Jump to content

BurBunny

Industry
  • Content Count

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About BurBunny

  • Rank
    Triggerfish
  • Birthday 08/17/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Delray Beach, FL
  • Interests
    Anything in, on or under water! Travel agent.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    --
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Ever growing
  • Camera Housing
    Numerous
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon D180 x 2
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms/tray
  1. I normally shoot a Canon DLSR with dual arms and strobes. However, sometimes I want a more simple rig when diving for fun or travel and photography isn't the primary objective. To this end, am housing my Sony MX-100 to go with my GoPro, shooting ambient or with a video light. Looking for opinions on mounting the GoPro via cold shoe immediately above camera or on arm. Am thinking I'd prefer the options available on an arm, plus the balance, but would like input. Also, haven't seen any mounts which are designed for ULCS arms. Any help with that? -Amber
  2. Unfortunately, this isn't a direct gear system, it's indirect. The knob has a pole which drives the first gear, which then has the second gear at 90 degrees it drives, which in turn runs the third wheel - and it's only the third one which won't turn with any resistance against it. ARGH! I did determine that if I push up on the last gear with my finger (obviously can only do that when the port's detatched), it will engage and turn against resistance. So it's somehow slipped I think.
  3. James, The gear is fitting nicely on the lens barrel now. I wish that was the issue, as tape could easily fix that. Unfortunately, it's the gear wheel on the dome port which is the issue. I can't see how the gear is seated on the shaft, but it won't turn with any resistance at all against it, such as a finger or the lens gear ring. However, the zoom knob will still turn, and the gear in question will turn when there's no resistance against it, hence the thought I must have stripped it off something in there. Still hoping someone may have some insight...
  4. Was working on my rig today, preparing to head out to Fiji tomorrow afternoon. I remembered the last time I used my rig, the zoom gear ring for my Tokina 10-17 needed a bit of filing down so it would fit better on the lens. So I filed, put on the dome, tested, filed again... Well, at some point in the testing process, the zoom gear on my SeaTool dome stopped spinning the zoom gear ring on the lens. I now have it perfectly meshed up (the filing worked), but in the process, I may have somehow stripped the lower gear on the dome. It spins properly when there's nothing up against it. But give it the least bit of resistance, and nada. Put in a call to Reef, but Richard and Ryan are gone for the day... and there was no dome port in stock they could overnight me for the trip. Obviously, I can use the lens as a prime rather than a zoom, but... well, that's not optimal. Anyone have any ideas as to quick fixes I might be able to implement to give me zoom while I'm gone, then send in the dome port for a repair when I return? I'm thinking a touch of glue along the shaft to the bottom gear, but hate to do that without knowing more.
  5. We have one spot remaining for this fabulous trip, and we're playing "Let's Make a Deal!" Our deadline to add you to the discounted group air is June 17. Email me if you're interested and let's see if we can get you with this terrific group!
  6. Reef Photo and I are trying to figure out if a Sigma 10-20mm lens will fit into the SeaTool dome. While I'll be using the 10-17FE for most WA work, I'm getting a 10-20 or 10-22 for topside, and might as well have one which can work u/w for those times, like wrecks, when rectilinear is preferred to FE. We know the 10-22 requires boring out a bit of the collar. How about the 10-20? Fit without modifications? If someone here is using this configuration, will save Reef the time of tracking down a 10-20 to test.
  7. Second the suggestion earlier to also consider the SeaTool housing. If ergonomics and size are of concern, and you're already considering the Sea&Sea, the SeaTool should be be in the running as well. While I doubt they're available to you locally, they're worth a bit of effort. Full controls in the housing, TINY size (height and width were equivalent to my old Ikelite housing for a compact Fuji F810 - though depth is greater), very good build quality. They also allow for both electrical synch cords or fiberoptic connection to strobes.
  8. Not sure about the 350D, but the 400D has a face "sensor" on the back just under the viewfinder. It's to automatically turn off the LCD when your face is at the viewfinder so as to not distract you or interfere. Have a feeling the 350 housing is blocking this sensor in some way, telling the camera to keep the LCD off.
  9. In addition to the above, I'd suggest French Polynesia. Moorea, Bora Bora and Rangiroa. The reefs are hard coral rather than the prettier soft, but lots and lots of life on them and about as many sharks as you could hope to have.
  10. Yeah, I need to break myself of the habit of replying to him, but with Alcina on holiday, and the fact he's maligning me personally, feel I have to respond so those who don't know him don't think he actually has a clue. Actually, at least with the 400D, you can set a focus point other than center. I've been playing with it offset (to be able to frame on the rule of thirds) and it seems to work beautifully, at least with C.Fn4-1 as the mode. But of course that means playing with the focus point shot to shot, and loosing the cross point of the center focus point. If you have just a single focus point chosen, instead of all points, it does flash when that point gets focus lock. When you set the single focus point, look through the viewfinder or the LCD (if your camera supports this on the LCD) whilst twirling the dial to set. It will show you which focus point is currently selected.
  11. Thanks, Stu - was what I was hoping to hear! Knew it was fast, but wasn't sure if it was sensitive enough on such a small target focus point. If I can finally get my pygmy seahorse shot which is crisp, I'll be a very happy camper. Tired of "almost, but not quite" shots, but haven't tried one yet with the new DSLR.
  12. Thanks for the input. I know that in the past, Seahorse was very good about being aware of tides, current, moon cycles and planned and dropped accordingly, but wasn't sure if that was still the case, nor if the AII matched dive service to her luxurious accommodations.
×
×
  • Create New...