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Patric_Ocean

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Everything posted by Patric_Ocean

  1. Does anyone know if the Toslink cable that was mentioned in the beginning has a high enough transmission rate for LED triggers? (Or similar transmission rate like original cables, for example from Inon?) If not, does anyone have a link to buy 613 core cable by the metre?
  2. Roatan. Let me know when you get here. The Bay Islands still do not have any reported virus-cases.
  3. I tried to trigger it with sync cables (only fiber optic, not 5-pin), different cameras, different modes and another flash. In my last tries I couldn't get it to fire at all but the ready light was always on. The flash-output control knob never did anything so I decided to open it to look at the thing. When I read 330V on the capacitor I decided to leave it. There is also corrosion inside the hosuing, so I think it's done. I'm in Honduras, you can have it but you need to pick it up. lol.
  4. The strobe says YS-90 AUTO and then smaller: TTL/AUTO STROBE Duo. Yes I agree that it should not do TTL as an optical slave but I should be able to manually set / change the flash output using the dial that goes from 2 to 22?! Whatever I set it to, the output is the same. No matter if I'm on Auto 1 or Auto 2. On TTL it doesn't fire at all (and of course it should not, according to the manual).
  5. I used the setup on several dives and snorkels now, macro where I don't extend the arm(s) much as well as wide angle with the strobes far out which sometimes pulls a bit on the cable. There was consistent firing, can't report any problems.
  6. I received a YS90 Duo that I cleaned up (the contacts showed some corrosion) and tried. It turns on, I can fire it reliably but not the way it's intended: The idea is to pass it on to someone who uses a TG-6, so I tried with that camera, using a fiber optic cable. According to the manual it has a switch: Auto 2, Auto 1 and TTL, then it has another switch for Slave ON/OFF and a third switch for the output power. Slave is clear: ON. Auto 2 should be for cameras with preflash, Auto 1 for cameras without preflash. With the TG-6 it worked on both but the correct one would be Auto 1 since I don't use preflash. Now when it's on Auto 1, I can only fire 1 flash. After that nothing happens, even when the ready light is on. If I flick the switch back to Auto 2 or OFF and back to Auto 1, I can flash again. Any idea if I do something wrong? On Auto 2 it kept flashing but that's not the right mode. Besides that the flash output seems always the same, no matter what I set on the strobe. ( I tried this with another camera in manual mode to check if the exposure changes and could not see a difference). Any thoughts? Am I doing something wrong or is the strobe broken? Wouldn't be surprised, it came out of a long storage from a diveshop that moved.
  7. Just posting an update. I got the replacement cables today (It took a while because I live on an island, Nimar was very quick at sending them with DHL and they did not charge me anything for the replacements nor shipping). Visually I could not tell a difference to the other cables but as soon as I plugged them in, both strobes fired every single time I triggered. I pulled a bit, twisted the adapter and rotated to various orientations, no matter what I did, consistent firing of both strobes. Against what I feared, their design of trigger and single optical bulkhead with double optical adapter works. Pavel (here in the forum) was right about the quality of the cables and Nimar was also right about identifying the issue and sending me replacement ones. Can't wait to jump in the water with two firing strobes tomorrow.
  8. I got a Nimar housing for the RP a few weeks ago. I'm very happy about it. I also posted about the strobe issues but it turned out that their Inon supplier send them bad quality cables. New ones are on the way free of charge. The support from Nimar was very good so far, before buying, while shipping and also afterwards to find the strobe issue. The housing was basically ready to go and it is ergonomic. I also looked at ikelite vs Nimar and went with Nimar in the end, because of recommendations of friends, for price reasons and also since their support was way better than ikelite when I asked questions. It's ergonomic and you don't need to buy every single piece extra (like a trigger extension for the shutter or a handle for the right side as an example). They try to be compatible with everything else that is out on the market, something that ikelite tries to make sure you get the whole set from them, including cables and strobes. Also get the vacuum system, it's worth it. It seems to me that the picture you posted is of the "Pro" series of Nimar. I could not find it anymore on their website but they have the white housing for the R and the RA. I assume that the pro -series is of a higher quality but the white housings are very good and I actually prefer a clear backplate so I can see the o-ring.
  9. I was in touch with Nimar and it seems that Inon Italy shipped low quality cables. New ones are on the way to me. I found one single older cable and with that I can at least trigger one strobe. Seems like Pavel was right with the quality of the cable...
  10. Hello Pavel Thank you for your reply. Nimar sold me the complete package and also said that it has been tested with those strobes and dual cables (using the adapter) which worked fine. I could not find what type of cable (or how many strands) it is but I would assume that by purchasing the original INON cable I should be high quality? I tried to hold one single cable (and also both close together) manually in the middle position and still could not trigger the strobes. For option 2, I don't see a place to install a second optical bulkhead on that housing, maybe I should have used a 5-pin system straight away.
  11. Thank you Chris I tried rotating the plug and the result is probably one flash out of 20 tries, not reproduceable and then only one of the strobes fires. I also tried just holding a cable in place by hand, same result, not very reproducable and rarely in the right position to trigger the strobe. I'll have to check if I have a 1 cable connector today to try how that goes. Is trimming the cable safe? I guess I would use a razorblade or something similar that is new and sharp. Since I bought the cables together, in case that there was a problem during production, they would most likely be from the same batch. I hope to try other cables in the next days.
  12. Good evening. I have an issue with my new photography gear. I'll explain it here written but I also made a video for those who prefer not to read. The whole setup is new and the batteries are charged. I'm using a Canon RP in a Nimar housing. I have a flash trigger sitting in the hot shoe (battery is new as far as I know). I had to stick the LED to the optical bulkhead but I made sure that the LED sits right in the middle of it. The optical bulkhead was already installed by Nimar. It was delivered with a small adapter to put two cables at the same time. I am using new Inon fiber optic cables and 2 Inon Z330 strobes. Here is what I tested (and documented in the video): When the shutter is actuated the LED Flash sync works every single time, a quick red light is emitted. (I confirmed with Nimar that the LED is indeed red and it's not a sign of low battery or similar). When I hold the strobe about 10 cm close to the optical bulkhead this little LED is strong enough to trigger it. I did this to make sure that the camera & strobe are in the right mode to fire. Both strobes work with this test. When I connect the fiber optic cables to the bulkhead and look at the ends, I can see the red light every time I click the shutter. I assume that with these steps I show that the camera, the flash sync, the cables and the strobes all reliably work. Now that I put everything together the strobes don't fire. My assumption is that the cables don't carry enough light to trigger the strobes? They seem clean and are original cables, so I assume good quality. Do I need to cut the tip off or something? I used them like I got them. They don't have any kinks or other visible issues. Any recommendations on how to proceed? Do my tests clearly define the cables as the problem or did I miss something? Is there a way to adjust the sensitivity of the light sensor of the strobes? Here is the link to the video: Thanks in advance for any help. Patric
  13. Ok thank you very much. Will try to find a collector, that's better than a landfill.
  14. I found this in a box I got from a friend. What is it and does anybody still use it? (or want it?) Not sure how it works. Would like to learn before throwing in the bin.
  15. That is wonderful, thank you for taking your time to respond. I assume that without this adapter I can not use TTL? Also not with the electronic sync cords? The person at Nimar said that since the camera is new that is not yet possible without the adapter you offer. (I hope I understood that correct) Patric
  16. Hello Pavel I'm about to get a NIMAR housing for the Canon RP. I saw part number 16024 from UWTechnics, does that work with the RP or just the R? The housing seems different, the R has dual fiber optical plugs while the RP housing only has one. Regards Patric
  17. There is not much new information but there is some and a picture: https://www.ikelite.com/blogs/features/dema-show-2019-new-product-coverage In short: - They say brighter, wider and smaller. - Will be compatible with existing battery packs, sync cords, and TTL converters. - Coming in early-to-mid-2020 I'm a bit surprised that there is nothing about weight, I'm sure they would try to go lighter? I guess I'll wait for those to be available.
  18. As an update, I was able to order a set of o-rings (not including the main o-rings) from Fantasea to replace on every button. I hope to receive it soon so I can try this repair and hopefully take underwater pictures soon again.
  19. Hello everyone I heard a rumour, by now about three times from different sources (incl. Ikelite), that Ikelite is working on a new strobe project. Does anybody know more about it? At least a timeframe, when to expect any official information? I'm in the market for new strobes but if it's a reasonable waiting time, then I'll wait. One rumour said that they will be top of the line, comparable to other manufacturers but smaller and lighter than the DS161... My alternative would be the Inon Z330. Thoughts? Patric
  20. Thanks for your replies. So far I exchanged both o-rings of the door for new ones, and checked everything I could see without disasembling. No luck... I contacted Fantasea, no response yet, I do hope to get the size of the o-rings and replace them on each button. Will keep you updated.
  21. Hello Recently my Fantasea FG16 housing started to leak. As for now it seems that the camera is fine (but it will probably corrode and die at some point). I cleaned and rinsed the housing, checked the two o-rings and took the housing alone on a check dive (with some weight and paper inside it). It was leaking again but I am not able to tell where or how. What would be a good way to find out or do you have any suggestions on how to proceed with this? How to find the leak? Thank you.
  22. Yes that is of course correct. I wanted to say that is the distance you need for the 2:1 magnification and that of course would be from the sensor plane.
  23. Thank you everybody for the replies. It seems to be a specialty lens so I guess for now it's not worth it for me. The aperture can be controlled by the camera, not for all mounts but for Canon definitely. The lens does get a bit dark when zoomed very closely, at least that's what one of the video reviews shows. The 2:1 working distance is 24.8cm so about 5cm closer than the Canon 100mm macro with 1:1. I expect the DOF to be around half a mm or so. That would be very tricky to get right. Any tips on how to calculate that properly? I saw some DOF calculators but I plan on getting the Canon RP and they don't list it. Based on the discussion I'll get the Canon 100mm and since the Laowa is not crazy expensive get one when I'm more familiar with everything.
  24. Venus Optics came out with a new macro lens, the 100mm macro with a 2:1 magnification. I was wondering how difficult it is to use a lens like that? I read one (land-based) review where they said a tripod is needed. I read another report that showed examples of hand-held pictures. Now I'm confused. For those who don't know the lens here a quick introduction: Available for Sony, Nikon and Canon. 100mm focal length Manual Focus only Min. focusing distance: 24.7cm (for the 2x magnification) Price: 449 USD. Here is a link from the manufacturer: https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-100mm-f-2-8-2x-macro-apo/ Anybody around that uses this lens? Anybody aware of a housing / port that the lens fits in and has a gear sleeve for the manual focus? Does it even make sense to try or is 2:1 magnification too difficult to shoot handheld underwater? I'm debating if I should try that or go with the 100mm macro 1:1 from Canon. Looking forward to hear opinions and facts!
  25. I'm not an owner but planning to get a Nimar housing for my next camera. I do know 2 people who use their housings, one a very good experienced photographer and the other is a professional. It seems that they can be trusted.
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