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Stoo

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Stoo last won the day on September 12 2016

Stoo had the most liked content!

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About Stoo

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.wetspotimages.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Canada
  • Camera Model & Brand
    D7000, Nikkor 12-24, 105 macro, 60 macro, Tokina 10-17, 45 Viewfinder
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    DS 161 x 2
  • Accessories
    TLC arms
  1. That would be cool. I love my 161's and they're bombproof it seems. But they've been around a while and they ARE heavy. I lighter version, with brighter video lights would be awesome.
  2. It may not be an entirely accurate comparison but I have a Nikon 12-24 on a D7000. I find it pretty good for a lot of things, but not great at any of them. I replaced it with a Tokina 10-17 which is a far better WA lens. Having said that, there are times when I want a little more reach... sharks for example. I still want to get their entire body in, but they don't come close enough for the Tokina. It's not a fisheye either, which has it's benefits at times. Of course, when I realize that, it's sitting at home, collecting dust.
  3. Thanks Tom... I've heard that there is a way to post full frame, but again, it seems like a lot of work! ;-) @stu_seldon Don't rush. Although there is a link to my website there. ;-)
  4. OK folks, am I missing something here? I take great care in how I compose my images, but Instagram "insists" on cropping the image... doesn't it? I have nothing against square, but if I wanted a square image, I'd take it that way... Not to mention the ridiculous workflow to put an image up there from a laptop. Help out a skeptic will ya? ;-)
  5. I'm glad that that worked out for you. Sadly, most companies take the "replace, don't repair" approach. I suppose it's easier and adds more to their bottom line. Some time ago, I went through something similar with a refrigerator. My local sales/service guy wouldn't even come to look at it when I described the symptoms. I spent some time on Google, ordered a part on-line ($83 CAD) and with about 15 minutes effort, it was up and running and has been for two years not. A new refrigerator was going to be close to $2000.
  6. They're the same strobe, except the 161 has a video light in it. I don't shoot video, but I find it helpful in very low light situations. Whether it would help or not in a resale I couldn't say...
  7. If you want an actual label, these things are bomb-proof... http://mabelslabels.com/
  8. Agree about the dividers rather than foam...
  9. It's a little bit "embellished" but amusing to read... ;-)
  10. I went through this myself years ago, and ultimately decided on the Pelican 1510 vs a backpack (Lowe-Pro and others have many options. I was quite taken with fstopgear.com although they're pricey). Several years later, I am happy with my decision... Here are my reasons why: I use an Aquatica/D7000 system and dual Ike strobes etc. Add it all up and it's surprisingly heavy. (Upwards of 35 pounds). This would get damn heavy totting it around all day. Due to the weight, it's entirely possible that some airline will insist I check it. With the Pelican, I know my stuff will be safe. The Pelican meets carry-on requirements and I have never been challenged. My only other comment would be that if you do opt for a Pelican, I seriously urge you to consider a roller case. With the case, my kit weighs 42 pounds. The other thing to consider with a case vs backpack is that a small pack will qualify as a "personal" item. In addition to my 1510, I carry a small Lowepro pack with a sleeve that protects my 15" Macbook Pro, and has enough space and pockets for another camera body, dive computers, travel documents etc. It's quite small, but easily fits in under the plane seat. I hope this helps!
  11. Written by my old pal Jill Heinerth, the article is about Tobermory, but features "me" as a resident dive-bum/fixture, as well as several of my images as well as Jill's!
  12. I dive a couple of times a year in conditions like you describe... black, tannin-laced water. Last year I decided I was going to get some decent images of this little wreck. My previous experience was you have described yours. So I added a little iTorch V10 and mount it on the cold shoe. I found that on the lowest white setting I was still getting backscatter. On the red setting my d7000 could focus fine and the scatter much less The light was cheap but my one complaint is that it eats batteries so get a spare! So
  13. All right you geniuses... someone must have had this problem before... I picked up an Aquatica 4" dome recently. It's a handy little thing, and I am very glad I bought. However, the little neoprene cover that came with it is useless. If the port is off of the housing, and doesn't have an extension on it, it's barely ok. Once it's either mounted to the ring, or the housing, there is simply no way the cover will stay on. It isn't deep enough to cover the ring etc. A friend out west had a rigid cap made for his, with some little spring loaded tabs in it... works well, but it's complicated. I fiddled with a couple of ideas but no joy.... Has anyone come up with a solution for this? This thing wasn't cheap, and I'd really prefer it not get scratched! Does anyone have another brand of 4" dome with a good cover? Maybe I could get one of those! Thanks!
  14. The answer will depend on what power you used on the strobes when you shot in manual mode. If you had them firing at full power, then you will likely get more shots in TTL since the strobes will shoot at less that full power most of the time. On the other hand, if you normally shot with the strobes at say 1/3 - 1/2 power like I do on my Ikes, then you may find you get a similar number or less. At the end of the day, when you give up control of the strobes to the camera, you have no way of knowing if they're going to shoot a little or shoot a lot... And so you get what you get.
  15. Very unlikely.. The pressure in a plane is "lower" but not drastically so. I think I would be inclined to take as much of it apart as you can and verify that the o-rings are sitting where they should be. I suppose you could always take the housing for a dive without the camera just so you have confidence in it...
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