Posts posted by Lewis88
@Pavel Kolpakov Do you know if the UW Technics TTL converter for Sony A6xxxx cameras in a Seafrogs housing supports the YS-110a strobes? I only see YS-D1 and above listed.
On 7/17/2020 at 6:56 AM, divengolf said:
just watched the video on strobe triggering options. You and Alex made a point of mentioning the expense involved buying backup cables as spares. There have been a few recent threads on WP about buying FO cable material directly and fabricating spares at a fraction of the cost of those sold by the strobe manufacturers. Understand that may be a sensitive subject given the support that manufacturers provide to WP, but for us FO users this is a very inexpensive way to carry spare cables.
just my. 2 psi worth.
PS > LOVE the live WP series. Only way to “get wet “ these days.
I switched to getting my FO cables from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCGWLBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For $25, I can get 2-3 cables for the price of a single "branded" cable and they work identically.
You already have a previous topic on this, in which your price was $425.
On 6/28/2020 at 12:55 PM, domromer said:
Why couldn't the manual just have said that? Thank you, that was helpful and straightforward.
In my experience ranging from underwater camera gear to million dollar molding machines, translations from Japanese to English are always bad.
Seafrogs salted line.
I currently shoot an S95 in a FIX Housing, Pair of YS-110's, wet fisheye lens, etc. I am a vacation diver, logging 10-50 dives a year depending on how many trips we go on, but I have also been considering an upgrade. I originally started looking at the high end all in ones, but most of the have removed the hot shoe. I am always frustrated by the internal strobe recharge time, so a hot shoe for an external TTL converter is a must.
The pandemic put my purchase on hold, but I ended up settling on a Sony A6100, in a Sea Frogs Salted Line housing with a dome and macro port, a sony 10-18 and sony 50mm macro. I would add the UWtechnics TTL converter, as well as the compact Leak Sentinel vacuum/leak system. All in cost in the ~1500-2k USD range, but possible to do better if you can find deals on the lenses.
This is about strobes, but since strobes are 40k lumens or more, I think it applies to lights as well.
Could always go with a SeaFrogs Salted Line housing. It will save you big money compared to nauticam.
Personally, I don't put much weight behind articles written by a manufacturer. Independent reviews are what you should be looking for.
Also you're comparing a DLSR to a high end point and shoot, which have entirely different price points, use cases, pro and cons, etc.
With new units selling for $630 shipped with a warranty, your price of $566 plus shipping may be putting buyers off. Just an FYI.
From the rules:Quote
However 'bumping' or adding replies to keep the thread current is allowed once a week.
I've started using my work 3d printer to create custom mount parts for my rig. Now I'm looking at getting one for home to mess around with.
On 9/28/2019 at 6:37 PM, ianmarsh said:
I actually looked at it with a dissecting microscope.. no joy. I am guessing it is NOT Molex, perhaps something European.
The only marking on it was an L which seems to indicate the side and a 6 indicating the number of pins.
I will pick Pavels brains at UW Technics, since it mates with a connector on his TTL board.
Likely that's a Pin 1 and Pin 6 identifier, which is common.
If the mating connector is just a strip of pins, you may be able to measure their pin size and pitch, and find a compatible connector/terminal setup.
Look for any tiny markings or writing molded into the connector. I used to work for Molex, and all our connectors had the part number molded into them, but it can be REALLY tiny.
DEMA is November 13-16, so I would imagine they would release any new product then.
I'm VERY interested in just the housing, camera, and vacuum port. Already have a tray, strobes, and cables.
Are you willing to separate the system?
On 8/25/2019 at 3:20 PM, pbalves said:
The WA you won’t use, but a macro lens is usable.
With that in mind, if you want now a macro lens, I wold stick to a M67 one. For your later system it is easy to use with a flip adapter, solving the issue of easiness of on/off underwater.
You're likely right, I would use it on a flip holder with a macro lens.
Well, since the bayonet mount is out, I'm now looking at the divervision magnetic mounting system. http://www.divervision.com/howshot-m67-magnetic-lens-mount-MG-M67.html?search=magnetic
This setup would be:
M52 lens port -> M52 to M67 step up ring -> M67 magnetic lens mount -> lens (either M67 native close up, or UWL-04 on a M67 to M52 step down ring).
Any issues with this and the UWL-04? Can't find a ton of reviews of this setup, but it looks like it would get me the quick connect capability of the bayonet mount without hampering image quality?
My only concern is lens security (not sure how secure these magnets actually are).
4 hours ago, Interceptor121 said:
Better to get a step up ring for a close up lens and leave the wide angle as is
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Any experience with the recsea 52mm flip lenses? Either the 2 or 3 lens?
trying to figure out the best option for macro
4 hours ago, pbalves said:
If you are thinking in replace/upgrade your system in 2 years, you should consider what you are going to get and have it in mind for anything you buy now, to protect your investment.
Next system will likely be mirror less without wet lenses so it’s a stopgap for now
On 8/24/2019 at 5:33 AM, Interceptor121 said:
The adapter to convert M67 to AD is not meant for wide angle lens and would significantly impair the image quality
I think you need to resort to an M67 close up lens or abandon the idea of wide and macro on the same lens unless you replace your wide angle lens with an Inon UWL-10028AD with dome that will work very well with your set up. Then you add an M67-ADF adapter an Inon AD28 to AD spacer and you can then use the UCL-165AD
That was my biggest concern about how the adapters would effect my UWL-04. Does it basically put too much water between the stock port and the rear of the wide lens? is it something that zooming in slightly could solve?
I’d like to add a close up lens but I don’t want to replace my wide lens at this point. System is 8 years old and will likely get replaced in the next 2 so I’m hoping to add something cheaply and if I can move away from the thread mount, I’d like to.
also have been considering the sea life super macro lens since it’s native M52, but it’s hard to find reviews for.
4 minutes ago, bill1946 said:
Nodal points are rarely mentioned, but are critical. Pictures work well.
I have no idea about how to even start calculating the nodal point of my current setup, and how it would change if I were to move to AD mount. Way above my knowledge level, and I lack significant information about the stackup of the all the adapters.
Hoping someone here might have some experience in what I'm thinking about doing before I purchase anything.
I have a Canon S95 in a Fisheye/FIX housing, FIX UWL-04 fisheye lens, dual YS-110a's, and SOLA 500 (see pic here: https://imgur.com/a/Sn7UioM). I've been looking to add a close up lens to my setup, and am looking at the INON UCL165. I also would like to convert from the M52 mount to a bayonet mount due to threaded mounts being a pain underwater.
I am looking at purchasing the following:
- Housing conversion - M52 to AD adapter: http://www.divervision.com/deeproof-ad-lens-adapter-for-m52-thread-housings-ADF-M52.html?search=ADF-M52
- Wide angle conversion - UWL-04 into M52->M67 step up ring into M67 to AD adapter http://www.divervision.com/10bar-m67-thread-adapter-for-inon-ad-mount-base-adm-f67?search=ADM-F67
- INON UCL-156AD close up lens
- 2x AD lens holders
In theory, all of this should work, but I'm unsure if I'm missing something regarding lens interference, vignetting, etc, especially with the wide angle lens.
Anyone do something similar or have any feedback on my plan?
TTL systems in underwater photo
in Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique
Thanks @Pavel Kolpakov
I will have to go with the TRT electronics version it seems, even though I prefer the design and leak detector replacement setup of the UWT version.
Will any of the existing profiles, such as YS-D1, work for the 110a?