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mdo905

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About mdo905

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  1. @ChrisRossSo I just got back from my trip and you're right, f5.6 allows me to use 1/2 power on the YS-01s for wide angle vs full power at f8. And when I came up for CFWA, needed to stop down and reduce power too. Definitely easier on the batteries.
  2. Nauticam uses the caddy and port sides as the female side of the mount and the lens as the male side. The WWL-C come with the male side already built in and the WWL-1/1B comes with both a male end bayonet adapter and a male end 67mm threads adapter, so you just need to buy the female side bayonet that attaches to the port's 67mm threads (Nauticam sku#83250). For other lenses, you need an adapter, but Nauticam really doesn't sell one for any other macro lens other than their brand's lenses and bayonet mounts are not compatible between brands. If you look at the SMC and CMC lenses, the 67mm threads are not in the same plane as the rear lens - the glass is offset outward by a few millimeters. So, using a SubSea 10+ with the only available macro nauticam bayonet mount (the SMC/CMC one) would result in a couple millimeter separation from the port when in place. That separation likely wouldn't allow optimal magnification, as far as I would guess? I have two caddies that fit on the same section of arm - they're just back-to-back. I take off the WWL-C and attach it to the open caddy on the arm, then take the diopter (normally a CMC-2 ) off the arm caddy and attach it to the port. It's an easy swap. What it comes down to is if you want a WWL-C, you're stuck with Nauticam bayonet system because it's the only way it attaches. You'd also have to buy the more expensive CMC lens if you want to take advantage of the bayonet system and swap lenses underwater. It is a nice set-up though. You may be able to use the WWL-1/1B (attaching the 67mm threads) and the SubSea 10+ with the AOI bayonet system, but it looks like AOI only sells a single arm mounted caddy, which would make changing lenses a pain. I also don't know how compatible the WWL-1/1B with 67mm threads and the AOI bayonet adapter are. You'd have to contact Backscatter or Bluewater to get an answer.
  3. As for Ikelite vs. Nauticam housings, I have no idea. I had a UWL-H100 type 2. The rear lens actually made contact with my port, so it was a close as it could have been and I still had to zoom to 34mm. As for the white balance on the LX-10, it's easy to adjust and worked well, however, you still need strobes to get color to "pop" underwater.
  4. Ha, it was me and another member talking about the vignetting of the WWL-C in the other thread. He seemed to have more of it than I notice. I'm still an amateur UW photography with only about 20 dives with this exact setup, so maybe I just don't see it yet. We'll see how I feel after my next trip that starts this Saturday. Yes, a WWL-1 is definitely a wider FOV. However, I'm happy with my 115ish degree FOV considering the WWL-C is notably smaller than the WWL-1 and I can comfortably put it on the strobe arm. I doubt the WWL-1/1B would be able to comfortably fit there. I'm using f8 most of the time, so I can definitely stop-up. I'm still figuring the camera out and would like to get the greatest depth of field. When I'm on full power, I do get enough light at f8 and it's not like I'm taking 200 full power shots per dive. Chris, what would you recommend aperture that I try for most of my shots?
  5. I have the LX-10 and WWL-C. The WWL-C is notably lighter underwater (.25 kg vs. .62 kg), so you don't have to deal with a buoyancy collar. However, they just came out with the WWL-1B, which is even lighter underwater (.12kg). I've had no issue swapping the WWL-C onto a 7" arm bayonet mount and keeping it there - to me, its not as big of an issue as one would think (and even I have small hands that could make changing it underwater hazardous). The dome shade is relatively easy to grab on to for changes, whereas the WWL-1B could be difficult to deal with. I tend to keep the WWL-C port mounted and only swap out to my CMC-1/2 when needed. Keeping it on the arm for a couple minutes is no issue at all, as long as you have enough floats so you have enough buoyancy overall. I *barely* notice any vigonetting at 28mm and none at 30mm, despite what Nauticam's charts say. I do have their case for the LX-10, so maybe their 67mm threads are cut closer to the port and they're taking worst case scenario of other manufacturer's cases? That will be the big question for your Ikelite housing. I've tried the UWL-100 and it didn't work at all. I had to zoom to 34mm and I basically had no gain in FOV. You could go with the dome, but you'd need a buoyancy collar and no zoom through. I would advise against it. Needless to say, I'm really happy with my set-up. Backscatter's review is true for me where I can swap out wide to macro quickly and easily, but I'm using the Nauticam case. My other comments is that you're not going to have enough light for wide angle. I have two YS-01s and both are at 3/4 or full power to get enough light for the WWL-C at any reasonably closed aperture. A single S2000, which is notably weaker than the YS-01, is not going to cut it for any wide angle. Feel free to PM me with any questions (or put them here).
  6. Yes, it should work. M67 port is a flat port with 67mm threads.
  7. Yes, I still have the flip mount for sale. The flip holder only connects a M67 flat port to a SMC/CMC lens. Which Nauticam housing did you get? It connects to the M67 port via the center ring in the picture above. That center ring screws into the threads of the M67 port, compressing one side of the flip mount between it and the M67 port. A small pin keeps the mount from rotating.
  8. Turns out I struck a deal with another forum member (thanks calbeardiver!) that I couldn't turn down, so I now have a CMC-1 too. We'll see how well I can focus with my compact LX-10 after some practice. I know using an MFT and other detachable lens camera system will get me much nicer macro shots, but the size, weight, and cost of those systems just isn't what I'm looking for. I'm just planning to see how good I can get with my compact for my foreseeable future. Thanks to everyone who replied.
  9. What port do you want the flip holder for? I have one for an M67 that I never did sell. Price is negotiable.
  10. I just struck a deal with another forum member for a CMC-1 and am now looking for a Nauticam SMC/CMC bayonet mount adapter, sku# 83214, for it. Just seeing if anybody has one they're not using and willing to sell?
  11. I currently have a CMC-2 with an LX-10 in a Nauticam case and used the lens for the first time in my most recent dive trip. While I loved size of the camera set-up and ability to swap between the CMC-2 and the WWL-C with the bayonet system, I found myself wishing for more magnification on the CMC-2. Also, I struggled at times getting the CMC-2 in focus because the depth of field is shallow. However, I only had a few dives to practice with it and am pretty sure I'll get much better. From what I understand, the CMC-1 has a minuscule depth of field, so it would be an even bigger challenge to focus. Is it worth it for me to get a CMC-1? I already have a trip scheduled to the Philippines where I know there will be some pigmy seahorses and other beautiful tiny creatures. Any advice is appreciated. I don't want to buy gear that I won't be able to use effectively, especially pricy Nauticam items.
  12. Lowered price for the a flip diopter holder: $200 shipped to US. Contact me for international shipping cost.
  13. For sale is a Nauticam M67 flip diopter holder for M67 macro ports, SKU# 25101. Almost brand-new condition - used for ~10 dives. I have switched to the bayonet system, so I have no need for two diopter mounts. $210 + shipping. Also, two i-Das 5" arms for sale. Again, almost brand new condition - ~ 10 dives. $30 shipped to US. $230 + shipping for all three.
  14. Well..I just. bought a WWL-C. I have a trip in October and really wanted to have the lens for it. I tested it in my wash basin with the nauticam LX-10 case and vignetting was eliminated at 28mm for f/11, f/8. f/5.6, f/4, f/2.8, which is way better than I was expecting considering Nauticam's compatibility chart: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SLJDkS0NLLbYHUShF6Krof-dufWMynop/view says 32mm-72mm. Am I missing something here? I made sure to burp the lens. Could it be the photo aspect ratio or because I was using aperture priority mode during the test? Right now, I don't see why they stated 32mm. I am super happy though with only having to zoom to 28mm, which gives a 122 deg FOV (using ChrisRoss's ratio method above).
  15. UWL-H100 28 M67 has been sold. Price reduction: Nauticam Wetmate: $100 + shipping or best offer Macromate Mini: $50 shipped to US, $45+shipping to anywhere else
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