Lewis88

I am interested in this as well. I print parts for mounts, lighting parts, clips, etc. but I'm not comfortable printing anything pressure bearing from any of my printers at home or work (Ender 3, Form 3, Makerbot Method X). I just worry about them catastrophically failing and me losing my rig. I have access to a beefy mill, but lack the milling expertise to make my own aluminum adapters.

Regardless, UWT doesn't have a D3 profile yet, correct?

Please report back!

Pm sent

He likely assumed you wanted a stateside supplier. I also just noticed that the retras are compatible with my sturtle, and does HSS! Very interesting.

You can buy directly from TRT, and they will accept returns within 14 days of receipt, less shipping. Shipping from Europe is quick. Terms and Conditions (trt-electronics.com) I already own the Turtle, so adding the UWT to retras, plus a bulkhead, double sync cable, etc adds more complexity and cost. But it's food for thought. I haven't even had a chance to Dive my Ys-110a's on my a6100 with sturtle. last dives I did were with my S95 in 2019. Darn covid.

Ah darn, I was hoping a verdict for TRT and the YS-03 would be reached. If you were closer than VA, I was going to see if we could meet to test the S-turtle and YS-D3 setup. The D3's are at the top of my list to replace my YS-110a's.

Look into the Seafrogs housing

Which wired TTL converter would you use? The UW Technics TTL converter supports wired, but if it doesn't support the D3's via fiber, will it support via wired?

I also am using a S-turtle, but can you tell me more about the mobile app? I've only seen ability to control it via usb and windows

I am using an S-turtle with my A6100, and using $40 613 core cables from amazon. Fires my Ys-110's great. I don't have D3's to try.

I use an MC-11. I got it used for $100, and updated it via Sigma's software, and it's flawless.

The crop factor on the 8-15 FF lens on APS-C makes it not a common or desirable lens option. I shoot the 10-17 with a Sigma MC-11 on an A6100.

Per the specs, it's 300 full power flashes. You likely will be far under full power, so I imagine they will last a full day easily.

Ugh, this is on the top of the destination list when the world reopens.

Would you split out the 10-18?

https://www.aditech-uw.com/en/shop/1133-10bar-pa-hs-pg.html But honestly, the cheaper option is to buy an extension cable and disassembly/cut off the other end. https://www.amazon.com/Pixel-Off-Camera-Flash-Cable-580EX/dp/B003GR6IUK/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=3P7M56G1HH9XZ&dchild=1&keywords=hotshoe+extension+cable&qid=1606241425&sprefix=hotshoe+extension+%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQUkZRWU5MUUlSVUMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4NDg3NTkxOVFTSkE0VFdMOVEzJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4ODQzNDkxWkpLVkdJMzU0RkZFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Maybe try some close focus wide angle with one as the main subject. Different lighting?

Your mileage may vary. Basically, OP can't tell anything that would affect photos, but someone else may notice something.

You bet! Send me a message with your email and I'll send the .sldprt files and the .stls of my current revs. The biggest issue is avoiding the MC-11 lens release buttons, especially since the port throat for the seafrogs housing is very tight.

I'm working on a 3d printed seafrogs version for the 10-17 on a Sigma MC-11. I've printed a few revisions so far but still am not completely happy with it, but it's allowing me to make a gear that will never be made otherwise.

He said they were spoken for before you posted. Not sure what you're even complaining about.

Same for me. Won't ever dive without it. Hope I never need it.

Yep, I get plastic tipped ones. The orings actually do most of the gripping, the set screws are just snugged. @tobyone I'm using Sunlu PLA+. I like that it prints very well for me, and is less brittle than regular PLA.

I also am doing the same for my seafrogs housing. I'm on iteration 6 for my tokina, and adding some orings and set screws to secure it to the lens.