Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

1 Follower

About mdo905

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Maryland, USA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

639 profile views
  1. There is very little information about snoots for Sea & Sea YS-01 strobes, so I thought I'd share my recent experience with the Flip Snoot Pro (https://www.uwcamerastore.com/flip-snoot-pro-for-sea-sea-ys-01-ys-02-ys-03). I took a chance by buying it without much info or reviews. In a nutshell, it works! I was pretty concerned about the YS-01's target light being off-center, resulting in aiming difficulties. The target light isn't very bright, so it's impossible to see at depths shallower than ~30 ft (~10m) on clear days, but it worked just fine otherwise and especially at night. Apparently, the YS-01 Solis target light is notably brighter, so the issue likely wouldn't be as significant for that later model. Also, I read a scubaboard forum topic where the poster stated that the hinged snoot would float in front of the strobe at undesirable times, but I had the opposite experience - the hinge was very tight and kept it out of the way. In preparation for this issue, I placed a zip tie around the circumference of the strobe that contained a rubber band and looped the rubber band around the snoot "nose" for the first dive. However, I didn't do it on later dives for the reason stated. The snoot comes with small and medium light beam size attachments, and I also bought the large beam size attachment just in case. I use an LX-10 with CMC-1 and CMC-2 lenses. The medium beam was a wider than I would like for the CMC-2's field of view, but the small beam was good for the CMC-1 (see photos). I didn't try using the large beam size on the trip. I'm quite happy with my first experience with a snoot and am definitely looking forward to using it on future trips.
  2. Yes, it's still available and I can ship to India.
  3. For sale is a Nauticam M67 flip diopter holder for M67 macro ports, SKU# 25101. Almost brand-new condition. Used for ~10 dives. $225 + shipping. Current retail price is $328, so it's a little over $100 off while still basically new. Can provide more pictures upon request.
  4. The WWL-C is definitely too big and heavy to use on a flip holder, and I'm not sure how practical since the WWL-C only connects with a bayonet mount (no 67mm threads). You'd need to add 67mm threads with another adapter. I routinely take my WWL-C on and off during dives by tilting the camera down, grabbing onto the dome shade, hitting the release lever, and twisting. It takes a little bit of concentration and practice, but it's easy now and I've never fumbled (despite *admittedly* having small hands for a guy). When I swap, the exchange has my full attention so I don't drop it. Instead of having two holders, what about the double holder (83253)? With it, the reach and movement is consistent and you have arm space for floats, if needed. My right hand is always hitting the release levers or grabbing the camera handle, and my left hand is always moving the WWL-C or CMC. I have no issues with mounting the WWL-C on a 7" arm for fish portraits.
  5. @ChrisRossSo I just got back from my trip and you're right, f5.6 allows me to use 1/2 power on the YS-01s for wide angle vs full power at f8. And when I came up for CFWA, needed to stop down and reduce power too. Definitely easier on the batteries.
  6. Nauticam uses the caddy and port sides as the female side of the mount and the lens as the male side. The WWL-C come with the male side already built in and the WWL-1/1B comes with both a male end bayonet adapter and a male end 67mm threads adapter, so you just need to buy the female side bayonet that attaches to the port's 67mm threads (Nauticam sku#83250). For other lenses, you need an adapter, but Nauticam really doesn't sell one for any other macro lens other than their brand's lenses and bayonet mounts are not compatible between brands. If you look at the SMC and CMC lenses, the 67mm threads are not in the same plane as the rear lens - the glass is offset outward by a few millimeters. So, using a SubSea 10+ with the only available macro nauticam bayonet mount (the SMC/CMC one) would result in a couple millimeter separation from the port when in place. That separation likely wouldn't allow optimal magnification, as far as I would guess? I have two caddies that fit on the same section of arm - they're just back-to-back. I take off the WWL-C and attach it to the open caddy on the arm, then take the diopter (normally a CMC-2 ) off the arm caddy and attach it to the port. It's an easy swap. What it comes down to is if you want a WWL-C, you're stuck with Nauticam bayonet system because it's the only way it attaches. You'd also have to buy the more expensive CMC lens if you want to take advantage of the bayonet system and swap lenses underwater. It is a nice set-up though. You may be able to use the WWL-1/1B (attaching the 67mm threads) and the SubSea 10+ with the AOI bayonet system, but it looks like AOI only sells a single arm mounted caddy, which would make changing lenses a pain. I also don't know how compatible the WWL-1/1B with 67mm threads and the AOI bayonet adapter are. You'd have to contact Backscatter or Bluewater to get an answer.
  7. As for Ikelite vs. Nauticam housings, I have no idea. I had a UWL-H100 type 2. The rear lens actually made contact with my port, so it was a close as it could have been and I still had to zoom to 34mm. As for the white balance on the LX-10, it's easy to adjust and worked well, however, you still need strobes to get color to "pop" underwater.
  8. Ha, it was me and another member talking about the vignetting of the WWL-C in the other thread. He seemed to have more of it than I notice. I'm still an amateur UW photography with only about 20 dives with this exact setup, so maybe I just don't see it yet. We'll see how I feel after my next trip that starts this Saturday. Yes, a WWL-1 is definitely a wider FOV. However, I'm happy with my 115ish degree FOV considering the WWL-C is notably smaller than the WWL-1 and I can comfortably put it on the strobe arm. I doubt the WWL-1/1B would be able to comfortably fit there. I'm using f8 most of the time, so I can definitely stop-up. I'm still figuring the camera out and would like to get the greatest depth of field. When I'm on full power, I do get enough light at f8 and it's not like I'm taking 200 full power shots per dive. Chris, what would you recommend aperture that I try for most of my shots?
  9. I have the LX-10 and WWL-C. The WWL-C is notably lighter underwater (.25 kg vs. .62 kg), so you don't have to deal with a buoyancy collar. However, they just came out with the WWL-1B, which is even lighter underwater (.12kg). I've had no issue swapping the WWL-C onto a 7" arm bayonet mount and keeping it there - to me, its not as big of an issue as one would think (and even I have small hands that could make changing it underwater hazardous). The dome shade is relatively easy to grab on to for changes, whereas the WWL-1B could be difficult to deal with. I tend to keep the WWL-C port mounted and only swap out to my CMC-1/2 when needed. Keeping it on the arm for a couple minutes is no issue at all, as long as you have enough floats so you have enough buoyancy overall. I *barely* notice any vigonetting at 28mm and none at 30mm, despite what Nauticam's charts say. I do have their case for the LX-10, so maybe their 67mm threads are cut closer to the port and they're taking worst case scenario of other manufacturer's cases? That will be the big question for your Ikelite housing. I've tried the UWL-100 and it didn't work at all. I had to zoom to 34mm and I basically had no gain in FOV. You could go with the dome, but you'd need a buoyancy collar and no zoom through. I would advise against it. Needless to say, I'm really happy with my set-up. Backscatter's review is true for me where I can swap out wide to macro quickly and easily, but I'm using the Nauticam case. My other comments is that you're not going to have enough light for wide angle. I have two YS-01s and both are at 3/4 or full power to get enough light for the WWL-C at any reasonably closed aperture. A single S2000, which is notably weaker than the YS-01, is not going to cut it for any wide angle. Feel free to PM me with any questions (or put them here).
  10. Yes, it should work. M67 port is a flat port with 67mm threads.
  11. Yes, I still have the flip mount for sale. The flip holder only connects a M67 flat port to a SMC/CMC lens. Which Nauticam housing did you get? It connects to the M67 port via the center ring in the picture above. That center ring screws into the threads of the M67 port, compressing one side of the flip mount between it and the M67 port. A small pin keeps the mount from rotating.
  12. Turns out I struck a deal with another forum member (thanks calbeardiver!) that I couldn't turn down, so I now have a CMC-1 too. We'll see how well I can focus with my compact LX-10 after some practice. I know using an MFT and other detachable lens camera system will get me much nicer macro shots, but the size, weight, and cost of those systems just isn't what I'm looking for. I'm just planning to see how good I can get with my compact for my foreseeable future. Thanks to everyone who replied.
  13. What port do you want the flip holder for? I have one for an M67 that I never did sell. Price is negotiable.
  14. I just struck a deal with another forum member for a CMC-1 and am now looking for a Nauticam SMC/CMC bayonet mount adapter, sku# 83214, for it. Just seeing if anybody has one they're not using and willing to sell?
  • Create New...