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sanichols

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About sanichols

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.sanichols.com

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D200
  • Camera Housing
    Sea&Sea DX-200
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-90
  1. So, I can afford to buy the Tokina 10-17mm new with the S&S sx extension ring. For the same price I could get the Nikon 16mm new. Alternately, I could get the Nikon 16mm used from Adorama (Demo quality - next to highest) and save a few bucks.... which should be a priority .. if I were responsible Any experience with Adorama. How about buying used? What would YOU do.... I can't seem to make a decision.
  2. Very cool. They are salps, which are like colonial, floating sea-squirts (tunicates).
  3. Thanks for the tips! This was the info that I needed. As for leaving gear on deck.... in PNG I had all of my gear stolen in the middle of the night despite having a crew member sittting on deck as security (we were near Manus Island). I'm hesitant to do that anymore, but this time I'll be in the Bahamas on a 200 ft NOAA vessel, so I'm not particularly concerned about boarders. Thanks again! Scott
  4. So, I dive in Northern California and never have condensation problems. I soon will take my new D200 in a DX200 housing (S&S) on an air-conditioned liveaboard in the tropics. What sequence do people use to set-up while avoiding condensation. Should I: 1. set-up camera/housing complete in my air-conditioned berth. Go on deck and dive. Rinse, dry, return to air conditioned berth and swap batteries, lenses, ports, etc. Go on deck and dive.... or 2. take housing and camera onto deck separately and wrap camera in a towel while it warms and then wipe off condensation on housing when it warms. Set it up and dive. Return to berth to swap batteries and then repeat? I don't know... how do you do it?
  5. Well - in the case of sponges, depth is not going to be informative. A photo is about the best you can do without a sample. And this is definitely a sponge - I looked closely at the cropped photo that shows close detail and there are clearly oscules.
  6. Yep - looks like a sponge. Maybe of the genus Dysidea? Also, the spikey thing around it is also a sponge of the genus Callyspongia.
  7. First of all, does anybody have experience with the Sea&Sea LX-15 focus light? It seems reasonably diffuse, but there is a bright spot in the very middle that I predict might show up in my photos (I haven't taken this system in the water at all yet -- probably should be the first thing I do!). If this is a problem, I thought I would use the stick-on window frosting that you can buy in large rolls to put on your bathroom windows (or whatever). I put a piece over the focus light beam and it makes it perfectly diffuse. Two potential problems... 1) if a bubble forms during application it might make for a funky lighting effect; 2) I know that the light shouldn't get too hot in my native Californian waters, but in the tropics maybe it will heat up and melt the plastic'y' film? Advice....? Thanks. Scott
  8. Thanks for all of the feedback. I think I should go rent some of these ports/lenses and have a go for myself, although I am very tempted to just buy the 60mm because it seems to promise great photos on at least one or two finer scales. Does anyone have any close shots with the 17-55mm (i.e., at the 55mm end) that could give a feel for what the lens can do. Actually, that would be a really cool/helpful section for this forum: links organized by camera+lens where photos could collect as examples of the possible. For example, a Nikon D100/D200 with 17-55mm lens thread. I know that many examples are scattered throughout the board, but this would organize it. Thanks again!
  9. This housing is in fine condition... only cosmetic scuff marks. You can buy the housing for $300 and the Pelican Case with padded dividers for $85. Buyer pays shipping. contact me by replying here or by email: nichols1@berkeley.edu
  10. So, I have a D200 in a Sea&Sea housing. I have one YS 90 strobe and sync cord already from my old point and shoot set-up. I can only afford one lens/port combination. (I also have a 24/85mm lens that I bought for surface use, but after a previous post and some research have decided not to mess with this lens underwater). It seems like the obvious lens choice is a 60mm with a standard flat port... Any opinions? Most of my shooting is in the Monterey/Carmel area, but I will spend two weeks in the Bahamas in June (and the 60mm might leave me frustrated there...). You can get a feel for the things that I tend to shoot (e.g., sponges.... but some can be large!) by looking at some pics that I took with my old Olympus C4040: Papua New Guinea - http://www.flickr.com/photos/sanichols/set...57594349232333/ California - http://www.flickr.com/photos/sanichols/set...57594349224811/ ...What lens would allow me to continue to shoot things at this scale... ?
  11. Thanks Stefin! So, very few people use the 24/85 for underwater work. Since you have experience in this area, would you rather opt for separate 60mm and, say, 20mm lenses with separate ports? Or, would you buy the zoom port and use the 24/85 as a fixed focal length lens ('cause I know I won't fiddle with making my own zoom gear). -Scott
  12. So, I am buying the DX-200 for my D200 DSLR. I have the Nikkor 24-85mm AF lens already. Now, I have some questions: 1. Has anyone used this lens underwater? 2. Does Sea&Sea make a zoom gear that will work with this lens? 3. Could I buy a dome port and decide to use the lens in macro or WA before the dive, or perhaps buy a dome and a flat port and use it at either 24 or 85... or 24 or 60 or whatever? 4. If I buy a 60mm lens and flat port for macro could I use the 24-85mm in a dome port and expect reasonable results? 5. I've heard of getting a teleconverter for the 60mm for smaller animals.... what is that (exposing my ignorance). Thanks for your advice. -Scott Oh... 6. I have one ys-90 strobe. Should I buy another? It seems like many of my photos in the past have had long shadows.... (with a P & S Olympus).
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