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About Cathy

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  • Birthday 06/22/1945

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  • Location
    Cayman Islands

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    Cayman Islands
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D2x, Olympus SP350, and more
  • Camera Housing
    Subal, Olympus and more
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea and Sea YS90DX, and more
  • Accessories
  1. The question about the screen going dark applies only when you are setting the manual mode for a dark background while you are using the strobe for the light source. If you set your camera to be several stops underexposed, does the screen also turn dark?
  2. A good photo can be documentary or artistic. To be artistic, you need to make it clear to the viewer what he should be looking at or feeling. In many images, you want to identify your main point of interest. The five characteristics that draw our eyes to the main point of interest are the 1) brightest, 2) most colorful, 3) sharp, 4) contrasty area, and if the subject has eyes, then the 5) eyes will draw your attention to the point of interest. When all or most of these five characteristics occur together, it makes the main point quite obvious, but when are scattered, then there is confusion and we say that the photo is not very good. For example, if the brightest area is a blurry foreground, and the most colorful area is something along the side, and the eyes are actually the main point of interest but are not exposed properly, then there is confusion. Using these five characteristics to asses the main point of interest helps when critiqueing a photo. Try one, and we can compare ideas. How about the one of the diver and the manatee? It is a great documentary of a wonderful event. But how would you make that also an artistic photo? What is the brightest area--the cheeks. Wouldn't it have been nice if the mask were more open and we could see the diver's eyes. Also, the manatee happens to have a very dark eye or maybe a shadow over the eye. Your eye wanders from the bright face area and then sort of around the back of the manatee's head. Feel your eyes move as you look at the photo. If the diver were not wearing a black hood and the entire head were lighter, then the bright cheeks would not be such a contrast. Then the implied eye contact may over power the conflict of rightness and contrast. Just my opinion, of course. Cathy Church
  3. Unless things have changed quite recently, Sea and Sea does not have a zoom gear for the Sigma 10 - 20. They do have gears for the Nikkor 12- 24mm lens, although this lens is not rated quite as high as the award winning Sigma 10 - 20. They have a comparable zoom range (102 degree - 64 degrees for the Sigma, and 99 - 61 for the Nikkor, but the Sigma focuses closer.) I have tried to ask Sea and Sea to add the Sigma gears to their offerings, so keep the pressure on them. The port itself should be no problem if it sits at the right distance. The lens is a little long and it works better in my system (Subal with 8-inch dome) with a short extension ring.
  4. If you have a nice external strobe, you may not have to worry so much about white balance. There is a lot to be said for just setting the white balance on cloudy, and letting your strobe provide wonderful color on the foreground. Enjoy the journey, Cathy Church
  5. Do you like shy fish that need to be shot from a distance? If so add the 105mm. It is more difficult to use than the 60mm, but in really clear water, and lots of patience, you can fill the frame with subjects like the face of a Moorish Idol. However, since most of the more interesting PNG type of critters allow you to get close, the 105 may force you to shoot from too far away. Many people like the Tokina FE 10 - 17 mm, but in the widest mode (180 degrees diagonal), where you are the most creative, it is not as sharp as the Nikkor 10.5mm lens. You get more Chromatic aberration but then you can't zoom for those more distant sharks. If you like the pelagic action shots, stick with the zoom. If you like enlargements of creative close-ups with an ultra wide (weitwinkel) lens, stick with the 10.5 mm. Hope this helps. Cathy Church
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