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Whipauee last won the day on January 8

Whipauee had the most liked content!

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About Whipauee

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    Murfreesboro TN

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A7s3
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand

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  1. I've done a couple of dives with Sony a7s3 or a1 with a 90mm. Even with darn good buoyancy control and a balanced rig handheld keeper footage is in the in the range of a 1 sec out of a couple minutes and then, sometimes never. I learned to really lighten my grip on the housing to minimize to minimize muscle twitches. If I do macro or even quasi macro shots I try and shoot at 120fps which can have a nice feel when slowed down. Or if I have the a1 and my 24-70mm kit (Which is my go to arraignment) and a macro opportunity shows up I'll go to 8K and work it in post but its only 30fps so still needs to be steady with spot auto focus. I also rely on stabilization in my post environment which starts in FCPX. Someday I'll get on board with Resolve for working color and grain.
  2. Nauticam NA-RX100VII Pro Package (Inc. flexitray, right handle, two mounting balls, M14 vacuum valve, shutter extension) Used for approximately 50 dives. Thoroughly soaked an rinsed after each trip. Never been flooded. Polycarbonate window on housing back has minor scratches that I don’t see in the water. Spare O-rings Allen key Set Padded Travel Case for NA-RX100Vll Asking $1000, includes shipping insurance and transaction fees.
  3. Selling WWL-1 Package above for 900.00!
  4. I have an old airport international and a Tenba Photo/computer bag. I've pulled all the dividers out of the airport and Domke padded wrappers on everything. All components are broken down to smallest unit. I do put one body in the housing. Generally camera, lenses, computer and ipad go in the Tenba. Housing, ports, 4x Keldans go in the Airport. I also pack my reg and dive watch in this arraignment. My checked bags looks like I pulled it behind me on a gravel road but weights only 6lbs empty, I load it up with everything but a parachute to 49.5 lbs. I use a good scale. My international and Tenba packed out weigh 50lbs! But the airport has two wheels so I can look quite nonchalant getting thru the various airport stuff. By smiling and looking effortless will do you no harm avoiding closer scrutiny. I've air traveled all over the world in all sorts of planes, the international almost universally fit in the overhead. OK not the 15 seaters or pontoon planes but the gear was never in a hold on those occasions. The only time I was ever stopped was in Sydney and I had to check the international for weight, but it was packed assuming the worst and nothing happened. I have added a super lightweight photo vest with enormous pockets that is stowed on the outside of the International in case I run into someone having a bad day and no amount of smiles might correct.
  5. I have force fins, 3 pair. First pair at list price subsequent ones on ebay. Replaced straps with bungee straps. I use different sizes for various boots in colder water. I prefer just a dive sock and the fin. All the positives above are true for me. The exceptional features are small light weight for travel and so easy to take off. Thats a big deal to me at 70 and after a hour in the water not doing much, my legs stiffen getting back on a boat. You can turn on a dime with these fins, great for maneuvering for the best angle and light on a creature. Very easy to frog kick, seems like a completely natural move. Been in some currents not much of an issue. and on a emergency diver recall I beat 2, 26 yr olds and a 50 yr old back to the ladder.
  6. I put a piece of white tape from Home depot on a fin. That was OK, I prefer to use a grey card (X-rite color checker w/Neutral Grey) at depth and multiple times when profile changes. Have a thin bungee cord thru the card and can slip on wrist or secure to BC when I'm done white balancing and shooting the color pallet. I really haven't used the color pallet in post yet. I hear I could build a color profile based on the x-rite in Resolve. Maybe one day.
  7. It looks like on the a7s3 you can come close to what you’re asking for and one would hope the a1 as well. Start by Turning off touch monitor, Set camera on manual focus, Pick a focus area other than wide, Use the multi selector button to move your focus point, finally press the AF-On button to acquire subject focus. Its a good technique if you’re in lower light conditions where focus might wander. I’m still becoming one with these cameras so I have auto focus set to wide and use a f14 - f22 aperture range and 90% of the shots are in focus. I’ll start opening up the aperture on the next dives to allow for more ambient light shooting. Might need to use this manual focus technique. I think you could program a function button to toggle between auto and manual focus.
  8. Good stable shots when shooting video is a significant factor for a shot to be a keeper. The current crop of Sony cameras have darn good , WB and AF tracking. I use both the a7s3 and the a1 underwater and for birds in flight. I personally have evolved from a Sony RX100 VII in a Nauticam housing to current rigs for multiple reasons but one was the challenge of creating good buoyancy and trim, the smaller config's sinks like a rock. My current rigs achieve about 45 grams of negative buoyancy in fresh water and I’m working to fine tune even this negative number which is still ever so slightly negative in the ocean. It is so much more fun to shoot with a reasonable balanced and stable rig. Curious to me is the shooting for birds in flight and the relative difficulty of shooting burst stills compared to full motion video. The full motion attempts are so much more difficult it has amazed me. I have fluid heads, monopods, gimbals and none of it is of value when the wildlife is unpredictable and fast moving. I’m diving again next week and plan to hone my skills with a Sony 90mm lens. Not specifically on true macro but the intermediate setting to capture fish behavior from a non intimidating distance to the fish. My use of wide-angle close ups only go so far and I am trying to shoot smaller and faster fish. All basically hand held. I'll also try and move back to ambient lighting if conditions permit. Again not to disturb the fish, and yes I do hold my breath, and have looked into an tested CCR's. The Sony Catalyst software does look interesting and may take on that challenge to my post workflow one day but maybe not anytime soon.
  9. Dave, I have shot with the a7s3 and WWL-1 last fall. I used a 35mm prime. My goals are different than yours in that I shoot fish portraits and coral. Glad to know there is an option with the Sony kit lens (28-60) I did a quick scan of the lens features and the one that requires additional investigation is the word “Retraction” That may require close evaluation of the flat port you use that a WWL can attach to and give you the zoom range. I have a Nauticam solution. Another thought is the speed and accuracy of the kit lens, These new Sony Mirrorless focus systems are amazing and a big help me locking on to a moving target. I moved away from the WWL-1 solution because wide angle shots are not my preference but a point worthy of consideration is the WWL can throw off the buoyancy/balance of your kit. Its heavy and the buoyancy collar was ok but not perfect. Maybe the WWL-1B collar is better, don’t know. Again I have become a big fan of a balanced rig and I went to a dome solution for the 16mm-35mm lens and added air for buoyancy. I think the travel weight difference is negligible when you add in the port extensions and adaptors. That being said, a housing with the small lens and WWL is way more compact in the water than a dome solution. Good Luck.
  10. Thani, Love your piece. Color, composition and focus. You are very good at this craft. I get the low visibility challenge but in many shots it works to diffuse the light nicely. Seems I should craft-up to document a changing world. Simple question, Did you White Balance for nearly every scene change?
  11. rgilkes, What a good point about the a1, I just change the Auto Temp setting to High, The default is set to Standard. I then checked my a7s3 and it is /was set to standard but I changed it to high as well. Of note the a7s3 in standard temp mode never showed the temp warning where the a1 did. I'll be curious to see how that adjustment will show or not show the temp warning on my next set of dives. July 4th out of Miami to the Bahamas on the Juliet Sailing liveaboard. Note to self: Take a dang wrist slate down and after white balance shoot slate with particulars of that dives set up. I can figure lot out with the limited metadata in FCPX for video, but its not quite like the metadata you get shooting stills and reviewing in Capture 1. After 25 dives things can get a bit jumbled.
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