darkness/lightness in the sky worse. My understanding of all this is based on topside shots, but I would think that it is true for the upper part of an over/under shot as well.
  15. Thank you for all the replies. I've been a journalist for 13 years (news writing) and my photos have been published before but only in publications owned by the company where I used to work. I started freelancing only recently. I ended up turning them down. Thanks again.
  16. A local airline magazine wants to publish a couple of my whale shark photos. I asked them if there is a separate rate for underwater photos but I was told the rate is the same — S$50 per photo. Is that a fair price? I know the rates will likely vary across countries, but is it standard practice to lump underwater and topside shots together? Thanks a lot. Swordfish Manila
  17. For sale: Ikelite underwater housing for Olympus E-3 Never took it on a dive, although I used it on a snorkeling trip once last year <photos>. Reason for selling: I lost everything in a flood late last year and I'm looking to finance the purchase of a new camera. Price: $840 + shipping from Manila (~$60) Thank you.
  18. Thanks. It looks like Ikelite starts using higher-capacity batteries as these become available. My two battery packs, made in July and November 2008, appear to top out at ~4000mAh, based on my tests. In the absence of clear specifications from Ikelite, one can only assume the capacity of one's battery pack based on how long it takes to charge it using the Ikelite smart charger.
  19. Battery pack capacity Could well be a 4,000mAh pack. I'm still looking for someone who has opened a recently made NiMH battery pack and who knows for sure.
  20. Does anybody know which Ikelite port I should get for the 14-54mm and EC-20 combo? Right now, I have the 8" dome assembly, the #5510.24 port for the 14-54mm and the #5510.25 port for the 7-14mm. I've checked the Ikelite Web site and can't find information on using teleconverters underwater. About the combo, do you think it is usable for macro work? I was thinking of using this setup until I get the 50mm macro (or even the long awaited 100mm macro from Olympus). Thanks.
  21. Felix, I also think the problem only occurs in newly manufactured strobes. I contacted Ikelite and they have agreed to send me the toggle pawl replacement kit via express mail. I hope your problems get resolved soon.
  22. To anyone interested in the partial outcome of my problem, check here: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ikelite/2...ttery-pack.html
  23. Thanks for the idea. I've checked it very carefully and no button is being depressed.
  24. Thanks for the link. I've e-mailed Ikelite to inquire about the part. Okay, it looks like my woes with this setup (E-3) are far from over. I set up the rig topside with the two strobes for the first time, and I have a problem having the strobes to fire. I've read about the experiences of some with a hotshoe connection being loose, and I've tried using rubber band to hold it in place. Here's the thing. As soon as the camera is pushed inside the housing, the strobes refuse to fire. I checked the TTL connector inside and it seemed to be in place because of the rubber band. I remove the housing back again and click the shutter outside the housing, and it fires okay. I put the housing back again in place very slowly -- I try not to push it fully -- and the strobes fire. But once I push it again and lock the housing, the strobes refuse to fire (I have checked the hotshoe connector and it looks fine with the rubber band. To cut the story short, I have an expensive housing that is only good without strobes. And I have expensive dual strobes that appear not to have any use at the moment. Yes, both my strobes have serial numbers that according to the Ikelite Web site comply with their TTL implementation. I bought the housing in Singapore in August 2008 and I live in the Philippines. So it won't be cheap to send the housing back to Ikelite for "repair." I've spent an hour trying to figure out what's wrong and I'm stumped. I didn't realize this Ikelite rig would give me such terrible headache. Any simple DIY ideas? Thank you. Norman
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