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Posts posted by Lewis88

  1. 15 hours ago, DorsetBunkers said:

    Ah, sorry mate, just realised I've messaged you on scubaboard too, please ignore that one. That's a shame, was really wondering how practical it was underwater, yeah C-19 has a lot to answer for! Glad to hear the 10-17mm works on the mc-11 though.

    Hopefully we can all get back in soon.

    No worries! I was wondering if you were the same person! 

    I'll answer your zoom gear question from SB. There is no native zoom gear. I have been working on a design for a 3d printed zoom gear, and have gone through many revisions. I think I finally have one that will work, but I need to order some hardware and then test topside. 

    Now that I plan to upgrade to Nauticam, I have kinda stopped development on the gear for now. Here is the last update: Sea Frogs Salted Line A6XXX - Zoom Gears | ScubaBoard

    • Like 1

  2. 20 hours ago, DorsetBunkers said:

    Oh really? That's interesting, do you mind me asking what housing/dome you have it in?

    Also, any chance you could share some pics you've taken with it?

    Thanks, Jon

    Currently in a Seafrogs housing with a 6" dome, Likely moving to Nauticam with their 4.33" dome.

    Haven't had the chance to dive it yet though (damn pandemic). 

    So only pics I have are topside. I've owned this lens for a long time and it shoots on my A6100/MC11 as it does on a native Canon DSLR.

    • Like 1

  3. 17 hours ago, DorsetBunkers said:

    Not wanting to hijack the post, but I'd not heard of anyone successfully running the Tokina 10-17mm on the mc-11 adapter?

    I'm looking to mount that lens on my sony a6000 but all the successful pairings with the sony mount I have found seemed to use the metabones adapter? (Would love to be corrected on this).


    I use my MC-11 with a Tokina 10-17 on a Sony A6100. Works perfectly.

    • Like 1

  4. 7 hours ago, Martin.Broen said:

    Curious on which 3D printer you use and if you do any treatment to the surface to guarantee is watertight over time?

    I personally use a Markforged with the Onyx material (micro carbon fiber filled nylon) for my underwater adaptations, as while nylon is not ideal for underwater the added carbon makes it very resistant, but I'm not doing parts that compromise the seal of the camera either

    I am interested in this as well. I print parts for mounts, lighting parts, clips, etc. but I'm not comfortable printing anything pressure bearing from any of my printers at home or work (Ender 3, Form 3, Makerbot Method X). I just worry about them catastrophically failing and me losing my rig. 

    I have access to a beefy mill, but lack the milling expertise to make my own aluminum adapters.

  5. 1 minute ago, stuartv said:


    Well, that's interesting. I emailed back and forth with Balazs about where to buy from. I told him I didn't want to buy from BS because of no refunds. He suggested Bluewater, but never mentioned ordering it directly from their website.

    If you get the Retras, you could/would still trigger them with f/o. No need for the electronic cable, etc.. And since you own the Turtle already, sure, stick with that.

    So, to replace your YS-110as, you would only need to buy the Retras, and nothing else.


    He likely assumed you wanted a stateside supplier. I also just noticed that the retras are compatible with my sturtle, and does HSS! Very interesting.

  6. 15 minutes ago, stuartv said:

    If you find a source to buy an S-Turtle TTL for Sony mirrorless that offers refunds, let me know and I'll probably order it. I would definitely not mind being able to keep and use the YS-D3s.

    You can buy directly from TRT, and they will accept returns within 14 days of receipt, less shipping. Shipping from Europe is quick.

    Terms and Conditions (trt-electronics.com)

    13 minutes ago, stuartv said:

    ps. If you're looking at paying normal, retail price for the YS-D3s, I would say to seriously consider spending just a little more and getting the Retra Pros (and the UWT trigger). I only bought the YS-D3s because I got them at Key Man pricing. Otherwise, I feel like they are just way too much trouble.

    I already own the Turtle, so adding the UWT to retras, plus a bulkhead, double sync cable, etc adds more complexity and cost. But it's food for thought. 


    I haven't even had a chance to Dive my Ys-110a's on my a6100 with sturtle. last dives I did were with my S95 in 2019. Darn covid.

  7. 2 minutes ago, stuartv said:


    For electronic triggering, my plan would be to stick with the UWT trigger I have and just change it over from the LEDs to their electronic bulkhead.

    However, on further reflection, I have decided to sell the YS-D3s to a buddy and stick with my Z240s and f/o triggering for now.

    I do believe that electronic triggering would work for the UWT to trigger the YS-D3s (though that is really just an educated guess, at this point). But, the UWT does not have a profile built in for the YS-D3, so it would (should) work fine for shooting in Manual, but who knows how well it would work for TTL, since it would have to be set to some other model of strobe's profile.

    Ah darn, I was hoping a verdict for TRT and the YS-03 would be reached.

    If you were closer than VA, I was going to see if we could meet to test the S-turtle and YS-D3 setup. The D3's are at the top of my list to replace my YS-110a's.

  8. On 1/19/2021 at 8:13 PM, imacro said:

    How is the AF of the SEL90mm lens UW? The Backscatter sales guy said the lens is quite slow. Also what housing do you guys use? The Nauticam is quite expensive, the ports for the lens alone is over $1k. Fantasea has discontinued their housing for A6400. Ikelite doesnt have port allowing screw on macro wet lens for 16-50mm that I want to start out first

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Look into the Seafrogs housing

  9. On 1/22/2021 at 11:33 AM, stuartv said:

    If those f/o cables don't work, then I'll probably go ahead and ante up to changing over to electronic. Which will actually be less expensive than what the Turtle trigger cost.

    Which wired TTL converter would you use? The UW Technics TTL converter supports wired, but if it doesn't support the D3's via fiber, will it support via wired?


  10. 18 hours ago, jmark18 said:

    Any chance you could send me the stl to play with. The internal dimensions would be the same no matter what the exterior looks like.. The next step for me would be somehow duplicating the external to be like the dimensions of something like the zoom gear I have for my 16-55 lens and cut grooves internally to get it to hold onto the lens.I guess that means I have to learn how to use cad software fast.probably not something that is commercially viable ;)


    You bet! Send me a message with your email and I'll send the .sldprt files and the .stls of my current revs. The biggest issue is avoiding the MC-11 lens release buttons, especially since the port throat for the seafrogs housing is very tight.

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