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Whipauee last won the day on January 8

Whipauee had the most liked content!

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About Whipauee

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    Murfreesboro TN

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A7s3
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  1. Selling WWL-1 Package above for 900.00!
  2. I have an old airport international and a Tenba Photo/computer bag. I've pulled all the dividers out of the airport and Domke padded wrappers on everything. All components are broken down to smallest unit. I do put one body in the housing. Generally camera, lenses, computer and ipad go in the Tenba. Housing, ports, 4x Keldans go in the Airport. I also pack my reg and dive watch in this arraignment. My checked bags looks like I pulled it behind me on a gravel road but weights only 6lbs empty, I load it up with everything but a parachute to 49.5 lbs. I use a good scale. My international and Tenba packed out weigh 50lbs! But the airport has two wheels so I can look quite nonchalant getting thru the various airport stuff. By smiling and looking effortless will do you no harm avoiding closer scrutiny. I've air traveled all over the world in all sorts of planes, the international almost universally fit in the overhead. OK not the 15 seaters or pontoon planes but the gear was never in a hold on those occasions. The only time I was ever stopped was in Sydney and I had to check the international for weight, but it was packed assuming the worst and nothing happened. I have added a super lightweight photo vest with enormous pockets that is stowed on the outside of the International in case I run into someone having a bad day and no amount of smiles might correct.
  3. I have force fins, 3 pair. First pair at list price subsequent ones on ebay. Replaced straps with bungee straps. I use different sizes for various boots in colder water. I prefer just a dive sock and the fin. All the positives above are true for me. The exceptional features are small light weight for travel and so easy to take off. Thats a big deal to me at 70 and after a hour in the water not doing much, my legs stiffen getting back on a boat. You can turn on a dime with these fins, great for maneuvering for the best angle and light on a creature. Very easy to frog kick, seems like a completely natural move. Been in some currents not much of an issue. and on a emergency diver recall I beat 2, 26 yr olds and a 50 yr old back to the ladder.
  4. I put a piece of white tape from Home depot on a fin. That was OK, I prefer to use a grey card (X-rite color checker w/Neutral Grey) at depth and multiple times when profile changes. Have a thin bungee cord thru the card and can slip on wrist or secure to BC when I'm done white balancing and shooting the color pallet. I really haven't used the color pallet in post yet. I hear I could build a color profile based on the x-rite in Resolve. Maybe one day.
  5. It looks like on the a7s3 you can come close to what you’re asking for and one would hope the a1 as well. Start by Turning off touch monitor, Set camera on manual focus, Pick a focus area other than wide, Use the multi selector button to move your focus point, finally press the AF-On button to acquire subject focus. Its a good technique if you’re in lower light conditions where focus might wander. I’m still becoming one with these cameras so I have auto focus set to wide and use a f14 - f22 aperture range and 90% of the shots are in focus. I’ll start opening up the aperture on the next dives to allow for more ambient light shooting. Might need to use this manual focus technique. I think you could program a function button to toggle between auto and manual focus.
  6. Good stable shots when shooting video is a significant factor for a shot to be a keeper. The current crop of Sony cameras have darn good , WB and AF tracking. I use both the a7s3 and the a1 underwater and for birds in flight. I personally have evolved from a Sony RX100 VII in a Nauticam housing to current rigs for multiple reasons but one was the challenge of creating good buoyancy and trim, the smaller config's sinks like a rock. My current rigs achieve about 45 grams of negative buoyancy in fresh water and I’m working to fine tune even this negative number which is still ever so slightly negative in the ocean. It is so much more fun to shoot with a reasonable balanced and stable rig. Curious to me is the shooting for birds in flight and the relative difficulty of shooting burst stills compared to full motion video. The full motion attempts are so much more difficult it has amazed me. I have fluid heads, monopods, gimbals and none of it is of value when the wildlife is unpredictable and fast moving. I’m diving again next week and plan to hone my skills with a Sony 90mm lens. Not specifically on true macro but the intermediate setting to capture fish behavior from a non intimidating distance to the fish. My use of wide-angle close ups only go so far and I am trying to shoot smaller and faster fish. All basically hand held. I'll also try and move back to ambient lighting if conditions permit. Again not to disturb the fish, and yes I do hold my breath, and have looked into an tested CCR's. The Sony Catalyst software does look interesting and may take on that challenge to my post workflow one day but maybe not anytime soon.
  7. Dave, I have shot with the a7s3 and WWL-1 last fall. I used a 35mm prime. My goals are different than yours in that I shoot fish portraits and coral. Glad to know there is an option with the Sony kit lens (28-60) I did a quick scan of the lens features and the one that requires additional investigation is the word “Retraction” That may require close evaluation of the flat port you use that a WWL can attach to and give you the zoom range. I have a Nauticam solution. Another thought is the speed and accuracy of the kit lens, These new Sony Mirrorless focus systems are amazing and a big help me locking on to a moving target. I moved away from the WWL-1 solution because wide angle shots are not my preference but a point worthy of consideration is the WWL can throw off the buoyancy/balance of your kit. Its heavy and the buoyancy collar was ok but not perfect. Maybe the WWL-1B collar is better, don’t know. Again I have become a big fan of a balanced rig and I went to a dome solution for the 16mm-35mm lens and added air for buoyancy. I think the travel weight difference is negligible when you add in the port extensions and adaptors. That being said, a housing with the small lens and WWL is way more compact in the water than a dome solution. Good Luck.
  8. Thani, Love your piece. Color, composition and focus. You are very good at this craft. I get the low visibility challenge but in many shots it works to diffuse the light nicely. Seems I should craft-up to document a changing world. Simple question, Did you White Balance for nearly every scene change?
  9. rgilkes, What a good point about the a1, I just change the Auto Temp setting to High, The default is set to Standard. I then checked my a7s3 and it is /was set to standard but I changed it to high as well. Of note the a7s3 in standard temp mode never showed the temp warning where the a1 did. I'll be curious to see how that adjustment will show or not show the temp warning on my next set of dives. July 4th out of Miami to the Bahamas on the Juliet Sailing liveaboard. Note to self: Take a dang wrist slate down and after white balance shoot slate with particulars of that dives set up. I can figure lot out with the limited metadata in FCPX for video, but its not quite like the metadata you get shooting stills and reviewing in Capture 1. After 25 dives things can get a bit jumbled.
  10. Wira, My solution is a bit of a Rube Goldberg. Starts with a N100 to N120 Port Adaptor, then a Extension ring 60, and last a piece that adapts the Nauticam system to a subal system that allows me to use my Subal 1800 Dome. I talked with Phil at Nauticam in Ft Lauderdale and he first suggested a Extension ring 70. I pointed out the the Nauticam to Subal adaptor was about 10mm so we decided on the 60. The rest of the setup included 2 Keldan 4X video lights and 2 Nauticam 70x250mmm Carbon Fiber floats. This was targeted to use the Sony 16mm-35mm lens. The rig was near perfect in salt water. I tested in fresh water and when submerged it weight about a pound. In salt water a curious phenomena seemed to take place, at the surface down to 10 feet the rig was slightly positive, then at about 30 feet and 10 mins into a dive it would be neutral or slightly negative. System is vacuumed pumped as well. I have no Idea why that would be the case since nothing compresses, maybe temperature was an influence, who knows. After importing the footage shoot in SLog 3 Gamma 3 with AutoFocus, the results were rather good. Most everything was in focus using the wide auto focus setting. I have found that most effective when trying to shoot video of unpredictable movement. On import into FCPX I applied the Sony Camera LUT to the footage and on cursorily checking the parade waveform I suspect very little adjustment in Color correction will be necessary. Oh, and yea, White balance at shooting depth with a Keldan grey card that flips over to shoot a small chip chart.
  11. Back from diving a week around Roatan. Have not imported or analyzed footage yet. but the a1 seemed to consistently display the overheat icon in the a7s3 housing while shooting clips underwater. The a1 never did shut down.
  12. That makes sense to me about the Nauticam a1 housing being capable of handling the a7s3 camera. I might have gone that route but the a1 was not available when I made my initial purchases. Still getting a feel for both cameras topside but I'm leaning to the a7s3 underwater because of the large sensor and low light gathering capabilities. I'll still use external light mostly for color. It will be tempting to take the a1 down but there is so much to get comfortable with for many dives that I honestly hope to resist for at least awhile. Thank goodness both these bodies us the same menuing systems so thats becoming pretty automatic when I want to make a setting change. I have settled on Slog3 gamma3 as the color profile. Still not sure about the ETTR philosophy to avoid noise in the dark areas, which has merit UW. Topside using the Same LUTs in both cameras and sequentially white balancing them the color space looks to be nicely matched.
  13. A bit of news, I just picked up a Sony a1 and all the buttons work in the controls work a7s3 Nauticam Housing. Except for the controls on the left top for Still frame rate and focus, Continuous, Single and DMF and Manual.I got the a1 for surface work not UW but just tried it for fun and was soo surprised. The same experiment with the a7r4 was not as successful in the Nauticam housing. I was on the way to test the a7s3 with 16-35mm in a 180 dome (Nauticam) for balance and buoyancy in this configuration. Bad weather prevented a real field test. But this configuration balances better than the WWL-1 with a flat port and 35mm prime in fresh water IMHO. I'm back in salt water in 2 weeks, was hoping to narrow down my flying travel field kit but maybe I'll take everything! UGH!
  14. I have the Sony a7s3/Nauticam housing plus Keldan 4x lights. I really love it. Finished my first UW field shoot edit recently. Took a while to edit because I shot in 3 codecs (Slog 3, HGL3 and no profile) And that was a challenge in post for cc. I also did not have the CF express card which can encode in camera a XAVC S I 4K codec which does playback nicely without proxies in post. So work flow is faster and simpler on my old 2013 MacPro. My next dive in 2 weeks will use the CF express card and I'll shot in SLog 3, Cine gamma3, Also a new lens configuration. I can say that shooting Natural light, looks OK if you white balance and it is easy. I configured the C4 button, on the lower right back, so I could hold a grey card in my left hand and WB with my right AND hold the housing. But I prefer a least a bit of light on the subjects for some color pop. So here is a link to my first a7s3 edit. Youtube AdventureArtists - Lucayan Archipelago https://youtu.be/RyJvsaV2MeU
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