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Everything posted by Stoo

  1. That would be cool. I love my 161's and they're bombproof it seems. But they've been around a while and they ARE heavy. I lighter version, with brighter video lights would be awesome.
  2. It may not be an entirely accurate comparison but I have a Nikon 12-24 on a D7000. I find it pretty good for a lot of things, but not great at any of them. I replaced it with a Tokina 10-17 which is a far better WA lens. Having said that, there are times when I want a little more reach... sharks for example. I still want to get their entire body in, but they don't come close enough for the Tokina. It's not a fisheye either, which has it's benefits at times. Of course, when I realize that, it's sitting at home, collecting dust.
  3. Thanks Tom... I've heard that there is a way to post full frame, but again, it seems like a lot of work! ;-) @stu_seldon Don't rush. Although there is a link to my website there. ;-)
  4. OK folks, am I missing something here? I take great care in how I compose my images, but Instagram "insists" on cropping the image... doesn't it? I have nothing against square, but if I wanted a square image, I'd take it that way... Not to mention the ridiculous workflow to put an image up there from a laptop. Help out a skeptic will ya? ;-)
  5. I'm glad that that worked out for you. Sadly, most companies take the "replace, don't repair" approach. I suppose it's easier and adds more to their bottom line. Some time ago, I went through something similar with a refrigerator. My local sales/service guy wouldn't even come to look at it when I described the symptoms. I spent some time on Google, ordered a part on-line ($83 CAD) and with about 15 minutes effort, it was up and running and has been for two years not. A new refrigerator was going to be close to $2000.
  6. They're the same strobe, except the 161 has a video light in it. I don't shoot video, but I find it helpful in very low light situations. Whether it would help or not in a resale I couldn't say...
  7. If you want an actual label, these things are bomb-proof... http://mabelslabels.com/
  8. Agree about the dividers rather than foam...
  9. It's a little bit "embellished" but amusing to read... ;-)
  10. I went through this myself years ago, and ultimately decided on the Pelican 1510 vs a backpack (Lowe-Pro and others have many options. I was quite taken with fstopgear.com although they're pricey). Several years later, I am happy with my decision... Here are my reasons why: I use an Aquatica/D7000 system and dual Ike strobes etc. Add it all up and it's surprisingly heavy. (Upwards of 35 pounds). This would get damn heavy totting it around all day. Due to the weight, it's entirely possible that some airline will insist I check it. With the Pelican, I know my stuff will be safe. The Pelican meets carry-on requirements and I have never been challenged. My only other comment would be that if you do opt for a Pelican, I seriously urge you to consider a roller case. With the case, my kit weighs 42 pounds. The other thing to consider with a case vs backpack is that a small pack will qualify as a "personal" item. In addition to my 1510, I carry a small Lowepro pack with a sleeve that protects my 15" Macbook Pro, and has enough space and pockets for another camera body, dive computers, travel documents etc. It's quite small, but easily fits in under the plane seat. I hope this helps!
  11. Written by my old pal Jill Heinerth, the article is about Tobermory, but features "me" as a resident dive-bum/fixture, as well as several of my images as well as Jill's!
  12. I dive a couple of times a year in conditions like you describe... black, tannin-laced water. Last year I decided I was going to get some decent images of this little wreck. My previous experience was you have described yours. So I added a little iTorch V10 and mount it on the cold shoe. I found that on the lowest white setting I was still getting backscatter. On the red setting my d7000 could focus fine and the scatter much less The light was cheap but my one complaint is that it eats batteries so get a spare! So
  13. All right you geniuses... someone must have had this problem before... I picked up an Aquatica 4" dome recently. It's a handy little thing, and I am very glad I bought. However, the little neoprene cover that came with it is useless. If the port is off of the housing, and doesn't have an extension on it, it's barely ok. Once it's either mounted to the ring, or the housing, there is simply no way the cover will stay on. It isn't deep enough to cover the ring etc. A friend out west had a rigid cap made for his, with some little spring loaded tabs in it... works well, but it's complicated. I fiddled with a couple of ideas but no joy.... Has anyone come up with a solution for this? This thing wasn't cheap, and I'd really prefer it not get scratched! Does anyone have another brand of 4" dome with a good cover? Maybe I could get one of those! Thanks!
  14. The answer will depend on what power you used on the strobes when you shot in manual mode. If you had them firing at full power, then you will likely get more shots in TTL since the strobes will shoot at less that full power most of the time. On the other hand, if you normally shot with the strobes at say 1/3 - 1/2 power like I do on my Ikes, then you may find you get a similar number or less. At the end of the day, when you give up control of the strobes to the camera, you have no way of knowing if they're going to shoot a little or shoot a lot... And so you get what you get.
  15. Very unlikely.. The pressure in a plane is "lower" but not drastically so. I think I would be inclined to take as much of it apart as you can and verify that the o-rings are sitting where they should be. I suppose you could always take the housing for a dive without the camera just so you have confidence in it...
  16. Did you know you can buy Krazy Glue in what are basically single-use tubes? There's a few of them sold together, but they're kinda handy! I suspect that the trick with that particular repair is that if the adhesive creates any "thickness" the hole diameter might end up larger than the shaft it presumably sticks on. Is it soft rubber, or is it hard plastic? At Home Depot they have a really good "adhesives" display with about two dozen different types with a listing of what each will stick...
  17. Whatever way you can! I have had funny little things happen over the years. Most recently, I tiny spring that retracts the focus lock control got mangled. I took some macro images of it, and sent them to Aquatica. They sent me a replacement in the mail. I've had the little vinyl/rubber tips wear out on controls... I used a tiny strip of Duct Tape wrapped around the end until once again, Aquatica sent me a little bag of them... I had one of the female battery connections come unstuck from the housing on my Ikelite 161. When I lifted the battery pack out, the female terminal tried to pull out of the strobe body. I could feel the resistance and was able to fix it with a tiny bit of marine epoxy. The rubber ring around my Tokina lens came lose... No time to send it to Tokina to repair as I was leaving on a trip, so a few drops of Krazy Glue stuck it "temporarily". That was three years ago. My point is, you do what you need to to keep diving and shooting. I'd send a pic of your rubber wheel to the manufacturer but glue it in the mean time (assuming you can replace it ok). It it's "good as new" then you'll have a spare.
  18. Yes, I dream of travelling with little more than some tight, white, shorts... My wife is tiny. Thus her gear is tiny, and relatively light. But I don't want to check lenses... so pockets or nothing. I looked at driving to Belize, but it's quite far from Tobermory. :-P
  19. I am packing up for a trip to Belize and I am (once again) trying to reduce the pile of camera "stuff" I will take. My normal quiver contains: Tokina 10-17, Nikon 60 Macro, Nikon 105 macro. I also have a Nikon 12-24 which can be a handy lens at times. This lens requires my 8" dome, where the Tokina works well with my 4". I also have a Nikon 18-105 for the odd land pic, and a separate D7000 body for backup. I'm just curious about your opinions on taking all of these lenses. Currently, everything can be crammed into a Pelican carry-on, except the domes, the spare body and 18-105... and the 12-24 would need to ride elsewhere. Also, in my next life, I am taking up badminton instead of underwater photography, for a hobby.
  20. They won't. Some will just say you can't take it. Good luck proving it's allowed.
  21. I use my system weekly for perhaps nine months of the year, then montly over the winter. I tend to leave stuff together following the point made above... if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I tend to store it with the back unlatched. Having said that, I do pull everything apart every once in a while to clean and lube. Bear in mind that I dive primarily in fresh water, so salt isn't a concern. I am preparing to head off to Belize shortly, and I spent most of yesterday cleaning and lubing and replacing some o-rings... including the ones on my sync cables, although I haven't done this in years. I wanted to mention though, that I removed the small extension ring on my 8" dome... something I rarely do, since that's the only place I use it. It was clearly dry and I could feel a bit of a "ridge" in it. I replaced that one. (I have a new 4" dome coming this week, so this ring is going to get moved around a bit.) Regarding the o-rings around buttons... I don't think you will find a manufacturer that DOESN'T recommend that your housing shouldn't be completely overhauled from time to time. Those small, hidden o-rings dry out, and likely get bits of debris in them.
  22. I don't... You need to be aware of how you are placing the strobes of course, but that's no different than any other lens. I shoot a lot of WA at home and my strobes are out as far as I can get them, and pointing away from "straight" be maybe 30°. With macro, I have them pulled in fairly close the housing, and pointing (generally) somewhat inward unless the water clarity is horrible. I've always found lighting macro to be relatively simple with a little practice, simply because there is so little water between subject and lens...
  23. When I'm not diving, I am almost as obsessed with skiing, although I have never bothered to try to shoot anything other than snapshots in the mountains. I stumbled across this mini-doc about a quest to get one perfect image... skiers against a solar eclipse. It sounds easy until you see what's involved. Enjoy!
  24. A friend of mine busted a cable while we were in northern BC in a very remote area, last October. She trimmed the ends, then with a little assistance, she used a piece of electrical tape to attach the two ends. Once secure, she wrapped a second piece over the first and extended it further along the cables. Amazingly it held up for the rest of the week. When I teach photo workshops, I have a "10 Commandments of UW Photography" sheet. #1 is "O-rings first, Beer second"... #5 is "Sync cables are the root of all evil. Thou shalt always travel with a spare..." Just sayin'!
  25. Indeed... I always figure that the reason we don't get more visitors from afar, is that transitioning from tropical diving in a 3mm suit isn't easy. Or inexpensive. On the other hand, anyone who can dive in 200' of water that's barely above freezing can easily head south (and we do!)
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